Official 320 Dancer Thread

Jerroz said:
And yes, I do have a little water in the bilge which also recently appeared. It was dry earlier in the summer. I dont use the water heater though and am pretty sure it doesnt have water in it (not even sure how to fill it).
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This is a huge clue to the puzzle. This more sounds like a water heater leak to me (but I hope I'm wrong for your sake). I'm not an expert, but I'm thinking that WH fills up not when you fill the fresh water tank but as soon as you open hot water side of any faucet. If there’s no hot water it’ll start spitting air until it’s filled with water.

So, take a closer look around the WH and see if there’s any evidence of leak, slightly rusted screws, etc. I’d say that 4year for a WH is about the time for them to start giving troubles. I had to replace mine in 240DA and now in 320DA when the age of WH was about the same 4-5yrs.
 
The water heater in my 1988 300 Weekender went for about 7-8 years without leaking. I had the original replaced with a stainless one and it was still working fine when I sold the boat this year at 21 years of age (the boat, not me!) One WH replacement in 21 years is a good thing.
 
Bob, this is simply reminds me that whatever was built many years ago was much better quality compare to anything they build now days. I'm sure there are plenty of people with more positive results than I had with my two heaters on different boats. So, I was just expressing what was my experience.
 
Before you start tearing into things, you might just have air in the lines. Open each facet one at a time and let them run for a bit. Do each one. Chances are the problem will go away after you finish.

Unless it is bypassed or shut off at the fresh water manifold, your hot water tank should be full - it draws water from the freshwater supply. I have had one of the fittings on the manifold leak, so it is worth looking in that area with a flashlight. The manifold is located on the bulkhead just forward of the water heater. The water heater is located on the port side forward of the engine compartment - you can't miss it, it is a white box with various hoses running to it. The fresh water pump is mounted above the water heater. BTW, a leaking manifold could also be the cause of your pump issue.

-CJ
 
Just a note on something that baffeled me for a year. I had air that would keep getting in my lines and could not find the source. I checked every outlet, fitting, hose, WH, Manifold..you name it. The problem turned out to be the fitting on the water tank itself located under the aft cabin seat. One of the fittings had a hairline crack and while it showed no signs of leaking it did suck air when the pump was activated. I replaced it and now have better water pressure than comming off the dock.
 
Waite N' Sea,

Thanks for sharing such a strange and puzzled discovery. I wander if there was any air sipping sound coming out of the spot. How did you finally found it?
 
I had given up hope and was about to replace the pump when I realized the only thing I didn't check was the supply line to the water tank. So I went to the source where the water was drawn from. Bingo...If there was any sound I never heard it being buried under the back seat. The crack itself was on the bottom side of the coupling and you could not see it by just looking. I took the whole assembly out which is a screw or two and when I looked at the bottom, I said " you gotta be sh**#@ me". This drove me nuts for over a year as all the faucets spitted air when on tank water. What I learned from all this....start at the source.
 
Waite N' Sea said:
The crack itself was on the bottom side of the coupling and you could not see it by just looking.
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Do you think that since the crack was at the bottom it could have let some water through it while filling the FW tank? I guess it's possible that some more pressure might be required to have any leak, but I just wander if you've seen any spils in that storage compartment where you access the fitting.
 
When I checked it, it was dry, but that's not to say there wasn't water in that area before I looked. I hated to use the system simply because it spit air and made a mess. This was on a day where I had nothing better to do and just happen to fiind the problem...I did celebrate with a victory dance in the cabin...good thing it was a weekday and nobody around.
 
Hi there 320 Sundancer owners. Can anyone tell me which Weaver snap davit for my swim platform and 8.5 foot dinghy?
 
I don't know about Weaver, but I put a Nautley Davit system on my 320... Other 320 owners use Hurley, Weaver and Nautley too so I'm sure you will get some info on all of them.

Barry
 
Thanks Barry...appreciate the comeback.
 
I thinking to upgrade from my 300 to a nice used 320.
Not sure about engines 350 Mag MX 6.2 or 496 Mag.??:smt100

My current 300 Sundancer has 5.0 MPI which is just fine, but when fully loaded (Fuel, Water, foodstuff, beer:grin: and 3 poeple), she needs quite a bit of time to get on plane.
Top speed is ok 42-44 mh

I tend to go for the MX 6.2 in 320
Any body can advise?
What a about fuel consumption?

My current 300 needs little less then 1 NMG on a average speed of 24 nmh.
 
I went form 300 TO A 320 TWO SEASONS AGO...BELIEVE IT OR NOT ITS A LOT MORE BOAT. Our boat came with 5.7 Horizons and V-drives...handles great around the docks, backs well and strait. Gets up on plain fine but no longer feels like a speed boat. Requires full trim most of the to keep the bow down and the running angle comfortable. Gas milage is definatly aroun .85 MPG. Good luck
 
Each larger size boat is a lot more boat, but talk about 2-foot itis! If the 320 will be the last boat you'll ever need, then go for it. But if it's a just a stepping stone, skip that step and save a ton of money and hassle. If you have to wait an extra season or two, I think it would be well worth it.
 
Hampton said:
Each larger size boat is a lot more boat, but talk about 2-foot itis! If the 320 will be the last boat you'll ever need, then go for it. But if it's a just a stepping stone, skip that step and save a ton of money and hassle. If you have to wait an extra season or two, I think it would be well worth it.
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The thing is, you never plan a purchase of a boat as stepping stone. The desire of a bigger one comes always when with the current one:grin:.
But somehow I think, the 320 is the last size I would get into for economically reasons. Cost in boating are not rising linear. They rising to the second² :wow:
 
Uwe said:
Not sure about engines 350 Mag MX 6.2 or 496 Mag.
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I don't remember if this is the same thread, but there were number of discussions on this. I don't have in it boockmarked, so try the search funcion. In short, I think that 90% of 320 owners, including myself, will tell you that 5.7MPI with v-drives is pretty good combination. I don't feel that the boat is underpowered at all. After 2 seasons I can tell you that I never had the time when I felt that it needed more horses, regardless of the load I had. She usually likes to stay in 3650-3750RPMs range running at 25-27MPH burning 25-26GPH. I used to bring the RPMs to 4000 to get her on plane and then back off to cruising range. But, had noticed lately that she doesn't need that much. Just yesterday I had 3 adults and 3 kids, full water and 1/3 or fuel, I got her on plane very gently starting from 2000RPMs, followed by 3000RPMs and then 3500RPMs. I usually use full tabs when I'm off plane (just a habit of how I start slowing down before coming off plane), which helps to get her on plane as well. The "gently geting on plane" method I find is better for the boat and it only takes extra 5 or so seconds. I've herd on many occasions that 6.2 will give you slightly more power at the top end, which you shouldn't be in anyway, so that's why it's almost unnoticeble. If you need to jump out of the hole really fast this may be wrong boat for you. She tops around 35MPH, so as you can see this is not a speed boat, rather a pleasure cruiser.

BTW, the numbers I gave you are for V-Drive configuration. Stern drive gives different and slightly better performance, but that's another topic.

We love our 320, but we had considered 300 prior getting ours. Although, it's a matter of preference, but IMHO from 300 to 320 is not a logical move, specially if you doing this from economical reasons. I agree with advice above, keep your boat for couple of more seasons and you might get much better idea what should be best next move from 300.

Good luck,
Alex.
 
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Alex F said:
......... Although, it's a matter of preference, but IMHO from 300 to 320 is not a logical move, specially if you doing this from economical reasons. I agree with advice above, keep your boat for couple of more seasons and you might get much better idea what should be best next move from 300.

Good luck,
Alex.
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Thanks for your detailed information and advises:smt001
Boating and burning 1 GPM, same 10 cars together at the same time is not logical at all. I rather refer to other, personal circumstances such as my marina. They can handle boats only with max beam of 11,5 feet. Anything bigger and I would need to change marina. At my current marina, I pay about 1800 U$ for storage (dry storage:smt038) Other marinas charging double or even triple. Further, I live in Germany. The boat would arrive at Bremerhaven and it needs land tarnsport to croatia. (about 1000 miles accross 3 countries). European law allows special transport with max. beam of 11,5" without major authority approval. (Only registered transport) More beam then 11.5" means special road escort in 3 countries, transport approval 1 month in advance, and only using the roads at night. Means, the costs are just exploding.
11.5" beam is the magic figure!!!
That's what I meant with economical reasons.

BTW 1" in beam and 2" in length is pretty noticeable upgrade in a boat IMHO
 
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I found something interesting the other day that I never realized. You can flush your engines with fresh water while sitting in salt water. Of all the years of owning a boat, I never heard of being able to do that with a mercruiser equipped with V drives sitting in salt water.
It is really simple to do, shut off the seacock to one engine, on top of the riser you will see the blue plugs, one end is a hose attachment and the other is just a plug, pull the plug out, insert the other plug with fresh water supply hose attached, turn on the hose, start engine within 15 seconds. Flush till engine hits normal running temp, kill the engine and shut off the water within 15 seconds. Repeat for the second engine. Remember to open seacock when you are finished.
I am either the last to know this or lucky enough to find the info and pass it on. Either way its good to know you can flush your engines while sitting in salt water.
Good Luck
 
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