Going all chain

I bought G4 High Test, 5/16, Hot Galv from peerless chain. It has performed well for 5 season now.

https://www.peerlesschain.com/products/ACCO-Windlass-Chains/

 

The grade & size should probably match what is indicated in your parts manual as that matches with what the windlass can handle and is recommended for your boat. Typically the links are stamped G4 or similar. I had great results and pricing from 1st-chainsupply.com . They have a dated but informative reference section on their website.

 

I would take it a step farther and try and get a sample long enough to test run through the windlass Gypsy. A group of my slip neighbors went in on a group buy of a barrel of chain a couple of years ago. Several of them ended up with chain they couldn’t use and couldn’t return. I’ll also relate my own experience buying ½” shackles (marked ½” on the shackle) from a store belonging to a major hardware chain (not Lowe’s or HD) that actually only measured ⅜”.

For anyone using chain I’d also recommend downloading a copy of the NACM (National Association of Chain Manufacturers) specification on welded chain from NACM.info.

 

You are asking the right question. Yes, you can just add it. Yes, you are adding a weak link since the connecting links don't have an equivalent rating as the chain. What you pay attention to is the WLL (working load limit). It may be good enough but my OCD ass made me replace it all. Also pay attention to the WLL of the shackles. I went with the alloy but I not sure that was best due to dissimilar metals. It was good enough for Lake Lanier.

This is what I put on my 2000 410DA, it's also what would be called for on my 550 DA. :
https://www.1st-chainsupply.com/chain/g40_windlass_chain.htm#5/16

Regarding quality, I knew if it was ACCO, it was good enough for me.

 

I joined my new chain the existing 30' like you are suggesting and it has held up well. I used something like this:
https://www.mcmaster.com/chain-links/hammer-close-connecting-links-not-for-lifting/
It rolls through the windless just fine.

 

While you are looking at this, be mindful of your swivel or shackles. Most of the time they are the weakest link. I found out the hard way and had to buy a new anchor....

Bennett

 

Looks like lots of options out there. When I went all-chain last summer Defender Marine was the lowest delivered cost I could find for 5/16" G4.

 

Dean - Go to defender - wait for the sale to buy it - I wouldn't join it, just go all chain and be done with it - look into a chain lock and/or bridle

 

Stee6043 brings up a very important point, its the delivered cost. Shipping 250lbs of chain isnt easy, and where it will be delivered is an issue as well.

I looked into having it delivered to the shop at my marina, as they have a truck delivery dock and a forklift.

 

I have 175ft of chain And I put 200 feet of rode behind it. I’ve never use the line but it’s there if I need it.

 

Also, make sure you keep some rope on that set up. There seems to always be a day when it must be cut in order to save the boat. I watched this past summer a ferry hook a fishermans chain and pull the boat until it hit a piling on the entrance to Baldhead Island. The boat (being dragged) finally got free when the rode was cut by the ferries props.

 

I have all chain on my 390MY love it, the only question is should I be carrying bolt cutters to cut it in case the anchor becomes fouled?

 

I did exactly what you are doing about 8 years ago. I got a screaming deal on 175ft of new G4 chain from a Sea Ray dealer that swapped out a new boats chain for a longer one. I think it was $150 if I recall.

I also don't anchor in more than 30 feet, normally more like 10 to 15.

I wanted to add to the end of my existing 200ft of 5/8 3-strand (with 25ft of chain spliced). I didn't want to lose teh 25ft and was too lazy to retie the chain to rode splice, so I bought a shackle to join the old chain to the new. This type of shackle. I wanted it to be strong so it was probably oversize:


Well that worked until I had to run out the full chain one time so the rode was out. Bringing it back in, when that shackle came up to the windlass it "wacked" the Progress 1 finger, bending the finger post and jammed. It made such a loud bang I knew right away what the issue was.

One of those "do it right" lessons learned. I took off the 25 ft of chain, used it for extra bite for my stern anchor. After a couple tries, I got the chain splice done right. The shackle is in my spare hardware bin. I will use it for something.

 

Dean, I have 125' 5/16" chain and another 125' 5/8" nylon backing. If you've ever done an eye splice, it's really not much harder to do a chain to 3 strand splice. However, there are a couple different schools of thought on the splice.
Some splices use all three strands through the chain link, with one passing through in one direction and two passing thru the opposite, for full strength, but the splice is a slightly larger diameter than the original line.
Others only put 2 through the chain and lay the strands back into the missing gap from the 3rd removed strand to reduce the diameter of the spliced section so it passes through your windlass easier. Obviously you weaken the breaking strength if only 2 strands, but it makes for a more compact splice, less likely to jam.

 

I bought from Marine Now.

https://www.marinenow.com/anchor-chain/