Looking for a better hole shot

[Joel_CA]

Hi all. I've owned my 1998 Bowrider 210 Signature for 3 seasons now, and now that my 3 kids are getting older (and bigger)- I seem to be in need of more power off the line. I basically use my boat to pull 3 or less teens at a time on a huge inflatable tube and more recently- to pull them from the tower when they wakeboard. They're still in the process of learning how to board, so this last outing included repeated launches as they attempted to get up and stay up on the board. I'm usually doing this with 1 or 2 additional passengers (up to 7 or 8 total) on board. I'd like to upgrade my propeller to give me more acceleration and midrange punch. I currently have a 14 1/2 X 19 (48-832830-C1-19) and was thinking of upgrading to either a 3 blade stainless or a 4 blade aluminum. I've been reading up as much as I can but can't seem to come to a conclusion. Im basically looking for more power off the line and in midrange- and am not really worried about top speed. Is there a standard formula used to calculate when going from aluminum to stainless? Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated.

J

 

[Gary Lewis]

A 19" aluminum should give about the same hole-shot as a 19" stainless. Where I've seen the stainless prop beat the aluminum is on top end as the stainless blades can be thinner and will hold a cup better.

So, if you want a better hole-shot go to a 17" prop and pick the material based on your wallet, where you boat, and desire for top end. The "where you boat" thing means that stainless is more durable, but if you boat around rocks you might be better off with aluminum.

 

[Joel_CA]

I was advised by an employee at a local West Marine that switching up to a 4 blade aluminum prop and dropping down to an 18" pitch will give me a better hole shot, midrange power, and greater stern lift with minimal affect on top end. He also said I could get that top end back if I went with stainless at the same give specs. His reasoning and theories made sense at the time, but I still couldn't pull the trigger just then. I will read more about it before making a decision as I won't be out on the water again until early September

 

[Lazy Daze]

A SS prop should also give a slightly better hole shot than the same-pitch Al since the SS blades won't flex as much. When I had my '98 210BR, I found the best prop for me was a Hi-Five (I believe it was a 19"). I took a bunch of props with me to the lake and tried them all out - taking notes, timing 0-30MPH, etc. I found that was the best way to increase my hole shot and not lose any top end, either (granted, you're not as concerned about top end). However, that was quite a long time ago, before things like Smart Tabs (or at least before they became more popular). If I was doing things over, I would add Smart Tabs (or the Bennett equivalent) instead of doing anything with a prop. You'll get A LOT more bang-for-your-buck out of the tabs - including staying on plane at a slower speed, which is great for the kids learning to wakeboard.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I have a thread going (I've posted 3 times and no one else has posted, but it is a thread nonetheless) where I've documented my experience going from 26P 3x3 props to 24P 4x4 props. I got a bit better hole-shot and lost a bit of top-end, but nothing to write home about. And my point with this is that it is really tough to compare props when you change more than one parameter. In my case I changed the number of blades and the pitch and, in spite of dropping the pitch, gained very little.

So, if you want to try different props pick a vendor that will work with you to change props if the first one doesn't work. That's one of the reasons I went with Hill Marine - if I pay the shipping to get my 24's back to them they'll ship me a pair of 22's.

 

[Joel_CA]

Thanks for the information and suggestions guys. I like that fact that Hill Marine offers free prop exchange. I will be contacting them soon.

J

 

[hblock72]

I had the same issue on my 185. I went from a 23p 3 blade aluminum prop to a 21p 5 blade stainless steel highfive prop. It made a HUGE difference in my holeshot and only cost me about 3mph at top speed, but like you I wasn't concerned about top speed. Highfive's are a bit on the pricey side, but it's some of the best money I've spent on my boat.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the information and suggestions guys. I like that fact that Hill Marine offers free prop exchange. I will be contacting them soon.

J

Make sure Hill has the kind of prop you want before you commit. Like the High Five - there's good anecdotal information that says you may want one of those, but if Hill doesn't make one you'll be stuck after you fork over your money.

 

[NorCal Boater]

I've gone through this a bunch in the past and I feel the best advice is to find a local prop shop, not a store but an actual shop that has Prop Scan capabilities, and make them your best friend. What you're asking for is what they do. And they may even have some props they would be willing to loan for testing. You have to remember that the prop that came with your boat was the one the factories deemed would give the best all-around performance. With any deviation from that prop there may be sacrifices elsewhere. A 4-blade prop has advantages but there is more surface area and therefore, more drag.

Lastly, whatever prop you choose you must be mindful of the RPMs at WOT. You still have to stay in that range to keep from lugging or over-revving the motor.

IMHO I'd be looking for a prop shop sooner rather than later.

Shawn

 

[Bay B's]

+1 on the High Five. I used one on my 20' and 23' boats for skiing and bare-footing. Best investment I made for the increased performance.

 

[Michael A Royce]

I am seeking similar advice for my 1998 210 BR. Bought the boat 1 year ago from the original owner who ordered from the factory for use in a freshwater lake. The motor only has 380 hours on it and was just tuned up. It runs great but the wot rpm efficiency is low at 3,800 or so. The propeller that is on the boat is either the original ss or a replacement of the exact ss original. Unfortunately, I do not have the invoice for the boat to see the size propeller, but my mechanic has said a different prop would be in order for the use we have in the gulf shores of western Florida. Are there any recommendations to consider.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I am seeking similar advice for my 1998 210 BR. Bought the boat 1 year ago from the original owner who ordered from the factory for use in a freshwater lake. The motor only has 380 hours on it and was just tuned up. It runs great but the wot rpm efficiency is low at 3,800 or so. The propeller that is on the boat is either the original ss or a replacement of the exact ss original. Unfortunately, I do not have the invoice for the boat to see the size propeller, but my mechanic has said a different prop would be in order for the use we have in the gulf shores of western Florida. Are there any recommendations to consider.

Please see my advice above concerning props as it directly answers your question.

However, your issue is not with the prop. Since it's the original prop or a duplicate, the possible causes for such low RPM:

-- Dirty bottom/fouled running gear
-- Fuel contamination/supply issue
-- User error - not trimming properly (read up on how to trim a boat)
-- Other mechanical issues such as needing a (better) tune up or even low compression

 

[Michael A Royce]

Please see my advice above concerning props as it directly answers your question.

However, your issue is not with the prop. Since it's the original prop or a duplicate, the possible causes for such low RPM:

-- Dirty bottom/fouled running gear
-- Fuel contamination/supply issue
-- User error - not trimming properly (read up on how to trim a boat)
-- Other mechanical issues such as needing a (better) tune up or even low compression

Please see my advice above concerning props as it directly answers your question.

However, your issue is not with the prop. Since it's the original prop or a duplicate, the possible causes for such low RPM:

-- Dirty bottom/fouled running gear
-- Fuel contamination/supply issue
-- User error - not trimming properly (read up on how to trim a boat)
-- Other mechanical issues such as needing a (better) tune up or even low compression

Thanks so much, I will read up on trimming the boat, and likely seek a better tune up. The compression tested out fine, having worked on older cars I did have that test done. I did buy smart tabs for the boat but the mechanic I have said (in his opinion) would not do much for the boat. I have read so many positive reviews on the smart tabs that it surprised me to hear that. I did buy the larger size smart tabs. Thanks again, I will read up on the trimming and if smart tabs have made a difference to others press ahead to have those put on.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Smart Tabs will ABSOLUTELY make a very noticeable difference. I've had lots of experience with those on many boats. But, you may not need them - you have to figure out why you're not getting closer to 4,800 RPM's, first. They will not do anything for your RPM, though - they help with hole shot, not really anything on the top end.

Quick trim lesson -- and I'll let you do the searching for the rest to save my fingers -- always trim all the way down for your hole shot. As the boat starts to plane and level off, then start trimming up. Trimming up gets the boat further out of the water (less drag). Continue to trim up till speed no longer increases or the prop starts to ventilate. The point immediately before that is your WOT and Max RPM. I would expect at least mid-40's for speed (use GPS) and darn near 4,800RPM, maybe a touch more. Do this with a light load in the boat.

 

[Michael A Royce]

Thanks very much. I will follow this and see how it effects the efficiency. Once I am there, I will definitely have the smart tabs attached I am confident that they make a difference. You are very kind to respond and provide such great advice.

 

[Lazy Daze]

You're welcome, Michael. Good luck - the 210BR is a great boat - VERY solid and performs great.