Forward Hatch Lift Supports SR 215

[FiremistSLK]

The PO told me the forward hatch on my SR 215 ec had not been opened for as long as he owned the boat (10 years). The knobs that are used to tighten down on the lift arms so the hatch can be placed in the partially open position are frozen in the loosened position (at least the hatch can be opened)! I applied WD 40 on them and let them stand for a few days.... it did not loosen these knobs! Any suggestions on how I can free them? I tried to remove the entire lift arm for a better soaking in WD-40, or to replace them, but they appear to be attached to the hatch frame with rivets! Has anyone removed the lift arms on a hatch?

 

[Lazy Daze]

WD40 doesn't do much. Try PB Blaster - if that doesn't work, try 30% vinegar (get it at HD). Try tightening and loosening - back and forth. You might have to get rough. I believe you can... break off the plastic knob, then cut-off the head of the screw inside the knob, theb double-nut the stud - that will give you more leverage.

 

[Little Ducky]

https://www.taylormadeproducts.com/products/flags-and-deck-hardware/ultra-iii-hatches

I need to rehab my hatch as well.

Above is a link to some spare parts.

 

[FiremistSLK]

Hey Little Ducky... THANKS! I couldn't find this web page for parts. I'll be buying some parts if I destroy the arms while trying to loosen them up.
JOHN

 

[Little Ducky]

Hey Little Ducky... THANKS! I couldn't find this web page for parts. I'll be buying some parts if I destroy the arms while trying to loosen them up.
JOHN

Let us know how it goes.

 

[FiremistSLK]

OK Will do!

 

[FiremistSLK]

OK.... Got one out. It was stripped! New one is just $10 or so but $15 shipping! Hummm.. got to come up with a plan "B"

 

[Lazy Daze]

Couple thoughts...

-- Don't waste your time for $15.
-- It's probably a 1/4-20 thread? You can get those at hardware stores.
-- Chase the threads with a die.

 

[Little Ducky]

Take it to a local hardware store and see if they have something similar.

 

[FiremistSLK]

Yup.... that's a good plan "B" you guys.... As for the other knob... the stud looks like it is a press fit into the plastic knob, and the stud is turning within the knob. So... Gonna cut the knob off the stud, turn the stud out with a pair of vise grips, and then go to local hardware to see if they have something I can use as a knob. Thanks all for the input.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Yup.... that's a good plan "B" you guys.... As for the other knob... the stud looks like it is a press fit into the plastic knob, and the stud is turning within the knob. So... Gonna cut the knob off the stud, turn the stud out with a pair of vise grips, and then go to local hardware to see if they have something I can use as a knob. Thanks all for the input.

Yup, like I mentioned above. If you're worried about the vise grips slipping (and damaging the threads), do the double nut method. It might be a regular screw head underneath - so you might get enough torque on it that way if you push hard.

 

[ttmott]

https://www.mcmaster.com/knobs/

 

[FiremistSLK]

Holy smokes, ttmott..... I have a Grainger supply pick-up location about 5 miles from my house! They also have the same selection of knobs that will work for my hatch lifts. And....Get this.... $1.54 each! Ha Ha .... $20 bucks from Taylor Made. Bite me!!! Thanks for the reminder of the hardware available from McMaster and Grainger.

 

[FiremistSLK]

Here's the stud with the plastic knob cut off. The threads are 1/4-28 Fine. I found a pack of 4 with "T" handles for 11.00 on e-bay. I'll chase the threads with a 1/4-28 tap and Wa-La... Back in business for $11.00...