Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

OK yours must be that slightly off white shade, the brite white was Arctic White. Glad you got it straigth from Sea Ray now you can get the correct match. That stuff isn't cheap so you don't want to waste it.
 
Dude at Sea Ray was like, " Wow, that goes back a ways!" I replied, "No. Your just to damn young!"
 
Hello all, new member here but long time stalker of the forum. I have a quick question though. I have a 1986 300 weekender that I'm on my 2nd season with. Has anyone replaced the anchor hatch at the bow of the boat? Mine has dry rotted and separated from the hinge. Thanks in advance for your help.
 
86WE300, Welcome. I re-cored my hatch due to the condition you mentioned. It was fairly easy, I removed the rotten core and saved the fiberglass shell. I then installed marine plywood in the existing shell using epoxy and glass cloth. I finished the inside with brite white Bilge Cote paint. Mine had some defects in the gelcoat so I regelcoated the top using Spectrum color liquid gelcoat compound. Masked off the smooth edges and after a good sanding applied it with a foam roller and followed with a dry texture roller. Did this about three coats to get the desired match to the existing nonskid on the deck. It is a very good match and the hatch is better than new and looks factory. Some here have made one out of Starboard, that is also and option if the original look isn't that important to you.
 
Welcome to the Classics, mine was the same as Scorpio's and I did mine the same. My core was shot but the hatch was in good shape. It worked out very well for me
 
Thank you for the replies. I am not sure if mine has the fiberglass shell that you guys are talking about. I will have to check when I head to the boat tomorrow. Another option I found was a company called plasteak in Ohio, they want $200 I believe for a duplicate hatch made from their material.
 
Does anyone know where the fuse or breaker is for the macerator on an 80's 300 Sundancer?
Getting no power to the keyed switch in the head and trying to track down the problem.
 
I will shoot a photo tomorrow but mine are on wall in the radio cabinet at the helm. Again I will send you a photo in the morning
 
I ordered two pieces (have two boats) of Starboard (textured) cut by the vendor (on Ebay), then made the final tapered cut myself. Looks great. Will last forever!
 
I will shoot a photo tomorrow but mine are on wall in the radio cabinet at the helm. Again I will send you a photo in the morning

All of the fuses under the dash are good, so it isn't one of those. I was hoping someone might know if there is an inline fuse or breaker somewhere else.
 
Did you check for voltage at the pump wires with a volt meter? Its possible the macerator is locked up if it doesn't get used much.
 
Not getting power to the switch in the head, so wouldn't be getting it at the pump.
Problem has got to be somewhere between the battery and the switch, but all fuses under the dash are good, and there is no breaker at the helm for the macerator. Thinking that it has to be fused somewhere in order to protect the power source. Just can't find where.
Tough to tell without taking the helm apart, but looks like the wire going to the switch from the bilge runs direct to it without going up under the dash. It's a fairly heavy wire. Probably 10 gauge? So it would be pretty easy to spot under the dash.
Based on the size of the macerator pump and the gauge of the wire coming in, and then going out of, the switch, I'm thinking there has got to be probably a 30 amp inline fuse or breaker somewhere along the line. Just not sure where Sea Ray stashed it, and it isn't on the wiring diagram I have.
 
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I have some inline fuses coming off the battery switch. I will have to look Saturday to see of there are any heavy gauge wires.
 
I have a 1986-300 I just had same issue it is the switch on head or 3 way switch on dash it is wired into shower bielge good luck.
 
If you get white gelcoat and buy the yellow strong tint you can mix it. For one ounce of white not even a full drop of yellow is needed. Less is better you can add more if needed. When I did my swim platform extention this worked perfect for the color.

The fellow that did the floor also built the first swim platform extention. I will see if I can find his user name or the thread. Nice guy does great work.

Ken

Here is the link to the thread on replacing the carpet
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...0s-era-sundancer-300?highlight=ripping+carpet
 
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Sea Ray may have run power directly off of one of the battery switches to the head switch. I will look at my boat this weekend. You are right, that is heavy gage wire 8 or 10ga so they may have tapped off a bat. switch.
 
There is a fuse for it under the helm with the rest of them. I have problems with mine sometimes and its usually from the fuse being corroded. make sure theyre all clean and making good contact
Not getting power to the switch in the head, so wouldn't be getting it at the pump.
Problem has got to be somewhere between the battery and the switch, but all fuses under the dash are good, and there is no breaker at the helm for the macerator. Thinking that it has to be fused somewhere in order to protect the power source. Just can't find where.
Tough to tell without taking the helm apart, but looks like the wire going to the switch from the bilge runs direct to it without going up under the dash. It's a fairly heavy wire. Probably 10 gauge? So it would be pretty easy to spot under the dash.
Based on the size of the macerator pump and the gauge of the wire coming in, and then going out of, the switch, I'm thinking there has got to be probably a 30 amp inline fuse or breaker somewhere along the line. Just not sure where Sea Ray stashed it, and it isn't on the wiring diagram I have.
 
Greetings.

I am new to this forum (just found it through Google while searching for parts). I own a 1988 300WE. It was a big mess when I bought it, but now it is really taking shape (new running gear, replaced raw water strainers for genny and AC), replaced most lights with LEDs, new chartplotter, etc. It is finally at a point where my wife will consider sleeping on the boat. But, she wants me to install a privacy curtain between the forward berth and the dinette (the original is long gone). After much searching, I have been unable to find a replacement curtain or even the hooks that hold the curtain to the track mounted in the boat.

At this point, I am open to suggestions. Do I leave the original curtain track and just install a simple rod? Does anyone know where I might be able to find the OEM "hooks" so that I can use the existing track?

On a different note, I take a lot of flak from the dock crew for not having any seating on the aft deck. Do I have to fabricate my own seating, or is there anyone out there that knows where I might be able to find some (not talking about folding chairs...she wants me to have seats like the newer boats...)

Anyway, I'm glad I found this board. Looking forward to being a part of the community.

Neal (aka Just Cruzin')
 
you can get those track slides at just about any rv dealer. if your talking about the transom seating, a couple big coolers with the fitted cushions would be a nice fix, and functional!
Greetings.

I am new to this forum (just found it through Google while searching for parts). I own a 1988 300WE. It was a big mess when I bought it, but now it is really taking shape (new running gear, replaced raw water strainers for genny and AC), replaced most lights with LEDs, new chartplotter, etc. It is finally at a point where my wife will consider sleeping on the boat. But, she wants me to install a privacy curtain between the forward berth and the dinette (the original is long gone). After much searching, I have been unable to find a replacement curtain or even the hooks that hold the curtain to the track mounted in the boat.

At this point, I am open to suggestions. Do I leave the original curtain track and just install a simple rod? Does anyone know where I might be able to find the OEM "hooks" so that I can use the existing track?

On a different note, I take a lot of flak from the dock crew for not having any seating on the aft deck. Do I have to fabricate my own seating, or is there anyone out there that knows where I might be able to find some (not talking about folding chairs...she wants me to have seats like the newer boats...)

Anyway, I'm glad I found this board. Looking forward to being a part of the community.

Neal (aka Just Cruzin')
 
I took my back seat out so that I could fish the boat. The euro lounge seat that was in the back of mine was always in the way too. Deck chairs are the way to go, tell her that all the expensive boats use deck chairs.

Greetings.

I am new to this forum (just found it through Google while searching for parts). I own a 1988 300WE. It was a big mess when I bought it, but now it is really taking shape (new running gear, replaced raw water strainers for genny and AC), replaced most lights with LEDs, new chartplotter, etc. It is finally at a point where my wife will consider sleeping on the boat. But, she wants me to install a privacy curtain between the forward berth and the dinette (the original is long gone). After much searching, I have been unable to find a replacement curtain or even the hooks that hold the curtain to the track mounted in the boat.

At this point, I am open to suggestions. Do I leave the original curtain track and just install a simple rod? Does anyone know where I might be able to find the OEM "hooks" so that I can use the existing track?

On a different note, I take a lot of flak from the dock crew for not having any seating on the aft deck. Do I have to fabricate my own seating, or is there anyone out there that knows where I might be able to find some (not talking about folding chairs...she wants me to have seats like the newer boats...)

Anyway, I'm glad I found this board. Looking forward to being a part of the community.

Neal (aka Just Cruzin')
 

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