Has Anyone added a windlass to their '99-04 260DA?

Nehalennia

Well-Known Member
Aug 22, 2007
10,006
Marysville, WA
Boat Info
2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
Engines
Twin 350 MAG V-drives
I want to know what your wire path and subsequent components that you needed to properly install a windlass.
 
sometimes if its a factory option the power and ground wires will be in the anchor locker already, but I dont think you will get so lucky.

If you buy a better quality windless kit it normally comes with everything but power and ground cables. Obviously does not come with any hardware for the deck such as davit,roller, anchor, line, etc..
Wires are usually routed along the starboard side behind the hull and deck flange, but I could be mistaken on that one for your boat.
 
Mine was an Ebay Quick horizontal and it included everything but the cables and foot switches (relay, breaker, helm switch). I never added the foot switches and haven't found a need for them since Renee can command the helm switch by vocal remote.

Yes, I doubt that you'll find that much copper installed if not needed. I installed one on my boat and it isn't a bad project if broken up in phases since its a little time-consuming to pull off in one weekend. Plan it well, and run the wires first. Power and ground need to come from the battery, but the switch wires need to join them at the helm as you make your way forward.

A friend with a '95 250DA removed his OEM anchor locker door on the deck (mine did not have this) and replaced it with a heavy King Starboard door to which the windlass was mounted. This allowed him to easily remove the windlass later.

If you replace your ugly glass and chrome cabin anchor locker door with lightly smoked polycarbonate, and wire some LEDs into the windlass power you can illuminate the anchor locker during windlass use to easily monitor the feed in or out. :thumbsup: This helps with the minimal drop you have on smaller boats that can cause feed problems occasionally.
 
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Mine was an Ebay Quick horizontal and it included everything but the cables and foot switches (relay, breaker, helm switch). I never added the foot switches and haven't found a need for them since Renee can command the helm switch by vocal remote.

Yes, I doubt that you'll find that much copper installed if not needed. I installed one on my boat and it isn't a bad project if broken up in phases since its a little time-consuming to pull off in one weekend. Plan it well, and run the wires first. Power and ground need to come from the battery, but the switch wires need to join them at the helm as you make your way forward.

A friend with a '95 250DA removed his OEM anchor locker door on the deck (mine did not have this) and replaced it with a heavy King Starboard door to which the windlass was mounted. This allowed him to easily remove the windlass later.

If you replace your ugly glass and chrome cabin anchor locker door with lightly smoked polycarbonate, and wire some LEDs into the windlass power you can illuminate the anchor locker during windlass use to easily monitor the feed in or out. :thumbsup: This helps with the minimal drop you have on smaller boats that can cause feed problems occasionally.

Well I don't have the glass and chrome anchor locker. It's a nice fiberglass hatch and the hawse pipe is there. I anticipate replacing the hawse pipe and installing the windlass in it's place.
 
On my 260 - the installation was really great. I never had a problem with it. The wiring ran behind the microwave and such up to the foredeck. The windlass always worked great - never bent the spring arm mechanism.
 
On my 260 - the installation was really great. I never had a problem with it. The wiring ran behind the microwave and such up to the foredeck. The windlass always worked great - never bent the spring arm mechanism.

Did you make the cable run yourself or were you one of the lucky ones with it prewired?
 
Todd...call or email Sea Ray with your HIN number...and they can tell you is your boat was built the the system prewired. But I don't think they prewire very many.
 
Todd...call or email Sea Ray with your HIN number...and they can tell you is your boat was built the the system prewired. But I don't think they prewire very many.

Well there are not wires in the Anchor locker so I'm assuming it's not pre-wired.
I'll run it if I decide to make this a winter project. I was just curious if other last model year owners had done it and was curious which models, wire run path, etc. were any good.
 
Mine was factory installed. So, I was real lucky. I helped a friend on a 2855 Bayliner. It wasn't too bad. The only issue was the hawse pipe on the Bayliner was cut real close to the bulkhead. But on the 260 it wasn't too bad running wires on that backside. My 260 didn't have a microwave.
 
You're gonna need some pretty expensive wire for that job. Suggest you check these guys out: http://bestboatwire.com/ Great source for marine-grade wire and connectors and prices are typically about half of Anchor brand stuff.
 
Well I don't have the glass and chrome anchor locker. It's a nice fiberglass hatch and the hawse pipe is there. I anticipate replacing the hawse pipe and installing the windlass in it's place.
Yes, my old 250 has the anchor locker access from the cabin instead of from the deck.

The reason that my '95 250DA friend replaced the fiberglass deck anchor locker cover with the new starboard cover was not only to preserve the original part but to provide a more solid mounting for the windlass.
 
You're gonna need some pretty expensive wire for that job. Suggest you check these guys out: http://bestboatwire.com/ Great source for marine-grade wire and connectors and prices are typically about half of Anchor brand stuff.
I am able to get the wire through work at a discount so that will help, but thanks for that tip.

Yes, my old 250 has the anchor locker access from the cabin instead of from the deck.

The reason that my '95 250DA friend replaced the fiberglass deck anchor locker cover with the new starboard cover was not only to preserve the original part but to provide a more solid mounting for the windlass.

That's why I was trying to narrow it down by boat Model, because there are so many potential configurations.
 
What brand of windlass are you thinking of adding? Would the owners manual show the wiring path?
 
Todd, Sea Ray's online parts manual shows the windlass pretty well, and the wiring diagrams show the cable routing. If you're thinking about adding the Lofrans windlass, I can take a couple of pictures of my installation (factory, AFAIK), although the %$#*& who repaired the motor left the anchor locker wiring a mess.
 

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