Official 215 Express Thread

Hello Cliff, I really like the table idea you had. Can you provide the details on that one please. Oh and also the gauge panel too. Thats a good starting point. Thank you so much.
Richard

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Blurry Lines said:
Hello Cliff, I really like the table idea you had. Can you provide the details on that one please. Oh and also the gauge panel too. Thats a good starting point. Thank you so much.
Richard

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

here is the table i used.....
http://www.boatersplus.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=58020

the original color of the table is beige....i wanted it to better match the color of the boat vinyl so i coated it with SEM vinyl coating.... http://www.carkitsonline.com/product/?id=1057781 .....i used this SEM coating to recoat all of the vinyl in my cockpit and it turned out nice.....i then used the SEM 'Ultra Blue' coating for the raised edgeing around the table that matches the piping color in my cockpit vinyl....i got the 'Sea Ray' vinyl decal off of ebay....it was a perfect color match to the SEM ultra blue......the support leg had to be 2" OD to fit into the table....i could not find a standard table leg with a 2" OD so i used an automotive exhaust pipe extension....i bought the exhaust pipe extension at the loclal Pep Boys auto parts store....the white foot on the table leg is a PVC fitting i found at the local Home Depot....i don't know what is is called...i simply went to HD and looked at what was avaiable in the size i needed and came up with this fitting....it is a perfect fit and glued into place with a strong all weather adhesive.....the hinge clips were the most difficult to find, but i finaly found what i needed at Grainger.....they are locking pipe clamps.....here is the clamp i used ... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CADDY-Tube-And-Pipe-Clamp-1RUZ8?Pid=search they are a tight fit on the seat grab rail and make the table easy to remove if/when needed.....i used a short strap with a snap installed to lock the table in the down position when not in use.....the strap has the female half of the snap...the male half of the snap is screwed into the front edge of the table....i put a couple small pieces of white weather strip on the seat base to cushion the contact point between the table and the seat base....i used some flexible chrome molding around the edge of the table for a finishing touch....it can be bought at auto parts stores.....i store the table leg in the starboard side storage cavity when not in use....i can have the table set up and/or taken down in just a few seconds......

for the gauge panel i used 1/4" black starboard....i found a marina on ebay that was selling off some scrap pieces they had lying around....i used the old panel as a template for the new panel....the starboard is easy to work with by using standard wood working tools.....i traced the outline of the old panel and gauge holes and switch holes onto the starboard...i used a jig saw to cut the panel out and used a hole saw to cut out the gauge holes....i used a Dremel rotary tool with a cutting drill bit to cut out the switch holes....you may have noticed i added some additional switches and depth finder to the panel and moved some gauges around....i used some mounting boxes for the new switches to give them a nice clean look.....when the new panel was finished and all the switches and gauges were reinserted i used some flexible chrome molding to outline the panel for a 'finishing' touch...this can be bought at just about any auto parts store.....

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CliffA said:
here is the table i used.....
http://www.boatersplus.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=58020

the original color of the table is beige....i wanted it to better match the color of the boat vinyl so i coated it with SEM vinyl coating.... http://www.carkitsonline.com/product/?id=1057781 .....i used this SEM coating to recoat all of the vinyl in my cockpit and it turned out nice.....i then used the SEM 'Ultra Blue' coating for the raised edgeing around the table that matches the piping color in my cockpit vinyl....i got the 'Sea Ray' vinyl decal off of ebay....it was a perfect color match to the SEM ultra blue......the support leg had to be 2" OD to fit into the table....i could not find a standard table leg with a 2" OD so i used an automotive exhaust pipe extension....i bought the exhaust pipe extension at the loclal Pep Boys auto parts store....the white foot on the table leg is a PVC fitting i found at the local Home Depot....i don't know what is is called...i simply went to HD and looked at what was avaiable in the size i needed and came up with this fitting....it is a perfect fit and glued into place with a strong all weather adhesive.....the hinge clips were the most difficult to find, but i finaly found what i needed at Grainger.....they are locking pipe clamps.....here is the clamp i used ... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CADDY-Tube-And-Pipe-Clamp-1RUZ8?Pid=search they are a tight fit on the seat grab rail and make the table easy to remove if/when needed.....i used a short strap with a snap installed to lock the table in the down position when not in use.....the strap has the female half of the snap...the male half of the snap is screwed into the front edge of the table....i put a couple small pieces of white weather strip on the seat base to cushion the contact point between the table and the seat base....i used some flexible chrome molding around the edge of the table for a finishing touch....it can be bought at auto parts stores.....i store the table leg in the starboard side storage cavity when not in use....i can have the table set up and/or taken down in just a few seconds......

for the gauge panel i used 1/4" black starboard....i found a marina on ebay that was selling off some scrap pieces they had lying around....i used the old panel as a template for the new panel....the starboard is easy to work with by using standard wood working tools.....i traced the outline of the old panel and gauge holes and switch holes onto the starboard...i used a jig saw to cut the panel out and used a hole saw to cut out the gauge holes....i used a Dremel rotary tool with a cutting drill bit to cut out the switch holes....you may have noticed i added some additional switches and depth finder to the panel and moved some gauges around....i used some mounting boxes for the new switches to give them a nice clean look.....when the new panel was finished and all the switches and gauges were reinserted i used some flexible chrome molding to outline the panel for a 'finishing' touch...this can be bought at just about any auto parts store.....

View attachment 31071View attachment 31070View attachment 31072View attachment 31073
Click to expand...

Wow ,

That table looks fantastic, Ill be making one like that myself shortly !

I have one question for you about the freshwater pump maybe You'll know the answer...

After I opened the compartment with the fuel and freshwater tank I have noticed that someone had removed the pump out of there so I decided to look for a new one.

found the part number on searays website (parts manual for 1997 ec 215) page 13 of the manual item number 6 0504969 pump freshwater shurflo 2 8 gpm
http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/1C1_24_74DEIPR378U.pdf

The problem is I cant find that pump for sale anywhere online..... Would you happen to know if I can replace it with other pump similar to that one ? Shurflo doesn't seem to have an answer for that..

Thank you for you help !
 
veetek said:
I have one question for you about the freshwater pump maybe You'll know the answer...

After I opened the compartment with the fuel and freshwater tank I have noticed that someone had removed the pump out of there so I decided to look for a new one.

found the part number on searays website (parts manual for 1997 ec 215) page 13 of the manual item number 6 0504969 pump freshwater shurflo 2 8 gpm
http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/1C1_24_74DEIPR378U.pdf

The problem is I cant find that pump for sale anywhere online..... Would you happen to know if I can replace it with other pump similar to that one ? Shurflo doesn't seem to have an answer for that..

Thank you for you help !
Click to expand...

yes, another pump with the same gpm (gallon per minute) rating will work....i had to replace my pump as well when i first got my boat and just used a similar ShurFlo pump....you may have to drill new screw holes but that is no big deal....

cliff
 
if i might cut in here i've had the same problem on my 99.
this is what was in mine.http://www.anchorexpress.com/search.php?search_query=42510-0000&x=10&y=10 and this is the cheepest place so far . i have not had a chanch to buy it yet ive had other problems this year . we really dont use the sink much, bottled water and handy wipes work just as good. winterizing, antifreeze, bleach and freshner in the spring hand washing is all its good for any way. i'd like to know how it works though. If i trade up i'd like to have it fixed.good luck
 
EDMAN said:
if i might cut in here i've had the same problem on my 99.
this is what was in mine.http://www.anchorexpress.com/search.php?search_query=42510-0000&x=10&y=10 and this is the cheepest place so far . i have not had a chanch to buy it yet ive had other problems this year . we really dont use the sink much, bottled water and handy wipes work just as good. winterizing, antifreeze, bleach and freshner in the spring hand washing is all its good for any way. i'd like to know how it works though. If i trade up i'd like to have it fixed.good luck
Click to expand...

Ed,
we do not use the sink that much either....we keep a 2 gallon dispenser of fresh tap water beside the microwave oven in the galley for things like brushing our teeth or washing off contacts, etc....we do use the transom sprayer to cool off if we are sitting on the swim platform and to wash off muddy feet when needed....i also like to rinse my floating chairs and floating cooler off before i bring them back on board....i have also installed a bow sprayer that is tied into the fresh water system....i use it to wash off the anchor when it is retrieved and also to wash down the bow if/when mud drops off of the anchor onto the deck....

cliff
 
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Hello Cliff, I have enjoyed reading all of your posts and looking at the photos you posted. My wife and I just bought a 2000 215EC, gonna take the maiden voyage this weekend. So far, we love what we see. You have made many improvements that we have already talked about. Mainly the dual batteries and the bug screen. Do you have a pattern for that? Our boat only has one Group 27 battery. Also, did your boat come with a shore tie hook up, or did you install that for the 110-AC down in the cabin? I am pretty handy with stuff as long as I have some guidance and directions. Would love to chat more. Thanks for sharing. Scott
 
Sunset Lady said:
Hello Cliff, I have enjoyed reading all of your posts and looking at the photos you posted. My wife and I just bought a 2000 215EC, gonna take the maiden voyage this weekend. So far, we love what we see. You have made many improvements that we have already talked about. Mainly the dual batteries and the bug screen. Do you have a pattern for that? Our boat only has one Group 27 battery. Also, did your boat come with a shore tie hook up, or did you install that for the 110-AC down in the cabin? I am pretty handy with stuff as long as I have some guidance and directions. Would love to chat more. Thanks for sharing. Scott
Click to expand...

Scott,
congrats on the 'new' boat.....i hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoy ours....the dual batteries and the shore power hook-up were already on the boat when i bought it....i believe the dual batteries were a factory option but i think the shore power hook-up was added by a previous owner.....neither feature should be very hard to add to your boat...if/when you want to tackle these projects and need any pics or info just let me know....i do not have a pattern for the cabin screen door.....i just worked with a local canvas shop and they made it on the fly....i can provide more pics and details if it would help you......i have a summary of the mods and upgrades i have done..... if your are interested in looking it over just shoot me a PM with an email address i can send an attachment to.....

cliff
 
Draddog said:
Has anyone installed Nauticus smart tabs on their 215? I would like to plane at a slower speed with a lower deck angle. I have read some good reports on these.
Click to expand...

you may also want to try a 4 blade prop I have heard they do a great job at keeping you on plane at lower RPM'S but you lose a little top end
 
CliffA said:
Just finished up replacing my fuel tank in my 215EC due to a mishap involving a mis-guided drill bit.....:smt101 .....i thought I would make this post in case anyone else happens to have a need to replace their tank....the tank is still available from Moeller....it is their model #4807-2....it is a 48 gallon tank......you have to go through a Sea Ray dealer to order a new tank since this model tank is a Sea Ray specific design.....i owe a big thanks to Dennis (aka 'Lazy Daze') for helping me order my new tank.....my cost was $472 for the tank and $58 shipping from Sparta, TN to Lancaster, SC....one good thing that came from this was I had the chance to really clean out the bilge floor under the tank and inspect the area closely for any 'surprises'....fortunately everything looked good and the tank compartment is almost as clean now as it was when the boat was new....we are fortunate that the design of the 215EC allows for easy access to the fuel tank....removal and installation of the tank was relatively easy.....if anyone has any questions regarding this job just let me know....

cliff
Click to expand...

Hey Cliff was their an option for a bigger tank? the one downfall is a 50 Gallon gas tank I would have thought a 85 would have been better. Thats why I was thinking while you had it out maybe go bigger ??
 
CliffA said:
Scott,
congrats on the 'new' boat.....i hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoy ours....the dual batteries and the shore power hook-up were already on the boat when i bought it....i believe the dual batteries were a factory option but i think the shore power hook-up was added by a previous owner.....neither feature should be very hard to add to your boat...if/when you want to tackle these projects and need any pics or info just let me know....i do not have a pattern for the cabin screen door.....i just worked with a local canvas shop and they made it on the fly....i can provide more pics and details if it would help you......i have a summary of the mods and upgrades i have done..... if your are interested in looking it over just shoot me a PM with an email address i can send an attachment to.....

cliff
Click to expand...


Hello Cliff

I really like what you did with your boat I was wondering can you post some pics of how they installed the shore power on your boat I really want to add that feature Thanks for the help

J
 
jrock1062 said:
you may also want to try a 4 blade prop I have heard they do a great job at keeping you on plane at lower RPM'S but you lose a little top end
Click to expand...

this year i switched to a 4 blade - 17P - 14.25" AL prop and it does improve the time to plane and the ability to stay on plane at lower speed......

cliff
 
I know this is late in coming but I installed smart tabs . one of the best improvements I've done. With more people gets on plane better. with wife and I there is no nose up just jumps up and goes. flat. It used to be just fast or slow no in-between. on plane at 18-20mph.
 
jrock1062 said:
Hello Cliff

I really like what you did with your boat I was wondering can you post some pics of how they installed the shore power on your boat I really want to add that feature Thanks for the help

J
Click to expand...


here is a little better pic of the shore power box and the cabin outlet....the shore power box is connected directly to the double GFI outlet in the cabin which is located under the paper towel holder....the wires are run in the port side storage cavity and enter the cabin under the galley sink where the galley cabinet back wall meets the side of the boat hull....there is a small crack that is big enough to push the wires through....i have installed an onboard dual bank battery charger that is also directly connected to the shore power box...the pic shows how i use a regular drop cord with and adapter cable to plug into the shore power box when the boat is stored on the trailer...this keeps both batteries charged all the time....

cliff

View attachment 31378View attachment 31379
 
jrock1062 said:
Hey Cliff was their an option for a bigger tank? the one downfall is a 50 Gallon gas tank I would have thought a 85 would have been better. Thats why I was thinking while you had it out maybe go bigger ??
Click to expand...

the standard fuel tank measures 24"W x 42"L x 12.5"H with angled side bottom corners to match the curvature of the hull....its capacity is 48 gallons...the filler pipe holds another couple gallons so the overall size rating for the fuel tank is 50 gallons.....i did a significant amount of research on available fuel tanks that would fit in the boat....the width of the fuel tank is pretty much fixed due to the construction of the boat, but there is room to add both height and length to the fuel tank....the problem with adding height to the fuel tank is interference with the plastic in-floor storage tray...if you don't mind giving up this storage the height of the fuel tank can be increased another several inches which would add significant volume to the fuel tank......you could increase the length of the fuel tank as well by relocating the freshwater pump.....the pump could be relocated beside the fresh water tank on the forward wall of the compartment (next to the cabin), but you would have to rework the piping for the fresh water system.......this would allow another foot or so to be added to the length of the fuel tank but it would mean loosing the storage space in this compartment.....the wall that divides the fuel tank compartment from the fresh water system compartment is held in place by 4 angle brackets and screws....it could easily be relocated to allow for a longer fuel tank to be installed.....by loosing the in-floor storage and the under-floor storage you could install a significantly larger fuel tank....

i did not want to give up the storage space or go throught the hassel of repiping the fresh water system or running a new filler hose and vent hose to the fuel tank so i went back with the same size and design fuel tank as the original....

hope this helps....

cliff
 
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CliffA said:
the standard fuel tank measures 24"W x 42"L x 12.5"H with angled side bottom corners to match the curvature of the hull....its capacity is 48 gallons...the filler pipe holds another couple gallons so the overall size rating for the fuel tank is 50 gallons.....i did a significant amount of research on available fuel tanks that would fit in the boat....the width of the fuel tank is pretty much fixed due to the construction of the boat, but there is room to add both height and length to the fuel tank....the problem with adding height to the fuel tank is interference with the plastic in-floor storage tray...if you don't mind giving up this storage the height of the fuel tank can be increased another several inches which would add significant volume to the fuel tank......you could increase the length of the fuel tank as well by relocating the freshwater pump.....the pump could be relocated beside the fresh water tank on the forward wall of the compartment (next to the cabin), but you would have to rework the piping for the fresh water system.......this would allow another foot or so to be added to the length of the fuel tank but it would mean loosing the storage space in this compartment.....the wall that divides the fuel tank compartment from the fresh water system compartment is held in place by 4 angle brackets and screws....it could easily be relocated to allow for a longer fuel tank to be installed.....by loosing the in-floor storage and the under-floor storage you could install a significantly larger fuel tank....

i did not want to give up the storage space or go throught the hassel of repiping the fresh water system or running a new filler hose and vent hose to the fuel tank so i went back with the same size and design fuel tank as the original....

hope this helps....

cliff
Click to expand...


Thanks Cliff
That does help,in my case I most likely not go up but go long to try to get the extra gallons. the issue i think I will be facing is buying a tank, the replacement tanks are pre made if I wanted one long I would think that would be a one off and not sure the cost would be worth that

On the shore power pics they do help,I am still weighing whether or not to start that project Thanks Again

J
 
jrock1062 said:
Thanks Cliff
That does help,in my case I most likely not go up but go long to try to get the extra gallons. the issue i think I will be facing is buying a tank, the replacement tanks are pre made if I wanted one long I would think that would be a one off and not sure the cost would be worth that

On the shore power pics they do help,I am still weighing whether or not to start that project Thanks Again

J
Click to expand...


look at the Moeller web site....they list many sizes of tanks that are generic and not brand specific and available now and can be bought by anyone...they list the dimensions and the capacity of each tank....you should be able to find a longer tank that is 24" wide or less that is longer and has a larger capacity than the current tank.....

cliff
 
CliffA said:
the standard fuel tank measures 24"W x 42"L x 12.5"H with angled side bottom corners to match the curvature of the hull....its capacity is 48 gallons...the filler pipe holds another couple gallons so the overall size rating for the fuel tank is 50 gallons.....i did a significant amount of research on available fuel tanks that would fit in the boat....the width of the fuel tank is pretty much fixed due to the construction of the boat, but there is room to add both height and length to the fuel tank....the problem with adding height to the fuel tank is interference with the plastic in-floor storage tray...if you don't mind giving up this storage the height of the fuel tank can be increased another several inches which would add significant volume to the fuel tank......you could increase the length of the fuel tank as well by relocating the freshwater pump.....the pump could be relocated beside the fresh water tank on the forward wall of the compartment (next to the cabin), but you would have to rework the piping for the fresh water system.......this would allow another foot or so to be added to the length of the fuel tank but it would mean loosing the storage space in this compartment.....the wall that divides the fuel tank compartment from the fresh water system compartment is held in place by 4 angle brackets and screws....it could easily be relocated to allow for a longer fuel tank to be installed.....by loosing the in-floor storage and the under-floor storage you could install a significantly larger fuel tank....

i did not want to give up the storage space or go throught the hassel of repiping the fresh water system or running a new filler hose and vent hose to the fuel tank so i went back with the same size and design fuel tank as the original....

hope this helps....

cliff
Click to expand...
Cliff, it sounds you you and I have been doing the exact same thing. I've been trying to figure out my options for a larger fuel tank for a while. It would be ideal to find a Moeller, or some other manufacturer's pre-made plastic tank, that is just longer and maybe a bit higher, but I've searched high and low and haven't been able to find anything with the right proportions. The width seems to be the main problem. From the many phone calls I've made to technical departments, having a custom one-off plastic tank made is cost-prohibitive because they have to make a new mold. The other option is aluminum. They can make an aluminum tank in any custom shape and size you want. I figure I could get up to at least 80 gallons and probably more with a custom aluminum tank. I don't think the increased weight would be an issue, since it is fairly trivial considering the overall capacity of the boat, plus it would be positioned down low and on the centerline. You will get different reactions from different folks when you talk about switching from a plastic fuel tank to an alumnium one. Sea Ray told me it would be fine as long as it was made by a good manufacturer and installed correctly. There is apparently a bit of an art to the installation. Sea Ray actually said that most larger boats have aluminum tanks. If I did it, I would get an extra-thick one and be extra careful about the installation. Apparently, the trick is to keep the area around it open to the air, so water never sits against it, and foaming it in sounds good on paper but is a big no-no. It would eliminate at least one of the down-sides to a plastic tank, that they tend to leach fuel vapor, which everyone says is not dangerous, just a bit smelly. Not sure how much I buy that. As you said, there is only so much space down there, and moving the FW system to create more space is doable, but a hassle. If I did it, I would probably put a FW tank of a different shape under the sink, since that is nearby for plumbing purposes, and is space I don't use that much of.
 
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