Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Tony

I have a blue hull. its a beautiful boat when all nice and clean but it shows all the dirt and marks. Its just like owning a black car. I get lots of comments on it even at the end of the season when it needed cleaning.
 
About the colored hulls- I think they look GREAT but there are a few drawbacks that I read about when I was boat shopping. What you have to consider here in the west is Heat. On the inland desert lakes I frequent, the temp routinely pushes 100+. Then add in the reflection from the water and presto- you run the risk of delamination and warping due to the high heat and expansion of the fiberglass. (David Pascoe) I don't think anyone on this forum has had anything bad happen, but the others can chime in. Aside from that, they will also show more water spots if you care about that sort of thing.
 
Then add in the reflection from the water and presto- you run the risk of delamination and warping due to the high heat and expansion of the fiberglass. (David Pascoe)

Can you tell me where I can find Pascoe's comments about this?

(Sometimes I think this guy is over the top a bit:smt021).
 
Silly question here- I'm deciding between twin 4.3's or 5.0's. I've driven the 4.3's only. Do the 5.0's sound much deeper? When I drove the 4.3's it seemed pretty quiet, almost too quiet for me (I guess a bit of redneck in me). My buddy had a 330 with 7.4's and it sounded sweet. Will the 5.0's satisfy the redneck in me? Thanks,
Tony
 
On the warping comment from David Pascoe...
When I was boat shopping, I bought his book "Midsize Power Boats", that quote about warping, while paraphrased, is in there. I'll find the exact phrase and post it. I agree Dave, some of his stuff is a little over the top but I figure he's just like any safety inspector--overzealous-- surveyors have to be, they can be liable if they don't give you all the maybe's. Overall, it's a book worth owning for someone who is researching.
 
I have the 5.0's and they sound pretty deep and fairly loud. But from the threads here the 4.3's are more economical and the 496 mag is 1000x easier to work on. All three power packages will work, with certain strengths and weaknesses for each- Search twin vs single--ugg--
Whatever you get, you could probably make it louder by removing the exhaust bellows/tube. Also, the cockpit carpeting dampens the engine noise considerably.
 
Factory Subwoofer Location?

I plan on upgrading the speakers in the cockpit and adding a subwoofer in the spring on my 280DA. Where is the factory installed subwoofer located for those that have it? Also, is it an enclosed subwoofer or the "free air" type? What size is it?

Thanks.
 
The factory installed sub. on my 2005 is behind the driver's seat. It is cut into the console that holds the sink and "cooler". It is a free air design, hole cut into the panel that faces the drivers' seat open to the back. The cabinet space under the sink/"cooler" were the factory supplied ice-chest sits acts as the "box" giving it a little more bass kick.
 
The factory installed sub. on my 2005 is behind the driver's seat. It is cut into the console that holds the sink and "cooler". It is a free air design, hole cut into the panel that faces the drivers' seat open to the back. The cabinet space under the sink/"cooler" were the factory supplied ice-chest sits acts as the "box" giving it a little more bass kick.

Do you happen to have any pictures -- from the outside and inside the cabinet? I, too, am upgrading my speakers in the spring and would like to see the factory setup.

For those of us without the factory sub, I heard rumors that the wire for the sub is tucked somewhere in the mid-berth -- anyone know if this is true? If so, where is it?
.
 
I'll post some pics of the sub this weekend....I haven't traced any wires but i'll get some pics of the amps as well they're behind the mirror in the mid-berth.
 
Just completed the purchase of an 05 280DA two weeks ago. Still trying to get everything situated.

I really like it so far except for-

Engine Room Space. How in the world do you clean the A/C strainer? And yes- I know where it is. :huh:

Overall it has a ton more space than my 225WE and gives a great ride. The Blue hull looks great, and I have some good advice from a fellow CSR member to keep it looking good. Luckily I have a covered slip so I am sure that will help.

I was actually looking at a 300DA when they showed me this boat. I am glad I went with the 280. A friend has a 300 and it is great but I think the 280 will give me more flexability to do limited tubing, etc and give me better gas mileage than a 300. I believe my next step will probably be to a 310 or 340 but that will be awhile :grin:

Anyway, thanks to all the CSR members who answered questions and a special thanks to Dave S for all the help!


Jason
 
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Here are the pic's of the factory install.
1.Inside the cabinet
2.Behind the driver seat
3.Amps in the mid-berth(behind the mirrors)
4.6.5's above the sink
5.In the entry walk
6.Next tothe lounger
7.Back by the battery switches
-Special thanks for those who pm'd me on how to get these pic's up.
--Kevin
 
Kevin -- thanks for the pics. Those are very helpful. I was curious about the depth of the sub and to see how much I need to adjust my cooler mounts in order to make room. Not to mention, this is the only factory sub I've seen in a 280.

Thanks again.
.
 
I am looking to buy a 2005 or newer 280. Are the 5.0's a must, or do the 4.3's handle the boat?
 
I have the 4.3's and typically have 5 adults on board when I am out. It gets on plane quickly and has no problems with lack of power.

Good luck on your next purchase.
 
Jason, congratulations on your purchase. I guess you will learn how to position yourself in the ER to remove the top of the strainer and get access to the basket. If you do your own winterizing, you have to pull the inlet hose off to run the pink stuff through it also, equally as fun. I doubt you will have to do that where you are located though :)
 
Bad IAC?

Hello everyone. I went to winterize my 4.3's last weekend. I started with the port side, I warmed it up, changed the oil, restarted, checked for leaks, then ran AF thru it using my 5Gal bucket with muffs. All seemed well. Switched the muffs to the starboard side. Fired it up. Ran for a few minutes, then died. Fired it back up and it cut right off. Will not start, even giving some throttle. When turning on the key, fuel pump seems to run longer than it did on the port engine. Waiting for a second hand to check the spark. Fuel tank is full, oil is full, outdrive fluid is in normal range. My first thoughts are the IAC or the distributor module. Anything else I should check?
Thanks,
Mike
 
Re: Bad IAC?

Hello everyone. I went to winterize my 4.3's last weekend. I started with the port side, I warmed it up, changed the oil, restarted, checked for leaks, then ran AF thru it using my 5Gal bucket with muffs. All seemed well. Switched the muffs to the starboard side. Fired it up. Ran for a few minutes, then died. Fired it back up and it cut right off. Will not start, even giving some throttle. When turning on the key, fuel pump seems to run longer than it did on the port engine. Waiting for a second hand to check the spark. Fuel tank is full, oil is full, outdrive fluid is in normal range. My first thoughts are the IAC or the distributor module. Anything else I should check?
Thanks,
Mike

Mike, sorry to hear about your troubles.

I recommend the following

#1) Post your question here with a descriptive title
http://clubsearay.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=21
This post above is many pages deep talking about 280 Sundancers only.

#2) if you took it out of gear and added throttle as you describe I don’t think it’s the IAC.

#3) Just to repeat your symptoms back to you for verification, the engine does turn over, it simply will not start and it has adequate fuel, correct?

I'd try it with much more throttle just to rule that out. When my IAC went out I think I was at about half throttle or just over to start the engine with the IAC issue. As soon as it fired up I pulled back.
 
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Pres, It will not start, even with giving it throttle. It almost seems like it wants to fire when first turning it over, but nada.
I was wondering if I could switch the IAC from the other engine?
Thanks,
Mike
 

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