Holding tank level indicator

R

rembrandt

New Member
Jul 17, 2009
8
Parker, Colorado
Boat Info
2008 210 Fission
Engines
350 Mag Bravo III
I have a 1994 290 Sundancer equipped with a macerator option operated by a key located in the head. However the holding tank level indicator doesn't work. All the wiring seems to be OK. Assuming I have power to the unit, is it possible that the circuit board is shot and if it is where could I purchase a new one. :smt100:smt100
 
When you say it doesn't work do you mean that the "power" light doesn't come up or it's on but level indicator doesn't come up?
 
Time to get your hands dirty!!! I have to do the same thing this fall. Take the top off of the holding tank where the wires go in and start to clean it out and check the floats operation. Not something I am looking forward to, but it needs to be done. Good luck!
 
How about filling it with water and flushing it a few times.

At least it will clean things up a bit if you end up having to clean the sender.

Maybe you will get lucky and it will start to register again.
 
I would start by doing what 390pi had suggested. Then, I've herd people using ice cubes dropping them in the holding tank and going for a ride. This loosens things does extra cleaning. Then do the pumpout and see if it works. If you had the boat for a while, then you should know what levels should be displayed.
 
Ice cubes sound like a great idea, but you would have to drop them into the tank through the access hole. RV folks use dishwashing detergent to clean their black tanks. I'd try that first since it's extremely easy to do. You might find out that the lights work but you haven't had the tank full enough. I didn't think mine worked until it got too full! I just flipped the switch to see and BOTH lights were blazing away! OOPS! Now I have to replace the vent filter with some new charcoal! DOH!!
 
Sundancer said:
RV folks use dishwashing detergent to clean their black tanks. I'd try that first since it's extremely easy to do. You might find out that the lights work but you haven't had the tank full enough......
Click to expand...

Along the same lines I think bildge cleaner may do the job. If it keeps the bildge clean it should help with holding tank as well. I also use it in the shower drain once in a while. You would need to allow some time for the solution to work. So, you might want to pour it in, keep use the boat for few days, then do the ice cubes (btw, sundancer is right, you need to put the ice cubes through access hole).
Also, you should know what your tank level indicator usually shows (some boats have different levels). Mine shows only "Empty, 1/2 and Don't Flush". So, anything in between these marks it shows nothing, but the power light.
 
I agree time to get dirty!!! I am currently doing the same thing, take a look at my threads.................

Found the vent line clogged and the floats missing.......

Have fun!!:smt038
 
Bad system in my opinion. I've had 3 SR's with this. All 3 have worked sometimes, but most of the time do not. I think it is due to the toilet paper in many cases.
 
I have different results from Groucho. I think that just like with anything, if we take care of the stuff it'll work. It's very possible for anything to break, but all 3 boats makes me wander if you want to change something in the way you use and maintain the head system.

Here's what I do:
1. I use only toilet paper designed for the system to handle (I get it at local WM). I ask everyone to put minimum amounts and flush more often, if need to use extra paper.
2. When I do pumpout, I always flush the tank with fresh water (usually twice).
3. Finally I add the head treament solution pretty much after every pump out. Any of these will do the job. Last time I've used 6-pack package, which I found very convenient.http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...eId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&ddkey=SiteSearch

I did noticed that paper's texture is slightly different this year compare to what I've use to see, but my method still keeps it going (knock on wood).

Hope this helps.
 
Alex F said:
I have different results from Groucho. I think that just like with anything, if we take care of the stuff it'll work. It's very possible for anything to break, but all 3 boats makes me wander if you want to change something in the way you use and maintain the head system.

Here's what I do:
1. I use only toilet paper designed for the system to handle (I get it at local WM). I ask everyone to put minimum amounts and flush more often, if need to use extra paper.
2. When I do pumpout, I always flush the tank with fresh water (usually twice).
3. Finally I add the head treament solution pretty much after every pump out. Any of these will do the job. Last time I've used 6-pack package, which I found very convenient.http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...eId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&ddkey=SiteSearch

I did noticed that paper's texture is slightly different this year compare to what I've use to see, but my method still keeps it going (knock on wood).

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...


I think your right. I guess I just feel weird asking the occasional guest to use less paper...etc. We pretty much just use it for "liquids" and I do not flush it with clean water each time we have a pumpout. There are other indicators SR could have used as well.
 
I have the same chore ahead of me this fall...sensors are clearly fouled. I tried once during the summer to open the holding tank but could not get the big 'serrated' round cap to budge. I plan to use a strap wrench next attempt. Anyone have advice on how to get the damn thing open? :huh:
 
Alex F said:
I have different results from Groucho. I think that just like with anything, if we take care of the stuff it'll work. It's very possible for anything to break, but all 3 boats makes me wander if you want to change something in the way you use and maintain the head system.

Here's what I do:
1. I use only toilet paper designed for the system to handle (I get it at local WM). I ask everyone to put minimum amounts and flush more often, if need to use extra paper.
2. When I do pumpout, I always flush the tank with fresh water (usually twice).
3. Finally I add the head treament solution pretty much after every pump out. Any of these will do the job. Last time I've used 6-pack package, which I found very convenient.http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...eId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&ddkey=SiteSearch

I did noticed that paper's texture is slightly different this year compare to what I've use to see, but my method still keeps it going (knock on wood).

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...


All good measures, but not very practical is it? Asking the Admiral to use less paper?? I maybe a little crazy but not suicidal…:wow:

Good maintenance for the tank would go much better than less paper.

Has anyone tried this on their black tanks? I have one on my RV and it works great.

28091.jpg
 
I want to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions. Hopefully one or more of them will clear up my problem
 
Groucho said:
Bad system in my opinion. I've had 3 SR's with this. All 3 have worked sometimes, but most of the time do not. I think it is due to the toilet paper in many cases.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Bad System. Use the Correct TP as well.

My Holding Tank gauge is so flakey, that I have to go into the ER to have a look at the real condition of the tank. The gauge is useless. tried all the flushing, Tide, etc. Still Eyeballing the tank itself is the only true guage for me.

With these new vacuum pumps they use at our marinas, the tanks can literaly collapse somewhat when they are empty. Another reason why I am in the ER when they pump. Keeps them from warping my Holding Tank.

Would love to hear some real world fixes.

I may have to get into the mud as well to fix.
 
Last edited:
Uplate said:
A
With these new vacuum pumps they use at our marinas, the tanks can literaly collapse somewhat when they are empty. Another reason why I am in the ER when they pump. Keeps them from warping my Holding Tank.

Would love to hear some real world fixes.
Click to expand...

Does your tank have the "tank relief" built-in? It's a valve - of sorts - that is on the top of the tank and it is there to prevent exactly what you are talking about. If you have it, maybe it's sticking? If not, maybe you can add it.
 
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