Looking For Input From Experienced Haulers

RichG

RichG

New Member
May 16, 2010
52
Wisconsin
Boat Info
2006 240 Sundancer
Engines
6.2 383 Mag Stroker Engine. 330hp
Bravo III
Hi Guys. I've owned a 2006 240 DA for three years, but have always had it in the slip. It came with a dual axle Vanguard trailer which I have never used! We're vacationing 100 miles away and want to bring the boat. The boat weighs 5500 lbs dry, and I think the trailer weighs 1500 lbs - but I still need to confirm that. So with supplies, gas etc total trailer weight will be 7500-8000 lbs. I have a 2011 4x4 Ford Expedition with the heavy duty tow package, which the specs say is rated to pull 8900 lbs with a weight distributing hitch (which I currently dont have). So if I get the WD hitch, it looks like I should be under the max load spec. But what about pulling the boat out of the water? Do you think this is too close to spec weight to power it up the ramp? Thanks for your thoughts. Rich
 
Last edited:
I have a Tennessee tandem axle trailer that I pull a 240 SD on with an 2011 F-150. I always trailer (no slip) to the lake about 30-40 min away. I have no probs towing or launch/recovery. However, I do shy away from steep ramps.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Now that I've had my coffee, I see I made a minor slip in my post. I have a 240 DA (sundancer), not sundeck. All of the weights I posted are accurate. All of the advice still applies! Thanks.
 
BEFORE YOU USE ANY RAMP TO LAUNCH OR RETREIVE, GET OUT AND INSPECT THE SURFACE.
You could have a Deuce and 1/2 and still slide it into the water if you park on slime.
Leave safety chain on untill boat is in water.
Attach safety chain before pulling up the ramp.
get into 4wd to launch and retrieve. 4wd locks both rears so braking is applied to all 4 wheels instead of 70/30.
use low range and just go SLOW.
sometimes using the parking brake and holding the disconnect will aid in 4 wheel braking going down the ramp.
Above all, REMAIN CALM
 
sfergson727 said:
Just don't get too cocky like these guys, bad things happen....

[video]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-vBH60KrW8[/video]
Click to expand...

That is a great movie!!!


Shaun
Sent from my iPhone
 
Just a note on the vanguard trailer. Not sure if yours is steel but I had a Vanguard with our Pachanga that only saw the fresh water of the great lakes. It too was not used much as I had a boat lift behind the house. At about 6 years old the tongue had rusted completely through on the bottom side. It was fortunately caught before it broke or bent and I had a new piece of steel tubing welded in. Point being - do a quick structural inspection of the trailer itself before the long haul.
 
You should be fine if you don't decide to go up and down Pikes Peak several times a week. Make sure the trailer brakes are working as this most likely weighs more than you have estimated. SR specs indicate 5593 lbs, batteries (2) 100, gas (75 gal) 450. water (20 gal) 160, all oil and other fluids, plus all your safety equipment and "stuff" we all have you are closer to 6800 for the boat alone. Check you trailer hitch on the truck and see what class it is. I do not use a WD hitch to pull the 270. For the short distance you are traveling it should be ok. Do you have experience launching and retrieving boats? Bigger boats? What do you know about the launch you plan to use, do they launch larger vessels there?

MM
 
MM,
don't plan on any pikes peak routes! Good point about the "extra's" that will increase the trailer weight. Since I'll have the boat at a marina while vacationing, I'm going to drain the water and try to run the gas down below 1/2 before the trip. The hitch on the Expedition is a class IV. It says its rated at 6000 lbs without WD hitch, 9200 lbs with the WD hitch. Thats why I'm planning to get the WD style hitch. No I don't have experience with a boat this size and weight. I have pulled travel trailers and smaller boats - but this will be the first time I have a load that is greater than the tow vehicle - hence my reason for the post! I'm a pretty cautious guy - and I'll be running up to the vacation lake next week (without the boat) to check out the ramps. Thanks for all of the information.
 
Bt Doctur,
"check" on remaining calm! wondering what you mean by "holding the disconnect" when backing down the ramp? Do you mean the emergency brake release?
thanks.
 
You should not need to get the WD hitch just for this excursion. I have the similar numbers to you on my truck and do not have WD. If you have surge brakes it is hard to find one that works well. MM
 
If the trailer has not been used in three years, the wheels need to be pulled and the bearings inspected and re-packed.
Also, check your tires for weather checking, etc. Brakes need to be check for proper operation.
You may also have issues with your lights because of possible corrosion problems.
I would also go to Harbor Freight and get an infared temp sensor gun to check your tire and wheel bearing temps in route. 100 miles does not sound like a lot until a bearing burns up or a tire comes unglued. And since that trailer has not been used for quite some time, it needs a careful inspection of everything.
 
Last edited:
RichG said:
Hi Guys. I've owned a 2006 240 DA for three years, but have always had it in the slip. It came with a dual axle Vanguard trailer which I have never used! We're vacationing 100 miles away and want to bring the boat. The boat weighs 5500 lbs dry, and I think the trailer weighs 1500 lbs - but I still need to confirm that. So with supplies, gas etc total trailer weight will be 7500-8000 lbs. I have a 2011 4x4 Ford Expedition with the heavy duty tow package, which the specs say is rated to pull 8900 lbs with a weight distributing hitch (which I currently dont have). So if I get the WD hitch, it looks like I should be under the max load spec. But what about pulling the boat out of the water? Do you think this is too close to spec weight to power it up the ramp? Thanks for your thoughts. Rich
Click to expand...

I have about 400K miles with boats behind 4x4 trucks and am a huge fan of all ramp apron maneuvers in 4LO. Rationale is torque multiplication. Its better on your transmission, pulls the boat up and out of the water easier.

You have plenty of truck for the load and I see no need to add a load distributing hitch for what you've described. That is just my .02 worth, not gospel.


Mark Rinker
www.MREBoatTransport.com
 
I have about 400K miles with boats behind 4x4 trucks and am a huge fan of all ramp apron maneuvers in 4LO. Rationale is torque multiplication. Its better on your transmission, pulls the boat up and out of the water easier.

You have plenty of truck for the load and I see no need to add a load distributing hitch for what you've described. That is just my .02 worth, not gospel.
Click to expand...

with your kind of experience in hauling boats your thoughts on these type of questions are about as close to being 'gospel' as we are going to get....members with vast knowledge in certain aspects of boating that take the time to help others with questions in their area of expertise is what makes forums a great source of education and could prevent serious injuries or property damage from actions of uninformed or misguided members....

cliff
 
Its amazing how aerodynamic and easy to pull boats are. They (not pontoons) are designed to slip through the water, and slip through the air well as well. With that being said, I have to use a WD hitch for my 8500lb camper or i notice a differance. I do not use one on my 11,000 boat and trailer. I can pull the boat 'much easier'.

Also most of the weight of a boat is on the trailer axles not the tongue. (insert funny story of seeing a ass heavy boat on a trailer slowly creap the tongue into the air)
 
Its amazing how aerodynamic and easy to pull boats are. They (not pontoons) are designed to slip through the water, and slip through the air well as well.
i have been told that there are many similarities in fluid dynamics and aerodynamics....no personal knowledge in either concept but the Engineer that told me this seemd to be a competent fellow....

cliff
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
electricaldoctor said:
Do you have a good spare tire and jack for that possible emergency?
Click to expand...

I'll second that question. You know if you don't the emergency will happen - Murphy's Law.
 
I second the notion of replacing tires on the trailer. 3 years of sitting caused 2 of our camper tires to dry rot, and needed to be changed on our move to Wisconsin. Also, a WD hitch does more than allow extra weight, it takes some of the stress off the rear end of your tow rig at distributes it to the trailer and frame better, keeping your front end of the excursion down, and less sag on the rear end. For more of a novice towing a heavy load, it is a good thing to have. Helps with sway (from a passing 18 wheeler for example). I'd get it.
Mike
 
Thanks for the ongoing comments. I appreciate the advice from those that have hauled many times. I agree having a good spare is a must-have. I havent decided if I'll splurge on the WD hitch. The expedition specs say the tow capacity greatly increases with a WD hitch, but the downside according to many is that the surge brakes are not as effective with an HD hitch.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,223
Messages
1,428,881
Members
61,116
Latest member
Gardnersf
Back
Top