leaky B3 swivil pins

[scoflaw]

So... my steering arm pins decide to start leaking in the middle of July. Ordered up all the stuff I need from JR marine. He's telling me I should tear into it ASAP or risk trashing my transom assemblys. Any truth to this? really wanted to wait till the end of the season.

 

[kevin27]

Fix it NOW! If you wait the housing could be damaged and you will never get it to seal again. Replacement will be the only option and would require engine removal. I have pictures and a $4000 reciept for parts if you don't believe me. While you are in there do the water tube repair also. Time wise you are do to start having overheat problems.

 

[kaz911]

So... my steering arm pins decide to start leaking in the middle of July. Ordered up all the stuff I need from JR marine. He's telling me I should tear into it ASAP or risk trashing my transom assemblys. Any truth to this? really wanted to wait till the end of the season.

I just had both my pins replaced. Could you post a picture of where the leak comes from? My leaks was so bad both tops of the assemblies was full of salt crystals.

 

[True North]

I don't know if it matters salt water vs. fresh, but I spoke to a marine mechanic about the same. I discovered I also have steering pin leak and asked if I could wait it out til the end of the season. He said I could, but one point is I don't wet slip my boat. It is only in the water on weekends and vacation weeks (4th of July, Labor day, etc.), so I don't have the constant water dripping on the transom 24/7 and it sits in covered dry storage in between. I have noticed that mine has gotten progressively worse this season, and the mechanic said it could be because I use my boat to troll (fish), and I am using my sterring back and forth motion a lot more than just cruising which uses less back and forth motion. So those are all points to consider, but I am going to hold off until Oct to have the repair done.

On a side note, do most people feel the JR marine fix option is the way to go? I have heard conflicting stories. Keep in mind I was planning on doing other maintenence repair items like hoses, bellows, etc. if I tear it apart????

The other method, do you have to pull the motor or just the lower unit?

Thanks.

 

[kaz911]

I don't know if it matters salt water vs. fresh, but I spoke to a marine mechanic about the same. I discovered I also have steering pin leak and asked if I could wait it out til the end of the season. He said I could, but one point is I don't wet slip my boat. It is only in the water on weekends and vacation weeks (4th of July, Labor day, etc.), so I don't have the constant water dripping on the transom 24/7 and it sits in covered dry storage in between. I have noticed that mine has gotten progressively worse this season, and the mechanic said it could be because I use my boat to troll (fish), and I am using my sterring back and forth motion a lot more than just cruising which uses less back and forth motion. So those are all points to consider, but I am going to hold off until Oct to have the repair done.

On a side note, do most people feel the JR marine fix option is the way to go? I have heard conflicting stories. Keep in mind I was planning on doing other maintenence repair items like hoses, bellows, etc. if I tear it apart????

The other method, do you have to pull the motor or just the lower unit?

Thanks.

Mercruiser actually has a similar approved procedure as the JR Method. And the replacement pins I got from Mercruiser was stainless steel. But I had the engines taken out and did not do the JR method.

 

[scoflaw]

Kevin, what is this water tube repair? I have thru hulls. I have no pics at this time, the water is coming from the steering arm pockets, and started a couple of months ago

 

[Henry Boyd]

I had a water leak on our BIII that we thought was the steering pin as well. However the pin, gimbal ring and associated hardware had all been replaced three years ago. It then turn out that it was from the raw water gooseneck connection. There is a water line that runs up from the drive and attaches to the outer transom ring. The transom ring has a hole bored through it. On the inside of the boat where the outer transom ring comes through the boat transom, there is a mounting point for the gooseneck. It looks very similar to an old stye engine thermostat housing. It is held onto the transom ring with a flange that is attached with two bolts that go into threaded sockets in the transom ring. If this gooseneck which is plastic cracks, or if the mounting surface goes bad, water can spray and because of the location, will look like it is coming from the steering pin. As it turns out in our case the transom ring was shot. Kevin is right on the cost of replacing the transom assembly, although it is closer to $5K here in the Boston area.

Henry

 

[scoflaw]

Seeing this was a fresh water boat and trailered up until I bought it 2 years ago I'm thinking it's not a death sentence. Water coming from steering arm pockets. Which is bad enough this time of year.

 

[Quint4]

deleted

 

[kevin27]

This is the water tube I speak of.This is what the transom assys looked like on the outside. They looked ok and was rack stored.

 

[kevin27]

If your freshwater should be ok till fall. If you have through hull water intakes then dont worry about the water tubes.

 

[scoflaw]

Kevin, that is some ugly damage. Trying to think of a way to head off the water tube,gooseneck corrosion. Since I have thru hulls, I'm thinking I could eliminate the water flow through the drive completely, so that issue doesn't bite me in the ass in a couple of years down the road. Not sure how important that is for cooling the drive. Will be doing the repair soon, the boat sits in salt

 

[jason78]

Kevin, that is some ugly damage. Trying to think of a way to head off the water tube,gooseneck corrosion. Since I have thru hulls, I'm thinking I could eliminate the water flow through the drive completely, so that issue doesn't bite me in the ass in a couple of years down the road. Not sure how important that is for cooling the drive. Will be doing the repair soon, the boat sits in salt

This is the same thing I plan to do when the time comes for me. Since I also have CC, I have the factory thru hulls they added for additional intake and Y-Connector behind the water pumps where the transom and thru hull intake hoses meet. I have been told there is some kind of "kit" that can be ordered with a plate to block off the transom assembly intake however I am not sure if the engine needs to be out to install this kit or not.

 

[scoflaw]

Yes, engines out, twins anyways. My plan is clamp off the 3/4" hose, in front of and behind the transom ass., pretty much doing the same as a block off plate. Merc says the drive does not need that line for cooling.

 

[scoflaw]

After a lot of observation, now not sure what in the transom assembly is leaking; Any help would be welcome

Won't leak sitting in slip
Won't leak at slip with engines running
Will leak from the transom assembly underway, visibility is poor but can see water running down the transom wall under the assembly.

 

[Bt Doctur]

While they are apart i would recommend installing a grease fitting back where Merc removed it to keep grease in the area and on the seal to prevent corrosion damage.
I install them on the GEN II housings and Bravo should be similiar

 

[Bt Doctur]

Right where the black dot is

 

[Henry Boyd]

After a lot of observation, now not sure what in the transom assembly is leaking; Any help would be welcome

Won't leak sitting in slip
Won't leak at slip with engines running
Will leak from the transom assembly underway, visibility is poor but can see water running down the transom wall under the assembly.

It sounds like the gooseneck, or connection between gooseneck and hose to raw water pump.

Henry


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