Official 280 Sundancer Thread

TheBigb said:
Could the boat be that dirty on the bottom?
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Could be, with one engine doing as you described it could be a fouled prop as well or something caught around the drive. If not, you may want to look at doing a tune up. I have seen this same type of problem be solved a number of times by simply replacing the cap and rotor.
 
Yes, a dirty bottom can do this, and it doesn't take all they many barnacles to cause this. The difference between my boat with a dirty bottom and after the pressure wash was like night a day. Of course, I no longer have those problems since I'm on a lake.
 
bajturner said:
What are your RPM at WOT and 29MPH? Is it possible you spun a prop in some sand, mud, or weeds?
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I can get both engines to 4500rpms. I guess anything's possible but I haven't beached the boat or gone anywhere out of the channel. It was fine one weekend and then I came back the next weekend and it wasn't.
 
I'm happy to say I have upgraded from a 260 to a 280...Yeah!

So I will be selling my 260.
 
RonnieP said:
Sorry to tag this to a previous thread but I could not figure out how to start a new one. I just bought an 03 280 Dual Engine with 5.0L Bravo III's. Just about 500 hours on the pair. I bought it from the 2nd owner who seemed to take care of things pretty good. After my third 1 hour boat ride in my area Delta, BC, Canada I noticed red fluid in the bilge on my post ride inspection.
View attachment 32553
Looks most like Transmission fluid but as best I can tell this boat doesn't really have a true transmission. I am contacting a mobile mechanic but would love if anyone has seen this before you let me know. All other fluid levels seem fine. Power Steering, Trim Tab, Coolant etc..

Ron
2003 Sea Ray Sundancer 280 - Lil Dancer
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It can also be from the power steering. There is a cooler for the power steering fluid mounted to the engine near the steering rack. This is a simple hose clamp and barbed fitting. SOmetimes the hose goes bad and leaks.

Henry
 
The plastic container that holds the trim tab fluid on my last boat developed hairline cracks, due to it's age. I was able to buy just the container, and replacing it stopped the leak. Be happy it isn't motor oil, from a deteriorated oil pan, which would require an engine pull. Fortunately, the prior owner of my last boat paid for that repair before I bought the boat.
 
Has anyone had difficulty with thermostats? I have changed thermostats a few times the past year and have a repeat problem of the engines running cold due to the thermostats remaining open. Just had them changed again and the starboard engine seems fine, but the port engine ran cold in the first ride out. Mechanic said gravel in the thermostat again, perhaps residue in the engine??? Any thoughts?
 
When changing the thermostat you need to make sure both gaskets are set correctly. I have had a bit of trouble with the upper one. I also run my engines without a thermostat in place for a couple minutes to help clear everything out before installing the new one.


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RichardB said:
Has anyone had difficulty with thermostats? I have changed thermostats a few times the past year and have a repeat problem of the engines running cold due to the thermostats remaining open. Just had them changed again and the starboard engine seems fine, but the port engine ran cold in the first ride out. Mechanic said gravel in the thermostat again, perhaps residue in the engine??? Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

When changing the thermostat you need to make sure both gaskets are set correctly. I have had a bit of trouble with the upper one. I also run my engines without a thermostat in place for a couple minutes to help clear everything out before installing the new one.


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I am interested in replacing the original anchor on my 2005 280 with a stainless one. Has anyone done this? And are there any fit issues I would need to be concerned with? I like the look of the stainless better.
 
I am having problems with my port front ( red ) running light. It keeps blowing the bulb. I have replaced the bulb 4 times this year. There is nothing that looks strange. I replace the blub, works great for a few times out then blows. No water or anything in the socket. Any ideas on this or has anyone changed out the running lights to LED? Sometimes it blows the minute its turned on and then last night it was on for an hour then blew.
 
gsmallwood said:
I am having problems with my port front ( red ) running light. It keeps blowing the bulb. I have replaced the bulb 4 times this year. There is nothing that looks strange. I replace the blub, works great for a few times out then blows. No water or anything in the socket. Any ideas on this or has anyone changed out the running lights to LED? Sometimes it blows the minute its turned on and then last night it was on for an hour then blew.
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Might be a bad connection or fixture or just cheap bulbs? I switched to LED fixtures and are very happy with them. I went with the Attwood 3500 Series 2NM lights as they are the direct replacement (basically same footprint) as the OEM Attwoods. I also changed the masthead light to Attwood LED and am very happy with that.

Some people have just put an LED bulb in the fixture. I will do that on inside lights all day long but it is obvious the OEM fixtures leak so really dont want water leaking in on LED bulbs that are as critical as NAV lights are.

Here are the links to West marine for reference but you can likely find them cheaper elsewhere.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...Id=-1&searchKeyword=attwood+3500#.Uly2IVPmKZQ


http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&subdeptNum=50580&classNum=50581#.Uly3LVPmKZQ
 
eweise said:
I am interested in replacing the original anchor on my 2005 280 with a stainless one. Has anyone done this? And are there any fit issues I would need to be concerned with? I like the look of the stainless better.
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If you want the best fit you should use a 25lb Kodiak anchor. This is the OEM anchor used on your boat and people have reported problems getting others to fit properly without moving or replacing the chute in a situation where Kodiaks were used and that comes with its own challenges.

Not saying you will not be able to find an alternative to fit but it will be hard. A couple years back someone ran across some cheaper SS anchors that were close enough to the Kodiak to fit reasonably well. All I remember is they were off brand and I believe may have been a lower grade of stainless than Kodiak and the other "name brands" use but don't remember any more. Not sure how they would last, especially in salt. I have seen a 280DA with a Lewmar Delta Galvanized anchor and although it did not fit properly it looked like it would work. The Delta SS should be the same as galvanized. I think you can find them a couple hundred dollars cheaper since they are available from various retailers.

The only place you can buy Kodiak anchors is South Coast Marine in Florida. They do have a SS option. I don't think they have a website. Phone 727-573-4821

When I replaced my anchor a few years back they priced me out a Stainless version at close to $1000.

If you end up with a SS anchor you better make sure you don't loose it. I got one of these after I lost my first anchor. Recommended by someone at CSR. I ended up buying the KONG swivel. It is Stainless steel and I love it. You should need size 1/4"-5/16". West Marine Part number 289274 if you purchase there.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...4&langId=-1&searchKeyword=289274#.UeyppKy-X1U
 
Thanks for the detailed information. That will help me get started on my search.
 
Hi,

Anyone know what size the fuel lines are on a twin 4.3 setup? I am installing fuel flow sensors (with 30 micron pre filters) and would like to get the right size fittings before I cut the pipe.

Thanks
 
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