Official 240 Sundancer Thread

Dave in Wisconsin said:
Wow - explain for a newbie like me, how exactly it happened. Obviously some big waves were involved?
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A big following sea, and to much speed. I simply overrun the wave in front of me to fast, and stuck the bow into the next wave. I was running about 28-30mph at the time.....in 4-6ft following. It takes alot of concentration to run fast in a following sea. Alot of watching the wave form, and looking for the "drop off". Sometimes the waves all match up and create a "hole" in the water in front of you. A boat doesn't have brakes so you launch off the wave.

I saw it comming but couldn't do anything except dump the throttle and brace for shock. It was my fault. (to fast for conditions) It's a weird feeling being in the air, and watching your anchor stick into the wave, then the bow go under, then the wash of water over the top! Your blinded for a couple of seconds by the water flying everywhere. The biggest challenge is keeping the boat straight so you don't get broached. Get your direction and get back on the throttle. Most folks don't have the gumption to throttle back up after something like this happens and is why they get into trouble. The damage is going to be the damage. Get safe then freak out.

You've seen a race boat do it, the boat jumps off the wave and then submarines into the next. They are running so fast usually it seperates the hull to deck joint and then the game is up.

Hope that gives you a visual.
 
Re: Dash panels ready

zeehond_nl said:
@ Islandhopper....Yes I have....

gr Marco
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That's cool, shocker for me given the limited space for one. I'm inclined to ask how in the world you did that but then it wouldn't translate to my boat anyways.
I like mods, specially ones that people tell you you can't do! haha Nice.
 
Were you able to find the problem? I am having the same issue?

RichG said:
I am currently troubleshooting a leak in the bow that pools around the shower/AC drain sump below the step. One suggestion was to look at the fresh water tank and/or connections. Can someone tell me the best way to access the tank? I assume you need to dismantle the interior bow area?
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I am having a problem with water under my step surrounding the sump box. I have removed everything to view the leak and it honestly seams to be seaping up from the floor bottom/fiberglass. Has anyone ever seen this at all? I am frustrated........
 
skieffner said:
I am having a problem with water under my step surrounding the sump box. I have removed everything to view the leak and it honestly seams to be seaping up from the floor bottom/fiberglass. Has anyone ever seen this at all? I am frustrated........
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My standard answer for this issue is your shower sump drain box and pump, under the step. Do you have A/C? Do you notice it overnight?

I changed mine to the box that the 260da uses and problem solved. It is a larger box, and better float switch set up. I think the box that comes with the 240da is to shallow. It doesn't let the float switch operate correctly. My problem was the a/c condensate drains to the box also. SLOWLY. So slow in fact that the float doesn't let the mercury slide over to energize the pump. If I knocked on the sump box before it overflowed the pump would come on and empty out.

So the problem was, the pump wouldn't energize so the box would overflow. Yes there is an overflow on your box. Look at the side where the wires go into the box. one of the "tubes" doesn't have a wire going into it, that is probably the overflow. Take the drain lid off and pour water into it untill it overflows, you'll see which one it is then. Pour slowly so the pump doesn't kick on. There are other things that drain to the shower sump.

After the box overflows, and the forward bilge fills up, the carpet for the cabin actually hangs in the forward bilge. The water wicks up into the carpet and walla wet carpet in the floor of the cabin.

Check it out, might be your problem. Yes I changed out the stock box for a stock box only to have the same issue. The 260da box fixed my issue.

Hope you figure out your problem. Mike
 
Yikes - sounds lively - good to hear that the boat cold withstand it so well. I've got a lot to learn but am enjoying mine tremendously.
 
I believe the 2006 era 240da will take alot more than you and I can. The sound that the boat makes when it lands back in the water is tremendous. You can hear it very well, when the boat running next to you does it.

The Sea Ray engineers redesigned this hull to take more offshore pounding, they raised the offshore capabilities.

BUT........

That is also the reason this hull is so tender in a calm water senerio. I believe 2006 era hull is much more tender than the 05 and older hulls. (in calm water).
I watched the 2010 (new design) Sea Ray 280da w/8.1 merc engine, not do as well as my boat. he tried to follow me and just could not keep up. He remarked to me on the VHF that he thought it looks as though I took the waves better than he, which explains why he kept slowing down. He kept asking if I was pounding badly, once in awhile I did but mostly let the hull slice thru the waves. I don't know if it was the experience level, or that I'm used to taking a beating, or design of the hull.
 
Aw c'mon Mike you know you're just a throttle jockey. You're like me... want to see all that water splay away from the bow.

Somewhere in Boston Whaler video archives there is film of me and my 18' Outrage "flying" back to Edgartown in 6-8 ft following seas. That was and is my happiest moment (sober) on a boat.
 
sdarc said:
Aw c'mon Mike you know you're just a throttle jockey. You're like me... want to see all that water splay away from the bow.

Somewhere in Boston Whaler video archives there is film of me and my 18' Outrage "flying" back to Edgartown in 6-8 ft following seas. That was and is my happiest moment (sober) on a boat.
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Haha, your probably right. I sort of like the challenge of running in bad conditions.
 
Here's a question - what does one do about lightening? Is the 240 grounded? For example, is the metal in the railing, windshield, etc. connected by low resistance wiring to the engine block and ultimately the lower drive? Is the marine antennae also grounded? I don't recall reading anything about this in the manual. What do folks do if caught out in open water during a thunderstorm?
 
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Dave in Wisconsin said:
Here's a question - what does one do about lightening? Is the 240 grounded? For example, is the metal in the railing, windshield, etc. connected by low resistance wiring to the engine block and ultimately the lower drive? Is the marine antennae also grounded? I don't recall reading anything about this in the manual. What do folks do if caught out in open water during a thunderstorm?
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Put the antenna down, go down below and pray.
 
Re: Factory Cooler ?

Didn't make it to the boat this past weekend, but hope to get out this Sunday. Will try got the picture them.
 
Re: Factory Cooler ?

groundchuck said:
Pasquarello,
It sounds you have basically the same layout that I have. From what I have seen on youtube and pics and such the 2010 and 11 are bascially identical as far as the trim and such goes. If you have a picture that would be great. I also checked in the engine compartment and you are right that there is a perfect spot for a cooler on the starboard side. Great idea! I will have to see if I can get one in that same spot.:thumbsup:

I ordered the White Igloo Yukon 50qt cooler online and I saw that they have a decent cushion top for it. I think that's a great idea to put a cushoin on top as well. That could add a good seating spot for kids I think.
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Didn't make it to the boat this past weekend, but hope to get out this Sunday. Will try got the picture them.
 
I received the Signature 4x4 propeller set. I put them on and tried them out. I have to think about the results before I endorse or condemn them.

Initially I tried a 18" set, and they were to small. Ran out of RPM before I ran out of throttle.

This 20" set won't let the motor spin up to full RPM range 4600-5000rpm (this set gives 4500rpm). What gives. There is not an inbetween 19" set to choose. The hole shot is the same as the Merc three blade sets. So no improvement there. The top end speed is much lower at 35mph for 4x4 verses Merc three blades at 39-40mph. The improvement is in the cruise range where at 3800rpm for the 4x4 is 29-30 mph, verses the merc set is 26-27 mph. So, my initial reaction is, the 4x4 set is not worth $1200.00 for the cruise improvement.

Right now the jury is still out for me. I think I have to do alittle more reasearch.
 
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Nehalennia said:
Is the Signature set not made by Merc? Doesn't Merc make a set that has a 4 blade in the front and 3 blade in the back?

EDIT: Yes they do., http://www.mercurymarine.com/propellers/elite/bravo-three/
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No Signature is not Merc. Merc does make a four blade front and three blade rear Todd, but I bought the Signature set after speaking to them (Chad) and he sounded so confidant. Plus the Signature set is 4 blade front AND rear.

I just got off the phone with Chad and he is going to have the cup removed from the rear prop to let it spin up some more rpm. In other words, Chad said he will do what ever it takes to get this set right. I just pay for shipping. I think thats commendable.

So as I said before, untill I get this set right, I'll wait to make judgement.
 
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