Need new anchor chain.

Haden

Haden

Active Member
May 27, 2020
482
Madison, Alabama
Boat Info
2001 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 8.1l Mercury w/V Drives
I’m located on the Tennessee River, and typically anchor in 30 to 35 foot of water. My current set up is 25 foot of chain and the rest is rope, which I hate. I would like to upgrade to all chain. What total length do y’all recommend, brand, galvanized, all stainless, etc.
 
I just switched over to all chain. 200'. Galvanized. You'd have to really, really hate money to buy stainless chain :)

50097008146_cc58dced67_c.jpg
 
I bought mine from Defender marine for the record. Best price I could find, delivered. Just over $4 per foot.
 
First, you need chain that will match your windlass. There are various sizes for thickness, link spacing, etc. See if you have any documentation for or markings on your windlass. The same model windlass can have different gypsies, complicating the matter.

Second, galvanized. It's generally stronger than stainless and way less expensive. Especially for a fresh water environment like yours.

Third, general guidance for scope is 5-7x water depth. At 35 feet depth (pretty deep!) that would be 175- 245 feet. This is usually for a line rode so chain can be a bit less because of the weight. For a safety margin since you are anchoring deep, I would consider 300 feet of chain. With a 38 foot boat it is NOT going to notice the extra weight at the bow.

Fourth, get or make an anchor snubber for the chain. You want to remove the tension from the windlass any time you anchor and you can't just tie the chain off to a cleat. Google anchor chain snubber for how hot to properly use one in case you don't already know it.
 
T
b_arrington said:
First, you need chain that will match your windlass. There are various sizes for thickness, link spacing, etc. See if you have any documentation for or markings on your windlass. The same model windlass can have different gypsies, complicating the matter.

Second, galvanized. It's generally stronger than stainless and way less expensive. Especially for a fresh water environment like yours.

Third, general guidance for scope is 5-7x water depth. At 35 feet depth (pretty deep!) that would be 175- 245 feet. This is usually for a line rode so chain can be a bit less because of the weight. For a safety margin since you are anchoring deep, I would consider 300 feet of chain. With a 38 foot boat it is NOT going to notice the extra weight at the bow.

Fourth, get or make an anchor snubber for the chain. You want to remove the tension from the windlass any time you anchor and you can't just tie the chain off to a cleat. Google anchor chain snubber for how hot to properly use one in case you don't already know it.
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Thank you so much.
 
Guessing your pulpit to water line is about 5' + 35' depth x 5 (scope). you're looking at a minimum of 200' at 5:1 scope.
 
I didn't pay additional for the freight.

It's changed since I bought it, looks like now it's not being sold in varying lengths. A google search will usually come up with the best deals out there. Plus check out local chain suppliers, some times they have left over stock they will deal on.

I paid $319 delivered for 125 feet.
 
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I typically anchor in 10' to 20' so I went with 125' of chain and 200' of line. I replaced the rode that came on the boat when I bought it which only had 25' of chain. The extra chain makes anchoring much easier and less stressful IMO.
 
I forgot to mention a fifth item. When securing the chain rode in the anchor locker, don't connect the chain directly to the boat. Use an intermediary length of line between the chain and the boat. That way if you ever need to drop the anchor and chain rode in an emergency you can cut the line and dump the chain.
 
b_arrington said:
I forgot to mention a fifth item. When securing the chain rode in the anchor locker, don't connect the chain directly to the boat. Use an intermediary length of line between the chain and the boat. That way if you ever need to drop the anchor and chain rode in an emergency you can cut the line and dump the chain.
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Never thought of that!! Thank you for your instruction. It is well received!! Truly!!
 
Tripsdad said:
I typically anchor in 10' to 20' so I went with 125' of chain and 200' of line. I replaced the rode that came on the boat when I bought it which only had 25' of chain. The extra chain makes anchoring much easier and less stressful IMO.
Click to expand...
Same here. Fairly Shallow waters along the ICW I travel. My buddy and I split a 275' purchase from Defender, and replaced the 25' factory chain with the 137.5' chain. Existing 220' of line attached to the new chain. Only once have I had to let out enough rode to get past the chain to the line. I tie off the chain with a 35' three strand 3/4" line.
 
I haven't needed to get past the chain yet this year and I tie off using a Mantus chain hook spliced 15' of three strand 3/4" as well.
 
I truly appreciate the help. So, correct me if I’m wrong. I’m going to get 300 feet of grade 43 G4 hot-dip galvanized high test chain, an anchor snubber, and do not connect the anchor chain directly to the boat. Use a short section of rope to connect directly to the boat just Incase it needs to be cut in an emergency. Last question.... I am also looking to get this for my anchor.

upload_2020-8-13_16-27-26.jpeg
 
When I had my 410DA, I switched to all chain. Purchased from https://www.1st-chainsupply.com/

I split a 550' drum with a buddy that had a 400DA. So, 275' of chain.

In anchorages where I needed 200' + of chain, when recovering, the chain would pile up in the anchor locker on my 410DA until it hit the bottom of the windlass. I would have to push the pile over with my foot in order to continue reeling in more chain. The 380DA is very similar to the 410. Might want to check to see if others with your boat have experience that guides accordingly.

Other than that, no regrets to switching. All chain was much better for anchoring and additional weight in the bow was a benefit.
 
Brett H said:
When I had my 410DA, I switched to all chain. Purchased from https://www.1st-chainsupply.com/

I split a 550' drum with a buddy that had a 400DA. So, 275' of chain.

In anchorages where I needed 200' + of chain, when recovering, the chain would pile up in the anchor locker on my 410DA until it hit the bottom of the windlass. I would have to push the pile over with my foot in order to continue reeling in more chain. The 380DA is very similar to the 410. Might want to check to see if others with your boat have experience that guides accordingly.

Other than that, no regrets to switching. All chain was much better for anchoring and additional weight in the bow was a benefit.
Click to expand...
You also made a good point. 300’ might be too much. Maybe some with a 380 can comment. I’m trying to make anchoring hands free. I would rather not have to push the pile over with my foot. Haha. Although, that still would be better than the rope hanging up...
 
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