Official 270 Amberjack thread (2005+)

Hi folks..has anyone updated their gps/fish finder? I want to use the cut out on the helm but I am having trouble finding one that fits. Any help is appreciated
 
Just for reference - I was able to get a Garmin 4208 to fit with some very minor trimming of the fiberglass surround. The plastic panel was trimmer very aggressively though.

The 4208 is long discontinued but you could get a template and look for something within that footprint.
 
b_arrington said:
Just for reference - I was able to get a Garmin 4208 to fit with some very minor trimming of the fiberglass surround. The plastic panel was trimmer very aggressively though.

The 4208 is long discontinued but you could get a template and look for something within that footprint.
Click to expand...
Thx Brad!
 
My Girl said:
Thx Brad!
Click to expand...
Here’s a pic.
EC017838-5B38-42AD-A3E2-6492206E7796.jpeg
 
I installed a Raymarine Axiom 9. They make an adapter bracket to install in place of the old C70 unit. Minor trimming required.
IMG_0489.jpg
Capture.JPG
 
We purchased a 2005 Amberjack last year. I was able to pick it up for a decent price. I LOVE IT! Since we live near the Chesapeake Bay in Maryland, you almost need to have a boat here. I was looking for a Sea Ray but I didn't know what the Amberjack was. It was the perfect boat for us since I love to fish!!! WE GOT REALLY LUCKY!!!

Side note: I am including the links for the replacement parts. I do NOT make any money by doing this, just trying to make it easier for everyone to find them.

The options that was installed in the boat (guessing from factory):
Fishing Package
Garmin 3006C (Original with boat)
Garmin Radar (Original with boat)
Raymarine 215 VHF Radio (Original with boat)

I hope the changes / upgrades / repairs will help others. We've gone through some learning curves with them. I will try to provide pictures if I have them.

Electronics Upgrades:
Bluetooth Aux Attachment for Stereo
Garmin GPSMAP 943xsv Chartplotter (with Garmin GT56UHD-TM Transducer)
Garmin GPS 24xd (better GPS Resolution)
Bennett Trim Tab System with the ATP Controller (See write-up below)

Repairs:
Cabin Deck Hatch Arms (Parts Manual calls them: ARM, DECK HATCH ADJ 20X20):
Sea Ray Part Manual says to contact "Taylor" for any Hatch Parts (Pages 2 & 3)
Taylor Made Products is the company (Replacement Arms)
Our Amberjack uses: Ultra II arm (compare them to the ones in your boat)
I actually purchased them thru Amazon

Helm Toggle Switches (Purchased from searay-parts.com):
1 x Double-Pole Switch with Light (Special Sea Ray - SR Blue Lens) - for Running Lights
6 x Single-Pole Switch with Light (Special Sea Ray - SR Blue Lens) - for everything else

Backplate for new Garmin Chartplotter:
A friend told me about a Plastics Fabricator in Annapolis, MD.
They used a CNC Machine to make the New Helm Mounting Plate for the Garmin 943xsv.
Talk to Billy. He's a really nice guy and will help you with any of the Plastics on the AJ!

Mercruiser 383 Drop-in Engine (the NEW Replacement for the 6.2L)

Since this has become so long, I will post the installation/repair notes in my next posting.


64859732065__BEA05851-1FAD-42EA-942E-C440A7ED2B66.jpeg



IMG_1687.jpeg
IMG_1732.jpeg
 
2005 Sea Ray Amberjack Upgrade / Repair notes continued...

Engine Troubles
The first challenge we had with the boat occurred a little over a month after the purchase. I was starting to enter the Chesapeake Bay from a Tributary. The SmartCraft was sounding an alarm. The boat died twice. Having experience as a Mechanic, I was watching the Temperature and Oil Pressure Gauges. Nothing was showing up on them. On the 3rd startup, I heard a rod knock. Knowing the sound very well, I called TowBoatUS. The boat shop and I tried several ways to diagnose the motor. But, it was decided it had to come out. We got the motor to the house and mounted to an engine stand.
After pulling the oil pan, we discovered that it was 2 main bearings. The main bearings had gotten so hot that the crankshaft and the block was discolored. After performing several days researching the web, I discovered that they were a total loss! It could not be rebuilt!!!

WARNING: DO NOT PURCHASE EXPENSIVE BOAT PARTS IN FLORIDA UNLESS YOU LIVE THERE! Florida has more boat scams than ANYWHERE in the USA! (According to an online Boat Mechanic that I talked to).

I thought I'd save a couple of thousand dollars with a BRAND NEW MERCRUISER 6.2L Motor from an outfit in Florida. I went to Miami, picked it up, and brought it home. At home, I discovered it was for an Inboard application, not Inboard/Outboard. I didn't think it made a difference. After talking to a GOOD FRIEND of mine the owns a reputable Boat Repair Shop, I found that the Engine Control Module (ECM) and the wiring harness is different. He has a friend that is a Mercruiser Engine designer. The ECM is looking for sensors from the INBOARD Transmission that the I/O Systems don't use.
Long story, short: I was able to return the motor after some hassle and delivering it back to Florida. Then, I ordered a brand new Mercruiser 383 from a Mercruiser Certified Dealer. Mercruiser had a deal with a free a 3-year bumper-to-bumper warranty. Since it was a drop-in replacement, it came with brand new manifolds, alternator, starter, and the works. All covered under the warranty!!! Because this is the first time my wife has boated, this was the EXACT PEICE OF MIND I needed!

Electronic Upgrades
On the 3rd trip after replacing the motor, I saw the old GPS didn't have the correct info. We were on a small tributary that I didn't know. I saw the depth on the Chartplotter was deeper than the actual reading on the depth finder. The water was much shallower than expected. Later, the chartplotter map had an indicator of a sand bar. But, the depth finder was reading over 5 feet. That's when I knew we couldn't trust the "old" chartplotter.
After doing many hours of research, I felt it best to stay with Garmin since the old equipment (GPS Antenna, Radar, Transducer, etc) was Garmin. I didn't want to pay $1800 for a new RADAR at that time. The 943xsv became the answer with the High-Resolution Screen and RADAR support. NOTE: The ECHOMAP and other models will NOT support the RADAR.
I was talking to my friend from the Boat Shop after I ordered the Chartplotter online. He told me, "DO NOT UPGRADE THE FIRMWARE IN THE RADAR if the Chartplotter advises it." He told me that the RADAR will become INOPERABLE if I did.

LESSONS LEARNED from Chartplotter Upgrade
  1. Old Chartplotter was NEMEA 0183 for transmitting info back and forth with the Depth Sounder (Transducer Amplifier), GPS Antenna, and the Raymarine VHF Radio (DSC Emergency Radio Calls - sends the boat location).
  2. New Chartplotter has NEMEA 0183 & 2000. AWESOME, right? NOPE. The NEMEA 0183 provided by the new chartplotter would only talk to 1 of the devices, not all 3. So, I had to buy new GPS Antenna to talk on NEMEA 2000 because: 1) I didn't know the chartplotter has its own GPS (don't know how accurate), 2) I couldn't get the old GPS Antenna to talk to the new chartplotter on the NEMEA 0183 network. I knew I was ok with the Sounder because I was going to replace the Transducer with a new one. Since I couldn't get the old GPS antenna to talk to the new chartplotter with NEMEA 0183, I didn't try to get it to work with the Raymarine VHF. I plan on replacing the VHF next year with a Garmin VHF Radio that has NEMEA 2000 and AIS (Automatic Identification System).
  3. NEMEA 2000 requires a starter kit that comes with cable, t-connectors, terminators, and power cable. It is a "TRUE" network in my mind. The NEMEA 0183 uses serial connections for communications (RS-232).
  4. This Garmin RADAR System uses a true Twisted-Pair Computer Network Connector like in computers but it is waterproof and for Garmin ONLY.
  5. OLD Garmin RADAR seems to be working with the new Chartplotter.
  6. Could NOT use the old Transducer with the new Chartplotter while I was waiting for the Garmin GT56UHD. The GT56 Transducer was on backorder and no one knew when it would come in. The old Transducer was 6-pin and the Garmin 943xsv is 12-pin (with an 8-pin to 12-pin adapter included).
  7. The new chartplotter has almost twice the screen area and takes up less space than the old chartplotter.
Bennett Trim Tab Upgrade
I decided to upgrade the Trim Tab System on the boat because we were having stability issues over 25 MPH. 2005 Sea Ray 270 Amberjack Stability Issues:
  • If there is a cross-wind with the boat, it will list to the side with the wind - especially over 25 MPH.
  • Highly-sensitive to make a turn - especially over 25 MPH. The boat will lean REAL HARD in the direction of the turn. Sometimes, it seemed as it is was going to capsize!
  • It leans in the direction the captain is trying to turn the boat but it doesn't seem to be turning on the horizon. So, the captain turns the wheel more to get the boat to turn. Then, it leans more but it doesn't seem to be turning as one looks at the horizon. Then, it will finally turn but it digs in hard! I expected it because I've had friends with Cigarette-style boats in the past. Most of them are of a "Deep V" configuration like the Amberjack. But, it still scared me the first couple of times.
Why I decided to upgrade to the Automatic Trim (ATP) System:
  • I was (and still hoping) that the Automatic system will handle the List automatically. I have only tried the Automatic Functionality of the ATP several times. Currently, it leans to the opposite direction it should. In other words, when the trim system should lift the port (left) side of the boat, it lifts the starboard (right) side of the boat. Note: I have performed the setup steps 3 to 4 times with the same results. So, I just need to call Bennett. It seems like the only time I remember is when they are closed.
  • I was making the boat more unstable using the trim tabs with the old push-button controller. I can't hear the trim pump working when the boat is running because I wear hearing aids. So, I couldn't tell the position of the tabs. The new Bennett Controllers have LED lights that show the position of the tabs.
  • The basic "rule of thumb" - 1 inch of tab for each foot of length. The tabs installed on our boat are only 12 inches. Per the rule, I wanted to test 24" trim tabs for stabilizing the boat.
LESSONS LEARNED from Trim Tab Upgrade
  1. Moving from a 12" Trim Tabs to 24" Trim Tabs requires drilling new holes in the transom. Once I looked at the 24" tabs up against the 12" tabs, I discovered that I would have to relocate the Actuators. I realized I would have to drill new holes in the transom to center the Actuators on the Tabs. I decided against it. NO NEW HOLES. She is running with 12" Tabs with new Pump, Actuators, and Controller.
  2. The LED indicators was a very good decision. Now, we know where they are and how much to adjust for list!!! Plus, I know where to have them set for the different speeds.
  3. My advice to someone trying to perform the same upgrade: just purchase a kit with the Actuators, Controller, and Wiring. Don't spend the extra money on the tabs.
  4. USE THE TRIM ON THE OUTDRIVE!!! I have found that when the outdrive trim is in the correct position, the boat becomes a lot more stable with the turns. On our boat, it needs to come up just a little bit. I know when it is set correctly and I turn the wheel lightly, the boat actually turns more gently!
  5. Trim Tab Settings (VERY SMALL adjustments for List):
    1. 10-20 mph: FULL DOWN
    2. Trying to Plane: Full Down (Bow Down)
    3. On Plane (below 25 mph): 1/4 to 1/2 down (Bow Down)
    4. On Plane (above 25 mph): FULL UP (Bow UP)
  6. MAKE SMALL STEERING ADJUSTMENTS, harder steering upsets the boat's balance as much!!!
  7. IT IS A VERY DIFFERENT BOAT than I have ever driven before!!! The DEEP-V is AWESOME for cutting thru choppy seas - like the Cigarette-style boats! It digs very hard and very deep in the corners. But, when it comes to rough weather, I wouldn't want to be in the other boats I've owned!
Final Words
This is one of the best built boats that I've owned! Now, that I have over 100 hours on it, I am getting comfortable with the way she handles. She definitely has her quirks. But, if I go out fishing and a sudden storm rolls in, I know I will make it home safely. I've been out fishing in the Chesapeake Bay when a 22-25MPH wind has suddenly shown up at night unexpectedly (NOAA didn't forecast it either). The waves were 3-4 feet. With a great deal of common-sense and seamanship, I was able to get us home safely without incident.
Its little over 8 miles from the slip to one of my favorite fishing holes. I can go out fishing all day with trolling. When I get home, I check the fuel used on the SmartGauge system. It's only used 20-25 gallons. I feel that's pretty good considering her size and amenities.

HAPPY BOATING!!!
 
Crossr1,
You were spot on with the way the boat handles. Its a chore to drive this boat at times. I said it once and I'll say it again. Its a lake boat at best. Where I boat on LI it's very congested on the water. Some day are better than others. I try to go out during the week (less boat traffic). The fleet is out on the weekends. Boat wakes come from all different directions. Get caught in one and this boat has a mind of it own. Had me more than one occasion leaning so bad I had to pull back on the throttle to get out of it. I've tried different trim settings on the drive and tabs. Its always the same. Sucks...I have learned to live with it and owned this boat for 12 years. Bottom line is my wife likes the cabin. I like to fish. Its a trade off. Is it a nice boat (pretty)? Yes. Would I buy another. That would be no.
 
Recently replaced KEC 9" flip down TV with 15.1" Supersonic thanks to the excellent resources on tv upgrades in this forum. Grandkids approve lol. Sponge Bob movie.

20210805_164555.jpg
20210805_164722.jpg
20210821_114612.jpg
 
@dan313 - Agreed

dbaker526 - I love it! Great idea for the Kids!!!
 
crossr1 said:
2005 Sea Ray Amberjack Upgrade / Repair notes continued...

Engine Troubles
The first challenge we had with the boat occurred a little over a month after the purchase. I was starting to enter the Chesapeake Bay from a Tributary. The SmartCraft was sounding an alarm. The boat died twice. Having experience as a Mechanic, I was watching the Temperature and Oil Pressure Gauges. Nothing was showing up on them. On the 3rd startup, I heard a rod knock. Knowing the sound very well, I called TowBoatUS. The boat shop and I tried several ways to diagnose the motor. But, it was decided it had to come out. We got the motor to the house and mounted to an engine stand.
After pulling the oil pan, we discovered that it was 2 main bearings. The main bearings had gotten so hot that the crankshaft and the block was discolored. After performing several days researching the web, I discovered that they were a total loss! It could not be rebuilt!!!

WARNING: DO NOT PURCHASE EXPENSIVE BOAT PARTS IN FLORIDA UNLESS YOU LIVE THERE! Florida has more boat scams than ANYWHERE in the USA! (According to an online Boat Mechanic that I talked to).

I thought I'd save a couple of thousand dollars with a BRAND NEW MERCRUISER 6.2L Motor from an outfit in Florida. I went to Miami, picked it up, and brought it home. At home, I discovered it was for an Inboard application, not Inboard/Outboard. I didn't think it made a difference. After talking to a GOOD FRIEND of mine the owns a reputable Boat Repair Shop, I found that the Engine Control Module (ECM) and the wiring harness is different. He has a friend that is a Mercruiser Engine designer. The ECM is looking for sensors from the INBOARD Transmission that the I/O Systems don't use.
Long story, short: I was able to return the motor after some hassle and delivering it back to Florida. Then, I ordered a brand new Mercruiser 383 from a Mercruiser Certified Dealer. Mercruiser had a deal with a free a 3-year bumper-to-bumper warranty. Since it was a drop-in replacement, it came with brand new manifolds, alternator, starter, and the works. All covered under the warranty!!! Because this is the first time my wife has boated, this was the EXACT PEICE OF MIND I needed!

Electronic Upgrades
On the 3rd trip after replacing the motor, I saw the old GPS didn't have the correct info. We were on a small tributary that I didn't know. I saw the depth on the Chartplotter was deeper than the actual reading on the depth finder. The water was much shallower than expected. Later, the chartplotter map had an indicator of a sand bar. But, the depth finder was reading over 5 feet. That's when I knew we couldn't trust the "old" chartplotter.
After doing many hours of research, I felt it best to stay with Garmin since the old equipment (GPS Antenna, Radar, Transducer, etc) was Garmin. I didn't want to pay $1800 for a new RADAR at that time. The 943xsv became the answer with the High-Resolution Screen and RADAR support. NOTE: The ECHOMAP and other models will NOT support the RADAR.
I was talking to my friend from the Boat Shop after I ordered the Chartplotter online. He told me, "DO NOT UPGRADE THE FIRMWARE IN THE RADAR if the Chartplotter advises it." He told me that the RADAR will become INOPERABLE if I did.

LESSONS LEARNED from Chartplotter Upgrade
  1. Old Chartplotter was NEMEA 0183 for transmitting info back and forth with the Depth Sounder (Transducer Amplifier), GPS Antenna, and the Raymarine VHF Radio (DSC Emergency Radio Calls - sends the boat location).
  2. New Chartplotter has NEMEA 0183 & 2000. AWESOME, right? NOPE. The NEMEA 0183 provided by the new chartplotter would only talk to 1 of the devices, not all 3. So, I had to buy new GPS Antenna to talk on NEMEA 2000 because: 1) I didn't know the chartplotter has its own GPS (don't know how accurate), 2) I couldn't get the old GPS Antenna to talk to the new chartplotter on the NEMEA 0183 network. I knew I was ok with the Sounder because I was going to replace the Transducer with a new one. Since I couldn't get the old GPS antenna to talk to the new chartplotter with NEMEA 0183, I didn't try to get it to work with the Raymarine VHF. I plan on replacing the VHF next year with a Garmin VHF Radio that has NEMEA 2000 and AIS (Automatic Identification System).
  3. NEMEA 2000 requires a starter kit that comes with cable, t-connectors, terminators, and power cable. It is a "TRUE" network in my mind. The NEMEA 0183 uses serial connections for communications (RS-232).
  4. This Garmin RADAR System uses a true Twisted-Pair Computer Network Connector like in computers but it is waterproof and for Garmin ONLY.
  5. OLD Garmin RADAR seems to be working with the new Chartplotter.
  6. Could NOT use the old Transducer with the new Chartplotter while I was waiting for the Garmin GT56UHD. The GT56 Transducer was on backorder and no one knew when it would come in. The old Transducer was 6-pin and the Garmin 943xsv is 12-pin (with an 8-pin to 12-pin adapter included).
  7. The new chartplotter has almost twice the screen area and takes up less space than the old chartplotter.
Bennett Trim Tab Upgrade
I decided to upgrade the Trim Tab System on the boat because we were having stability issues over 25 MPH. 2005 Sea Ray 270 Amberjack Stability Issues:
  • If there is a cross-wind with the boat, it will list to the side with the wind - especially over 25 MPH.
  • Highly-sensitive to make a turn - especially over 25 MPH. The boat will lean REAL HARD in the direction of the turn. Sometimes, it seemed as it is was going to capsize!
  • It leans in the direction the captain is trying to turn the boat but it doesn't seem to be turning on the horizon. So, the captain turns the wheel more to get the boat to turn. Then, it leans more but it doesn't seem to be turning as one looks at the horizon. Then, it will finally turn but it digs in hard! I expected it because I've had friends with Cigarette-style boats in the past. Most of them are of a "Deep V" configuration like the Amberjack. But, it still scared me the first couple of times.
Why I decided to upgrade to the Automatic Trim (ATP) System:
  • I was (and still hoping) that the Automatic system will handle the List automatically. I have only tried the Automatic Functionality of the ATP several times. Currently, it leans to the opposite direction it should. In other words, when the trim system should lift the port (left) side of the boat, it lifts the starboard (right) side of the boat. Note: I have performed the setup steps 3 to 4 times with the same results. So, I just need to call Bennett. It seems like the only time I remember is when they are closed.
  • I was making the boat more unstable using the trim tabs with the old push-button controller. I can't hear the trim pump working when the boat is running because I wear hearing aids. So, I couldn't tell the position of the tabs. The new Bennett Controllers have LED lights that show the position of the tabs.
  • The basic "rule of thumb" - 1 inch of tab for each foot of length. The tabs installed on our boat are only 12 inches. Per the rule, I wanted to test 24" trim tabs for stabilizing the boat.
LESSONS LEARNED from Trim Tab Upgrade
  1. Moving from a 12" Trim Tabs to 24" Trim Tabs requires drilling new holes in the transom. Once I looked at the 24" tabs up against the 12" tabs, I discovered that I would have to relocate the Actuators. I realized I would have to drill new holes in the transom to center the Actuators on the Tabs. I decided against it. NO NEW HOLES. She is running with 12" Tabs with new Pump, Actuators, and Controller.
  2. The LED indicators was a very good decision. Now, we know where they are and how much to adjust for list!!! Plus, I know where to have them set for the different speeds.
  3. My advice to someone trying to perform the same upgrade: just purchase a kit with the Actuators, Controller, and Wiring. Don't spend the extra money on the tabs.
  4. USE THE TRIM ON THE OUTDRIVE!!! I have found that when the outdrive trim is in the correct position, the boat becomes a lot more stable with the turns. On our boat, it needs to come up just a little bit. I know when it is set correctly and I turn the wheel lightly, the boat actually turns more gently!
  5. Trim Tab Settings (VERY SMALL adjustments for List):
    1. 10-20 mph: FULL DOWN
    2. Trying to Plane: Full Down (Bow Down)
    3. On Plane (below 25 mph): 1/4 to 1/2 down (Bow Down)
    4. On Plane (above 25 mph): FULL UP (Bow UP)
  6. MAKE SMALL STEERING ADJUSTMENTS, harder steering upsets the boat's balance as much!!!
  7. IT IS A VERY DIFFERENT BOAT than I have ever driven before!!! The DEEP-V is AWESOME for cutting thru choppy seas - like the Cigarette-style boats! It digs very hard and very deep in the corners. But, when it comes to rough weather, I wouldn't want to be in the other boats I've

HAPPY BOATING!!!
Click to expand...
Thank you for sharing. Very informative!
 
Hello, super thankful for this thread! I’m having sone issues with my boat and I’m hoping this thread can offer some help. The issue I’m having is I can’t seem to get up on plane very well or get the speed or rpm’s that others seem to be getting. I seem to be maxing out at 3500-3700 RPM’s and 21-22 knots. This was with a full tank of gas and 3 adults onboard. When the weather/wind picked up and we started driving into it, we could only get 12-14knots and 3200 RPMs. I do have a 9.9hirse kicker mounted at the back middle of my swim grid (see photo). Even when trimmed completely up, it can drag while getting out of the hole, which obviously doesn’t help the situation. That being said, I feel like I should still be able to get out of the hole even with 3-4 adults and a full tank on board.

A bit more about my boat for context:
- 2006 6.2 Mercruiser (350hp) with 600 hours
- boat was bottom painted and only went in the water 3 weeks ago so I’m ruling out bottom growth (although has caused me trouble before)
- when first starting, in prime conditions the boat was maxing out 14 knots for a couple minutes then seemed to slowly rise to 21-22 knots. One of my passengers moved up into the cuddy and that seemed to help us get up
- the fuel tank was half full throughout the winter and I filled it up 3 weeks ago before I launched it. We changed the fuel filter before launching. The boat was having this issue last September before I pulled it so I don’t think it is bad gas but I am thinking of putting in a few cans of Sea Foam just as maintenance and to eliminate any potential bad gas.
- mechanic pulled my leg in the winter and did my gimble bearing. We also did a sea trial in March and he scanned the engine for errors and nothing came up. Of course the boat never had any trouble when I took the mechanic out. It did max out at 22knots and the mechanic noted it should be able to give more. He thought it may be the prop but he checked that and it is the correct prop.

At this point my mechanic seems stumped (although he’s a self proclaimed expert in Mercruiser’s). I’ve asked him about bad spark plugs but he seemed skeptical and said if you change 1 you have to change them all?
Thanks for any advice or insight!
 

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One possibility is fouled injectors from the cool fuel units. This is a part that cools the fuel before it gets to the engine to deliver better performance. Units from this era had problems with the paint on the inside of the unit flaking off into the fuel and clogging the fuel injectors.

I had some similar symptoms where I could not get to rated WOT. Having the injectors pulled and serviced plus changing the cool fuel unit resolved them. If you don’t know the history of your cool fuel unit you may want to have the mechanic check it for flaking paint.
 
Good day
Has anyone here replaced the duck bill valves on their Vacuflush? Tough job?
Thanks in advance
 
My Girl said:
Good day
Has anyone here replaced the duck bill valves on their Vacuflush? Tough job?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Yes, that was really one of the easiest jobs I tackled. There are plenty of youtube videos that show just how.
 
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