LED Instrument Bulbs?

[Cocktail Time]

I am adding some Blue LED underwater lights as well as thinking of adding some LED's in the existing cockpit fixtures. I also have my dash gauges out and have a new dash panel going in.

My question is, does anyone know where to find LED instrument bulbs to fit the factory Sea Ray gauges? I ordered a couple of sizes from Superbrite LEDS but they are too small and they didn't have any suggestions. Or, better yet somebody tell me why this is a stupid idea and I can stop obsessing about it...current bulb has GE 194 on it.

Thanks, Dan

 

[NateRW21]

I'll give you some stupid idea stuff...

The 194 draws something like .4amp... if you have 10 of them, it's only 4amps... that's reason number one... not enough draw to make a difference.

LED's are VERY VERY directional... think directional like a mag-lite with the beam narrowed all the way down; what this means is, depending how the light is expected to distribute (bulk distribution or plastic channeling/fiber optic-ish)... you might end up with a SUPER bright half and a totally dark half of the gauge. (at the very least, you will have an ultra bright spot and normally illuminated rest of the gauge; it's just what happens when you have a focused light pattern)

LED's are USUALLY not offered in the soft yellow-ish white of the incandescent light. This does not mean they can't be had to produce a light along those lines... but they are VERY hard to find (but, they are gaining ground...). SO, if you don't want ultra white or a color, LED is not for you.




BUT... biggest benefit to LED's in this situation; chances are you will never replace them again. But, most boats are pretty easy to access the back of the instrument panel... unlike your typical auto.


Hope this at least helps you decide if it's something you ultimately want, or find you really don't need.

 

[sr360aft]

I agree with Nate on the current draw being low at 4 Amps but only on something you use while providing a charge which I assume you would do while using your instrumentation lights. 4 amps is pretty significant while on battery though. There are LEDs that provide a dispersed light pattern and can be used to replace most incandescent bulbs in a variety of light "temperatures". Cost is typically the deciding factor

 

[fc3]

I would not use LEDs. Dimming LEDs can be a challenge. They don't all dim at the same rate, so some of your instruments would be bright while others would have hit cut-off and be completely dark. In order to dim them, you need a constant current power supply. I also would not do a panel that can't be dimmed unless you don't give a darn about your night vision and enjoy things that go bump in the night.


Best regards,
Frank C

 

[brimanst]

Also, don't forget that presumably, you will only use your instrument lights when you are under way, under power, so battery draw is not really an issue.

briman

 

[Cocktail Time]

All very good points. If you can't dim them, I'm out. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[Sorrento 25]

I wanted to switch from blue/green to red anyway so I bought a pile of red LED 194s off Ebay, and a new $olid-$tate dimmer somewhere and its been working great.

 

[Cocktail Time]

Sorrento,
Were they just regular 194 type bulbs or did they come with the instrument style mount? I have no idea what that mounting type is called, "twist and lock, bayonet"?
Dan

 

[H2ONUT]

Will these work?

http://item.express.ebay.com/194-16...mZ5728038795QQihZ016QQtrZexpQQcmdZExpressItem

 

[Sorrento 25]

Those bulbs are perfect. The actual mount that you see on the back of the gauges is not the bulb. You remove that insert-and-turn mount and then the 194 plugs right into it.

 

[fc3]

All very good points. If you can't dim them, I'm out. Thanks for the feedback!

You can dim LEDs just not evenly by adjusting the voltage with the helm dimmer. A series of LEDs connected in parallel to a variable voltage power supply with dim a different rates and as voltage drops, will stop lighting at different voltages. So some stay on and others are off. A constant current power supply delivers full voltage and current, but varies the amount of "on" versus "off" time. It modulates the width of voltage pulses. (PWM - Pulse Width Modulation) Electronic dimmers are usually PWM. The rheostat that's most likely on your help is not PWM.

Best regards,
Fran k

 

[Pirate]

Here's a dimmer for LED's.

http://www.hollysolar.com/html/dimmer.html

Works great.

 

[Sorrento 25]

So some stay on and others are off. A constant current power supply delivers full voltage and current, but varies the amount of "on" versus "off" time.
Best regards,
Fran k

This is something that I have not noticed. They seem to dim in a very normal and even manner. There may be a point where they do this but I have never found it necesssary to dim them that much??

I'm not sure what brand dimmer I have, but it still uses a remote knob on a pot and a separate black box containing the circuitry that must use PWM.

 

[fc3]

I dim the instrument panel in the car, boat, and airplane the same way. Both my dad and flight instructors said to turn them down as low as possible. Keep dimming until the gauges are just visible. Any brighter and you won't see the unlit or poorly lit stuff in the on the road, on the water, or in the air.

I've noticed, especially when driving the Navigator which is pretty high, that most people drive around with their panel lights as bright as they go. Wonder how they manage to see anything outside the car. No wonder so many idiots have to drive with their high-beams on all the time.

Best regards,
Frank

 

[Sorrento 25]

I agree and I do the same. Unfortunately, the "Cruise" light on my truck dash does not dim along with the rest and is blinding and green at night. Can't believe I haven't covered it with tint yet!