Fair price for skeg repair ??

[moparlvr4406]

missing about 4" of my skeg....bought it like that
been pricing around on the service and seems to vary alot.
just wondering if anyone knew the going rate in your area
:huh:

 

[sweet revenge]

Just had one repaired, cost 120.00 came out like new. Make sure they keep wet towels on the drive so you don't burn up the seals. Good luck

 

[Hellman Huddle]

You can always DIY and buy the bolt on skeg guard if you are not worried about appearance. They will run between $50-$100. If you can get $120 stated below I would go that way.

 

[comsnark]

I had anticavitation plates welded up for $120 a drive last year. Yes. .. I lost a piece from BOTH drives.

 

[moparlvr4406]

I think after some further research I am going to try a DIY protector kit
still got plenty left to attach to according to the install instructions
thanks for the input guys :thumbsup:

 

[Lazy Daze]

Not a good idea to use those. A skeg is designed to break off at the correct spot so as not to completely ruin the lower leg. If you use one of those bolt-on skeg repair kit, and hit something, you have a good chance of causing the skeg to break off close to the gear housing - which basically makes it unrepairable. Which means that $50 you saved now, will cost much, MUCH, more later.

 

[moparlvr4406]

the one I was looking at was installed with an adhesive not bolts.
there are a couple

http://skegprotector.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7 this one is a little pricey

the other is made by Blackfin

any input on these ??
I see your point about weakening the housing higher up though.

 

[Trucky]

Apparently the broken skeg happens a lot around here. My boat shop has a guy who welds a piece back on, grinds it down and paints for $60. Mine came back looking like new. The stainless prop cost $75 to get it smacked back into shape. I know one spot in Douglas Lake I won't be going near again.

 

[Lazy Daze]

It's not so much about weakening the skeg (although to some extent, I suppose it does) as it is providing a fixed breaking point. In other words, even if you strike something on the lower tip of the replacement skeg, the impact is still transferred up to a higher point and that is where it will likely break off.

I can't offer much comment on the glued on ones - I didn't even know they existed. But, it sounds like it would cause the same problems as it's made out of very hard materials (harder than the aluminum underneath, anyways).

I see you're in Indiana so I assume you'll be doing a winterization. Suggestion: Run the boat the way it is the rest of the season and get it fixed in the offseason... Will you be pulling the lower unit to do an impeller change, anyways?

 

[moparlvr4406]

that was in my plan ....just trying to keep this craft on a budget but don't wish to shortcut anyting
I see your point about raising the weak point higher .

 

[Hellman Huddle]

:thumbsup:

Not a good idea to use those. A skeg is designed to break off at the correct spot so as not to completely ruin the lower leg. If you use one of those bolt-on skeg repair kit, and hit something, you have a good chance of causing the skeg to break off close to the gear housing - which basically makes it unrepairable. Which means that $50 you saved now, will cost much, MUCH, more later.

Good Point

 

[Westie]

The other thing with the ones that slip on to the skeg is they collect water and don't drain. When I bought my previous boat it had on a skeg guard and I took it off and had it properly fixed. Think I paid around $120 and it looked like new.