Official 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 290 Thread

I did the whole.boat replacement from great lakes with 20% off. Total cost was about $7,000 if I remember correctly. Worth every penny the first time you are coming back with a boat load of people and the sky opens up on you. Glad we had a dry place to wait out the storm.
 
I remember my total cost being closer to $3-4k for everything. I got every piece they offer.
 
Thanks everyone. I'll hold out for the 20% for sure, since we can make it through the rest of the year with our existing canvas.
 
Hi everyone, my wife and I just bought a 2001 Sundancer 290 and we're very excited. One of the first things I'd like to do it replace the old TV/VCR combo with something a bit more modern but I can't figure out how to remove the existing one. Any tips on this?

Also, how did you mount your new one? I'm thinking I will use a swivel arm mounted to the spot where the current TV is.
 
Congrats, we love ours as well. Your layout is totally different than ours so I cant help with the TV. Post some pictures of her when you have a chance!
 
magstang1 said:
I remember my total cost being closer to $3-4k for everything. I got every piece they offer.
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im fairly forgetful so it could have been $1800. once its done i dont think about it anymore.

i got everything except the front hatch cover and mooring cover. i use the aft curtain or the full camper so no need for a mooring cover.
 
A "Little Green Machine" works very well with the small amount of carpet we have. Just a little rough on the hands and knees! Just be sure to let it dry out good. Invest in a set of carpet covers from Great Lakes if you don't have them.
 
I bought the cockpit cover too but I never installed it. It's brand new in the package if someone is interested. Tan color.

They don't list the port hole cover but if you ask, they have them and they are cheap. I think it was the same with the carpet runners.
 
stitaxi: To remove the old one, know that the TV/VCR is screwed to the flat wood. So you first have to remover the drawer below, then pull the screws from below that anchor the flat wood. Then the wood and TV/VCR can be slid out, and the flat board can be unscrewed from the TV/VCR.
Most folks here are putting in a swing mount to support a flat screen.
 
Tacoma290 said:
stitaxi: To remove the old one, know that the TV/VCR is screwed to the flat wood. So you first have to remover the drawer below, then pull the screws from below that anchor the flat wood. Then the wood and TV/VCR can be slid out, and the flat board can be unscrewed from the TV/VCR.
Most folks here are putting in a swing mount to support a flat screen.
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Thanks Tacoma290 - I'll try that next weekend. Does the TV operate on 12V or 120V? I'm assuming it's 12V based on the switch panel.
Our first day out on the water was great, we really love this boat.
Here are a few pictures from when we took delivery.

http://imgur.com/a/pEHf6
 
stitaxi: Your boat looks to be in great shape and so clean! Glad to hear you are enjoying it.
The TV is dual voltage (12V DC and 120V AC). There is an outlet hidden behind the TV, and there is also a 12V connection back there as well.
 
So I dealt with a new issue I thought I would share. I noticed a few spots of oil below the new port engine. Then the spots became more prominent. Turns out the leak was from the oil fitting on the block that is part of the remote oil filter system. The fitting hangs off the far lower side, so it is possible it was damaged during engine installation since it hangs so low. The brass fitting had been cross-threaded and the oil flex pipe could no longer seal properly.
I did not want to pull the engine block, so the only way fix was to move the water tank out of the way, and to move the water tank, the batteries and the battery trays had to be pulled. Once the batteries were out of the way, I disconnected the tank from all the piping, and was able to slide it almost in front of the engine. Then the remote oil fitting housing could be accessed by laying across the engine. Not easy but at least do-able. Replaced the brass fitting and the flex piping: back in business!
 
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magstang1 said:
I bought the cockpit cover too but I never installed it. It's brand new in the package if someone is interested. Tan color.

They don't list the port hole cover but if you ask, they have them and they are cheap. I think it was the same with the carpet runners.
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Tried to send you a pm, but you are full......LOL
What is included in the cover?
 
gtfireftr said:
Tried to send you a pm, but you are full......LOL
What is included in the cover?
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Lol. Not sure. Never opened the box.

Ill take a look. It's just a canvas cover that goes from the bottom of the windshield to the back of the boat.
 
I just posted this in the general section but hoping someone has had to deal with a cabin door issue as well? The lower truck on the furthest part of the door towards port has broken in half. The door still slides, but its cockeyed now and has to be lifted gingerly to reach the latch. I really don't want to take the helm out this winter. Any other options?

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/74267-Another-cabin-door-repair
 
I'm pretty sure I replaced the truck on the bottom port side of the door by shimming it up and doing it in place. It's been a while...
 
magstang1 said:
I'm pretty sure I replaced the truck on the bottom port side of the door by shimming it up and doing it in place. It's been a while...
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Thanks, I'll see how high I can shim it up this weekend. We finally have some heat up in this area so it's like 95 today and should be for the next few days so we're just relaxing on the boat instead of working on it for once.
 
I just did this last week, you'll need to unscrew the three screws holding the track to the door, and three or four screws holding the bottom track to the floor. Open the breaker panel under the steering and move the stopper to allow the panel to open completely, with a little bit of force you'll need to slide the track that was bolted to the door out from underneath the door, leaving the door fully opened and the track in the "closed" position. Unscrew the trucks from the door track, this should allow you to wedge the trucks out from the bottom track. The reverse is applied to reinstall the door and tracks. It's best to do this with another person to help slide the track from the door and to reinstall it. I hope this helps.

Good Luck!
 
kayos said:
I just did this last week, you'll need to unscrew the three screws holding the track to the door, and three or four screws holding the bottom track to the floor. Open the breaker panel under the steering and move the stopper to allow the panel to open completely, with a little bit of force you'll need to slide the track that was bolted to the door out from underneath the door, leaving the door fully opened and the track in the "closed" position. Unscrew the trucks from the door track, this should allow you to wedge the trucks out from the bottom track. The reverse is applied to reinstall the door and tracks. It's best to do this with another person to help slide the track from the door and to reinstall it. I hope this helps.

Good Luck!
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thank you! I'll give it a look this weekend. Awesome first post by the way, welcome!
 
I added a subwoofer today. What a dramatic improvement.

For anyone that's wondering, there is plenty of room.

 
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