Fresh water -vs- Salt water on 280 DA purchase

[dpvandy01]

Looking for my 280 Sundancer 2001 to 2003 (humble firefighter's salary keeps me closer to the 2001 range) Thoughts on issues caused by a previously salt water boat? It'll be a fresh water boat (well OHIO RIVER FRESH) when I use it but does previous salt water experience hurt the outdrive and engine to the point where a good deal is not such a good deal. Marine survey and all other precautions taken, naturally.

 

[estebanj]

A factor will be whether boat was kept in the water or dry rack. I/Os and wet slips are not a good mix, even more so with B3 drives.

Also, whether engine(s) are RWC or FWC. If FWC, still do a good inspection/survey of risers/elbows and heat exchanger as these are still RWC on a FWC engine.

I wouldn't discard a salt water boat, but I would have a more thorough survey done, particularly on a 7 year old boat.

Esteban

 

[wickeral]

The environment that the boat comes from is important but not dictatorial. And, don't be discouraged with the amount of bad publicity the Bravo III endures. B-III are Rock Solid if they are properly cared for and you install a Drive Shower. Use nothing but Mercruiser High Performance Lower End Gear Lubricant. I prefer to buy a fresh water boat, but if it has a "Closed Cooling" system that is a Plus. You need to see all maintenance receipts and original purchase documents. If the seller can't provide them take a walk. A good deal on a boat can be very expensive.
And any newly purchased boat should have the Raw Water Pump Impeller replaced immediately. If you have access to an IR Gun, (Heat Sensor with Digital Readout). record the Manifold and Riser Temps. and periodically check them. The reasoning is to avoid failure if you check them and see a higher Temp. Al W.