Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
I want to know what your wire path and subsequent components that you needed to properly install a windlass.
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Mine was an Ebay Quick horizontal and it included everything but the cables and foot switches (relay, breaker, helm switch). I never added the foot switches and haven't found a need for them since Renee can command the helm switch by vocal remote.
Yes, I doubt that you'll find that much copper installed if not needed. I installed one on my boat and it isn't a bad project if broken up in phases since its a little time-consuming to pull off in one weekend. Plan it well, and run the wires first. Power and ground need to come from the battery, but the switch wires need to join them at the helm as you make your way forward.
A friend with a '95 250DA removed his OEM anchor locker door on the deck (mine did not have this) and replaced it with a heavy King Starboard door to which the windlass was mounted. This allowed him to easily remove the windlass later.
If you replace your ugly glass and chrome cabin anchor locker door with lightly smoked polycarbonate, and wire some LEDs into the windlass power you can illuminate the anchor locker during windlass use to easily monitor the feed in or out. :thumbsup: This helps with the minimal drop you have on smaller boats that can cause feed problems occasionally.
On my 260 - the installation was really great. I never had a problem with it. The wiring ran behind the microwave and such up to the foredeck. The windlass always worked great - never bent the spring arm mechanism.
Todd...call or email Sea Ray with your HIN number...and they can tell you is your boat was built the the system prewired. But I don't think they prewire very many.
Yes, my old 250 has the anchor locker access from the cabin instead of from the deck.Well I don't have the glass and chrome anchor locker. It's a nice fiberglass hatch and the hawse pipe is there. I anticipate replacing the hawse pipe and installing the windlass in it's place.
I am able to get the wire through work at a discount so that will help, but thanks for that tip.You're gonna need some pretty expensive wire for that job. Suggest you check these guys out: http://bestboatwire.com/ Great source for marine-grade wire and connectors and prices are typically about half of Anchor brand stuff.
Yes, my old 250 has the anchor locker access from the cabin instead of from the deck.
The reason that my '95 250DA friend replaced the fiberglass deck anchor locker cover with the new starboard cover was not only to preserve the original part but to provide a more solid mounting for the windlass.