Motor oil / Transmission Fluid

[Sparkey600]

I have two questions the first is, What is the best weight oil to use in NY. The book saids there is and easy engine oil drain system I cant find the hose. Can you tell me if a 2005 amberjack with twin 5.7 300 Hp, And inboards. Will the boat have it or do I have to suck it thow the dip stick tube
I have ZF hurth transmission [ ZF63 IV-2.0 199 ] Can you tell me when to change the fluid [ Boat has 100 Hr ] and what kind to use. Do I have to suck it out

 

[BonBini]

I would use a Dino blend multi visc 40 wt with high flow filter. JMHO. ...Ron

 

[Sparkey600]

Can I get this at West Marine

 

[osd9]

I think you should ask the new member Happy Times....I'll bet he has the answer.

 

[Lazy Daze]

The quick-drain system (actually, not so quick) uses an oil hose that is attached to the pan in place of the drain plug. The hose is then connected to a small SS wire that is then connected to your garboard drain plug. When you remove the drain plug, you keep pulling on that SS wire and the oil hose will come out. There is a fitting that can be removed on the end of the hose where the SS wire attaches.

HOWEVER... I'm not sure what happens with an inboard as the engine is much further forward. Take a look down there or pull your garboard plug to check.

Oil recommendation? Any reason you don't want to use what your owner's manual recommends? If I remember correctly, it has 5 recommendations in there.

 

[Hampton]

I would use the manual standard. I believe it's Merc 25-40. They have a nice synthetic blend, and even a synthetic now.

For the tranny, any ATF with the additives listed in that manual will work just fine. I ended up using the Castrol type because it matched the manual. Normally, you'll need to suck it out. Loosen the alan bolt on top. This allows you to remove the cap - it isn't bolted in, but the bolt causes it to tighten to the top container. Remove, clean (with solvent) and dry the filters if made of metal (should be). Suck fluid out through hole beneath filter area. Replace dry, clean filters. Replace fluid with amount you took out. At 100 hours, it's time to do it. I think the book says at 20 hours and then every 100 hours. Many dealers do not bother. I would bother (after that, maybe every 2 years or so, depending on filter debris, your own techniques...).

Check tranny level after shutting down from normal run - some fluid gets trapped in coolers for a short time - this reduction in fluid level must be accounted for when adding fluid.

 

[mawyatt]

John,

My manual says change xmission oil and filter first 25 hours then every 300hrs if I remember correctly. This is the ZF 63 with DTC.

 

[Hampton]

John,

My manual says change xmission oil and filter first 25 hours then every 300hrs if I remember correctly. This is the ZF 63 with DTC.

That just goes to show you - the mind is a terrible thing.

Everyone should reference their manuals - don't take my memory for granted. I can't remember the last time I got this kind of thing exactly right.

 

[Lazy Daze]

That just goes to show you - the mind is a terrible thing.

Everyone should reference their manuals - don't take my memory for granted. I can't remember the last time I got this kind of thing exactly right.

Just keep remembering that forward=down and back=up and you'll be fine! :grin:

 

[Hampton]

Just keep remembering that forward=down and back=up and you'll be fine! :grin:

I actually sat through a briefing the other day where the guy said, "If all else fails, remember that if you pull back and the houses get bigger, push forward and they get smaller." I interrupted and reminded him that that only works if you're upside down. Brain- mouth interconnect failure on his part. Let's hope his front seat stick actuator doesn't fail (student pilot).