Good Windlass motor

[wileecoyote]

I am having issues with my Good Windlass. It's a CFD freefall model. I've checked voltages/ solenoids, cleaned and checked ground. It worked Sat morn and then Sat evening, just clicked. The motor never spins. Output voltage to the motor is low when solenoid is actuated. I'm assuming motor is drawing it down. I had the solenoids installed with the lugs on the bottom, which according to the installation sheet is wrong. I flipped them and cleaned all the wiring. Checked breaker and battery voltage/connection, all OK. I'm thinking all I have left is the motor. Here's the question: How do I remove the motor? Do I have to take the whole windlass off? I don't see any mounting bolts from the bottom, so I assume you have to remove something from the top. Anyone done this? I would ask Good, but I'm guessing they want you to send it back to be rebuilt by them.

 

[J Levine]

This is a great company to work with, I would give them a call.

 

[fwebster]

Well, sending the complete windlass to Good is exactly what you need to do.

You have diagnosed your problem correctly..the motor is bad, most likely the windings open or shorted. The reason you need to send it back to Good is that there is an upgrade motor for the CFD now. It is a 4 pole instead of a 2 pole motor, has more torque and allows a different gear set. All that translated into a much faster line retreival with greater pulling power. You will also get a new sealed solenoid pack so your worrys about your solenoids will be over.

Lastly, by now your line handling parts inside the windlass are worn . Good rebuild service replaces all those parts and reseals the gearbox with new gear lube.

Good is a superb company to work with ......I sent mine to them last summer on a Monday and got it back by UPS on Friday of the same week....in fact, I send mine to them every 5 years for service whether or not anything is wrong with it.

 

[Skeetobite]

I had the same issue but opted to upgrade when sending mine in to Good. They have a rope/chain plug and play upgrade kit for the CFD and gave me a sizable credit for my old unit, which made it worthwhile.

 

[tobnpr]

I installed their new F850 rope/chain windlass a couple of years ago, should you decide to upgrade it's an easy switch. They have a starboard mounting plate that also functions to close off the mounting holes of the old style model.

 

[wileecoyote]

I wasn't sure that an $800 repair bill right now for the windlass. I was just hoping to get the motor out and have it fone through and repaired. I have other things I'm working on right now(all the time!) I will call them and see what my options are. Right now dumping the anchor by hand is a pain. My bow roller pulpit is bent over as well. My guess is the PO ran into something. Don't know if it is easy enough to work with to be able to straighten it up or not. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[giff1]

Always good service from Good Windlass They are at all the Maryland and Eastcoast boat shows and give great info. Good manufactured all the windlasses for Sea Ray of the 80's, also the roller pulpit. Good news is Good still sells the same roller pulpit. Go to their website for info and price.

 

[fwebster]

I spoke with the Good owner a few months ago and asked why Good wasn't on the newer Sea Rays. His answer was "We hate it, they were a very good customer of ours, but Sea Ray insisted on lower prices and we couldn't produce a windlass we were willing to stand behind for the price they were willing to pay."

Based on the number of windlass problems we see posted on newer boats, I guess Sea Ray is getting what they paid for.

 

[wileecoyote]

I spoke with the Good owner a few months ago and asked why Good wasn't on the newer Sea Rays. His answer was "We hate it, they were a very good customer of ours, but Sea Ray insisted on lower prices and we couldn't produce a windlass we were willing to stand behind for the price they were willing to pay."

Based on the number of windlass problems we see posted on newer boats, I guess Sea Ray is getting what they paid for.

I searched under windlass, because Good came up with just about every thread, and All I got was a bunch of Lofrans questions. I know they are "good" just by reading posts of all the owners. You all may have talked me into just getting the whole thing upgraded, to include new line. I'll call them in a while.

 

[gerryb]

Not to steal the thread, but I have a LoFranz unit on mine that has always been somewhat unreliable. It is built in Italy but the US company in charge of service and Support in the US is IMTRA, out of MASS. IMTRA has always been easy to work with. They are responsive, answer the phones and provide great service including inexpensive/free repairs and credit towards other motors.

 

[tobnpr]

I searched under windlass, because Good came up with just about every thread, and All I got was a bunch of Lofrans questions. I know they are "good" just by reading posts of all the owners. You all may have talked me into just getting the whole thing upgraded, to include new line. I'll call them in a while.

If you go that route, you might consider questioning them on their rode packages.
They REQUIRE you use their rope/chain, or they will void the warranty.
To be honest, I've been less than happy with that product. Even with an expensive SS swivel @ the anchor, their 3-strand rode hockles like hell. I'm considering going to 8-plait even though my line's like new. Also- I'm learning the hard way- I find that the 10' of chain isn't enough because I use a lightweight Fortress anchor. There needs to be substantial weight (resistance) on the line or the gypsy just spins. With just 10' of chain, and the aluminum anchor- it ain't enough. Yesterday I had to back down while in shallow water just to keep the anchor line tight enough to get it to grab the gypsy. I'm going to have to learn to do a rope/chain splice for a windlass so I can add more chain, or go back to a heavier galvanized anchor. FWIW...

 

[wileecoyote]

I called, but didn't get through. I was going to leave a message, but I don't have my serial number here with me so I will try to call back when I get home. You guys are really throwing me with all the windlass talk, gypsys and such. TOBNPR, I had to look up hockle, I'm assuming you mean:
To damage cordage by twisting against the lay.
Another definition is:

1. (Geordie, vulgar) spit, spittle

Thats what I wanted to do when I just got clicks the other day!

 

[fwebster]

The last 2 Good rodes I bought were pretty bad to hockle, kink, twist, or whatever you choose to call it. It took a couple of times after the line got wet and stretched, but it might help if you use Good method for removing the twists. I did it a couple of times and now my line flakes in t he locker without kinks.

 

[wileecoyote]

Well, I called yesterday and today and get the same message to leave my name and number and they would back with me. I still haven't heard from them, so I decided to take a look at things. I removed the motor just to check it, works fine in both directions:smt101
SO, I went up top and started to disassemble. Fairly simple actually. After and hour or so of cleaning out all the gear lube and cleaning them I spun the spiral shaft spun by motor and tried to see why it worked now. I finally came to a spot and it came to a halt. Here's what I found:

I picked it out with a small pick and inspected the rest of the gears. Cleaned up one spot with a small file and cleaned out the particles with brakeclean. Now, here's the fun part, where did it come from? I only see one small bearing with balls this small and it is on the shaft, all of them are there and the plastic cage is undamaged:huh: The other 2 bearing associated with the shaft are needle bearing, and the gears run on much larger balls. This is the only piece of anything I can find anywhere. So I went ahead and filled back to fill point with synthetic gear lube, and cleaned and sealed with anaerobic sealer. I will let it set up until tomorrow and see what happens. I figure the longer I can keep it going, the longer I can prolong replacement. I just cannot see any signs of looseness or trace of metal in fluid, or grinding that would point me to any of the bearings. I will tell you how it goes. I know whats coming, It came from somewhere and I'm living on borrowed time, ans it will break when I need it most, but I'm willing to take a chance!

 

[giff1]

Keep trying to contact Good. They do have a small office crew that has been known to go fishing for a day or two. Mornings are a good time to call,I've ordered parts this year and received them in one or two days.

 

[wileecoyote]

Hopefully there will be no need to now. As far as I'm concerned, I will find out tomorrow if she's good to go. If she cranks, it's off the too do list.

 

[rondds]

I spoke with Mr. Good (?) at a little boat show here in NJ last fall. They had a nice deal on the all-line rode package, which is what Mark (Wileecoyote) and I both have. I don't recall the price b/c I wasn't in the market. I asked him about the need to use THEIR line specifically. He said it really isn't necessary any good 5/8" line would do. I thought maybe their line was stiffer so the jaws would engage it better. he said nope. Real honest and straight-forward guy.

My roller was bent to starboard when I bought this boat. Probably the third time I tried to dock her in my bow-in slip, I hit the piling and bent it back, completely accidentally. Couldn't have done that if I tried!

 

[wileecoyote]

I spoke with Mr. Good (?) at a little boat show here in NJ last fall. They had a nice deal on the all-line rode package, which is what Mark (Wileecoyote) and I both have. I don't recall the price b/c I wasn't in the market. I asked him about the need to use THEIR line specifically. He said it really isn't necessary any good 5/8" line would do. I thought maybe their line was stiffer so the jaws would engage it better. he said nope. Real honest and straight-forward guy.

My roller was bent to starboard when I bought this boat. Probably the third time I tried to dock her in my bow-in slip, I hit the piling and bent it back, completely accidentally. Couldn't have done that if I tried!

You want to come down and fix mine? It is bent to SB as well, I'm wondering if there is any way I will be able to bend it back straight. The tips don't look to be that stiff, so we'll see. Ron, send me some pics and instructions for adding the small bit of chain to the end. You need to add your blog to your sig. I can't find the damn thing!

 

[rondds]

Mark
To add chain, just measure from the end of the shank of your anchor to the bit on the windlass. Get a length of the fattest heaviest chain you can buy and put it on. YOu have to allow for the eye splice length as well b/c the jaws of the windlass will chew the splice up if the splice enters the hole. I don't remember what size my chain was but it was not in stock at west marine. I special ordered 2 feet and cut a few links off at home with a hack saw (they only cut to the nearest foot).