fuel level sender adjustment.....

[CliffA]

i replaced the fuel tank in my boat several weeks ago....it came with a new fuel level sender installed....i have noticed when i fill the tank the fuel gauge reads less than full.....from what i have determined from subsequent fill-ups and gauge readings the gauge is reading around 1/8 - 1/4 tank too low....can the fuel level sender be adjusted?.....is it as simple as bending the float arm one way or another?....if the gauge is reading too low would i bend the float arm up or down to make the adjustment?...i still have the sender that was in my old tank....the fuel gauge always showed the correct fuel level reading with it....i suppose i could just use the old sender in the new tank, but i would really like to use the new sender if possible....

thanks....

cliff

 

[SloBurn]

If you're going to bend it, bend it down. This would raise the indicator as the arm would need to float higher for the same amount of fuel. Be sure to use a new gasket, if you're gonna remove and re-install! I would just live with it, as my gauge never seems to read full either and I don't care until it gets low.

 

[CliffA]

If you're going to bend it, bend it down. This would raise the indicator as the arm would need to float higher for the same amount of fuel. Be sure to use a new gasket, if you're gonna remove and re-install! I would just live with it, as my gauge never seems to read full either and I don't care until it gets low.

thanks for the reply......i think the gasket is made of something like nitrile so it may be OK to use again as long as it is not damaged when i remove the sender....i could just live with the gauge not reading right but knowing me it would bug me everytime we use the boat...some things i am just 'anal' about......i just like things to work like they are supposed to...i did just spend several hundred $$ on the new tank so i really should not have to settle for something not being right with it.....i thought about just comparing the old and new senders side by side to see if the angle of the float arms are obviously different when both are hanging all the way down...if there is a difference i can bend the float arm on the new sender to match the float arm on the old sender....this should be a good starting point......

cliff

 

[ZZ13]

My recommendation is to spend $80 or so on a puck style flexi-sender from Royce Industries and ditch that hinged thing.

 

[CJ Martin]

I second ZZ13's suggestion. I replaced both of my senders with the Royce ones a couple of years ago. They work great.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[hack4alivin]

I second ZZ13's suggestion. I replaced both of my senders with the Royce ones a couple of years ago. They work great.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Do you have a model number and how hard is it to get to the port side tank? Is the sender under the little screw out cover in the floor under the port side helm seat? I replaced the starboard side two seasons ago, but I used the OEM replacement. I would like something better.

 

[KC_Sundancer]

I have been using the puck style, but WEMA brand, in our 270DA.
WEMA USA stainless steel unit.
Been very happy with it's performance, much more accurate. :thumbsup:

http://www.wemausa.com/sensors/level-FuelWater.shtml#.Ufpb7pLVA_c

 

[CliffA]

My recommendation is to spend $80 or so on a puck style flexi-sender from Royce Industries and ditch that hinged thing.

i didn't even know these were available....thanks for the info....do you just tell Royce how long you need the float down pipe to be to match you tank?

cliff

 

[ZZ13]

i didn't even know these were available....thanks for the info....do you just tell Royce how long you need the float down pipe to be to match you tank?

cliff

Others who own my model had done it before so I knew I needed a 20" sender. But just measure from the top of the tanks where the sender mounts to the bottom of the tank to get your size.

 

[ZZ13]

Do you have a model number and how hard is it to get to the port side tank? Is the sender under the little screw out cover in the floor under the port side helm seat? I replaced the starboard side two seasons ago, but I used the OEM replacement. I would like something better.

I did it on a 300DA and I got my port side in by cutting the foam insulation directly above it, pushing it up into that hole and then down into the tank. Not sure about a 320DA. The part number you buy will be based on the height of your tank.

 

[KC_Sundancer]

i didn't even know these were available....thanks for the info....do you just tell Royce how long you need the float down pipe to be to match you tank?

cliff

Their (WEMA) suggestion on sizing: Measure your tank from the gasket mounting surface to the bottom and subtract 1/2 inch. I would then select the next shorter size available if not an even 1/2 inch dimension.

 

[Gunn]

Those same suggestions are applicable to the Royce senders too. I bought the Royce sender for my 280DA last season and it does very well. They are an inexpensive upgrade too.

I was waffling on which size to buy as I was between two sizes. I took the advice mentioned above to get the next shorter size. What that left me with was that my gauge will show E well before I am actually empty. But I consider that my reserve capacity anyway.

 

[CliffA]

Those same suggestions are applicable to the Royce senders too. I bought the Royce sender for my 280DA last season and it does very well. They are an inexpensive upgrade too.

I was waffling on which size to buy as I was between two sizes. I took the advice mentioned above to get the next shorter size. What that left me with was that my gauge will show E well before I am actually empty. But I consider that my reserve capacity anyway.

i agree with the 'reserve' capacity idea.....i rearely let the level get below 1/4 tank anyway before topping off but it would be nice to have a better idea of the correct fuel level...

cliff

 

[CJ Martin]

Do you have a model number and how hard is it to get to the port side tank? Is the sender under the little screw out cover in the floor under the port side helm seat? I replaced the starboard side two seasons ago, but I used the OEM replacement. I would like something better.

I don't have a model number...best thing to do is measure the tank height...be advised the 320DA tanks are different heights (found that out the hard way, fortunately Defender has a great return policy).

Access to the port side tank sender is non existent from the factory. The fix is a bit scary but straightforward. I used a large hole saw to cut an access hole under the port side lounger directly above the sender. Figuring out where exactly to drill was the hard part. I then installed a screw in deckplate for future access and to cover the hole. A 4" hole properly located is all you will need. Looks factory. The deck is plenty thick...

-CJ

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[jrock1062]

I installed Garmin GFS-10 meters several years ago, Mine communicate on my NMEA-2000 network. It tells me how much fuel I am using how much is still on the boat and how far I can travel. It has saved me quite as bit of money by keeping me in the sweet spot I reccomend it

 

[Paladin]

I just bought a Moeller like the one pictured above. They said they like an inch difference between the length of the reed sensor and the depth of the tank. I first was going to go half inch, but then I said oh well I'll go a full inch and just have more gas in the tank when it says empty. They say steel or aluminum tanks can go a half inch, but plastic they want a full inch for flex.
As long as you're going to replace it anyway, just take off your old one, measure the depth of the tank with a tape measure, the real depth inside, then slap it back together until you put in your new sensor. The reason that is a good idea is some tanks, like mine, have a curve or bulge inside, running the length of the tank which I didn't know about until I was feeling around the actual bottom with a stick, the first time I took the old one out to measure. That way I was really sure that the depth was 13 and 3/16ths, inside measurement. Like I said I could have special ordered a 12.5 inch, but just went with a 12 incher and call it good.

 

[CliffA]

I just bought a Moeller like the one pictured above. They said they like an inch difference between the length of the reed sensor and the depth of the tank. I first was going to go half inch, but then I said oh well I'll go a full inch and just have more gas in the tank when it says empty. They say steel or aluminum tanks can go a half inch, but plastic they want a full inch for flex.
As long as you're going to replace it anyway, just take off your old one, measure the depth of the tank with a tape measure, the real depth inside, then slap it back together until you put in your new sensor. The reason that is a good idea is some tanks, like mine, have a curve or bulge inside, running the length of the tank which I didn't know about until I was feeling around the actual bottom with a stick, the first time I took the old one out to measure. That way I was really sure that the depth was 13 and 3/16ths, inside measurement. Like I said I could have special ordered a 12.5 inch, but just went with a 12 incher and call it good.

thanks for the advise....i actually have the 'luxury' of having a 'spare' fuel tank (complete with two unwanted small holes :smt021 ) to get the measurements from.....i did notice on the on-line install instructions for the WEMA sender they state to allow a 1" clearance from the bottom of the sender tube to the bottom of the tank....my tank does have angled bottom side corners that may come into play so i will have to consider that when making my measurements....

cliff