Thanks, those look sweet, are they self draining ? Also where did you pick them up ?
Official 380 Thread
- Thread starter Pseudomind
- Start date
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- Tags
- zf hsw800
osd9
New Member
Talked about them back here....
- Feb 14, 2009
- 1,361
- Boat Info
- '07 42SS Carver, full electronics array
'03 380DA, RL80C+, ST7001, Kohl 7.3,4kw o/array sold
- Engines
- 8.1S Crusader express drives
In the process of commissioning this weekend, we attacked cleaning the air conditioner vent filters. I am posting this because I didn't find any references to these on a search.
The AC filter under the bed is pretty simple...lift the front of the bed and pull it out from the front. While it was pretty bad, the AC filter in the galley was AWFUL! Looked like it had NEVER been cleaned and had probably a 3/8 inch of dust on it. Getting to it was not intuitive. You think that you need to go through the access door for the AC under the sofa cushion (which I tried). And you find that there is in fact a metal piece that resembles the front filter...however, when you try to lift it, you find that access is blocked by the sofa frame. You might then (as I did), unscrew the entire damn AC unit to move it to facilitate access to the filter...grumbling all the way...only to find that the metal piece is only an aluminum baffle to connect the air hose to the vent. Further investigation...after a beer...would reflect that the presumably immovable front vent-is in fact movable. A small screwdriver can slide tiny nylon bushings at the top and bottom. Behind the vent is a filter. Take it out, hose it down, and air volume increases noticeably.
Doing it my way takes about 2 hours. If you are smarter, and just lift the bed, and pop open the front vent, pull both and squirt them off with a hose on the dock, it is about a five minute project...including beer.
The AC filter under the bed is pretty simple...lift the front of the bed and pull it out from the front. While it was pretty bad, the AC filter in the galley was AWFUL! Looked like it had NEVER been cleaned and had probably a 3/8 inch of dust on it. Getting to it was not intuitive. You think that you need to go through the access door for the AC under the sofa cushion (which I tried). And you find that there is in fact a metal piece that resembles the front filter...however, when you try to lift it, you find that access is blocked by the sofa frame. You might then (as I did), unscrew the entire damn AC unit to move it to facilitate access to the filter...grumbling all the way...only to find that the metal piece is only an aluminum baffle to connect the air hose to the vent. Further investigation...after a beer...would reflect that the presumably immovable front vent-is in fact movable. A small screwdriver can slide tiny nylon bushings at the top and bottom. Behind the vent is a filter. Take it out, hose it down, and air volume increases noticeably.
Doing it my way takes about 2 hours. If you are smarter, and just lift the bed, and pop open the front vent, pull both and squirt them off with a hose on the dock, it is about a five minute project...including beer.
Thanks Dom, have several options now.
Buffalo Soldier
New Member
Hey guys,
I'm very interested in putting some Nautley davits on my 2006 38 DA. I'm concerned about access to the transom door being right in the middle of the platform. Nautley recommends the Dinghy Ramp XL which has 4 brackets that need to be mounted on the platform. Does anyone have any experience with the XL or the HD + extended? The extended has only 2 mounting brackets but the dinghy (zodiac cadet 300 RIB, 5'4" beam) will take up more of the platform. I'm going to measure it out but way back in the thread there was some preliminary discussion of davits and I'm curious if anyone found a good solution with the transom door issue.
I'm very interested in putting some Nautley davits on my 2006 38 DA. I'm concerned about access to the transom door being right in the middle of the platform. Nautley recommends the Dinghy Ramp XL which has 4 brackets that need to be mounted on the platform. Does anyone have any experience with the XL or the HD + extended? The extended has only 2 mounting brackets but the dinghy (zodiac cadet 300 RIB, 5'4" beam) will take up more of the platform. I'm going to measure it out but way back in the thread there was some preliminary discussion of davits and I'm curious if anyone found a good solution with the transom door issue.
Does anyone know where I can source a SS replacement grille for the horn on my 03 380DA ? The SR parts catalog lists the as Part #1662972
Last edited:
Pseudomind
Active Member
- Jul 1, 2008
- 2,122
- Boat Info
- 2011 Hurricane with Magic Tilt Trailer
- Engines
- 115 HP Yamaha Four Stroke
Look at this photo, note the 800 GPH pump. See the clear tubing with the black thing inside? That is the one way check valve and is set up the way it should be.
Now continue to follow the check vale line to the outside of the box, note the far left hand outlet which the check valve is connected to from the inside. (Note I have not yet used my boat shower, so I was checking it all out) I have checked and cleaned this sump box, just never used the shower.
Anyway my question is this, the pump should be self-priming. On my boat the water will not pump out, but the float works and the pump works, but someone has removed the check valve, attached about 1 .5 inches of hose to it and connected the check valve to the outside of the box, then to the water line which goes to the outside drain for the sump box.
Sump box outside drain connection>>>1.5 hose>>> check valve>>> final drain hose connection to the outside
There is still the piece of clear hose running from the 800 GPH pump to the outside of the box, just the check valve is no longer inside it. Now come outside the box, the 1.5 inch hose connection, the check valve next and then it is connected to the final drain hose.
I can momentarily pull the outside hose connection off from the sump box, stick it back on and the pump will prime and pump the water out.
I am wonder if the check valve being outside might be preventing the pump from self priming the pump and allowing it to pump the water out.
I have a complete new sump pump box as you can buy the complete assembly like shown in the picture from West Marine for $119.99 plus tax
Now continue to follow the check vale line to the outside of the box, note the far left hand outlet which the check valve is connected to from the inside. (Note I have not yet used my boat shower, so I was checking it all out) I have checked and cleaned this sump box, just never used the shower.
Anyway my question is this, the pump should be self-priming. On my boat the water will not pump out, but the float works and the pump works, but someone has removed the check valve, attached about 1 .5 inches of hose to it and connected the check valve to the outside of the box, then to the water line which goes to the outside drain for the sump box.
Sump box outside drain connection>>>1.5 hose>>> check valve>>> final drain hose connection to the outside
There is still the piece of clear hose running from the 800 GPH pump to the outside of the box, just the check valve is no longer inside it. Now come outside the box, the 1.5 inch hose connection, the check valve next and then it is connected to the final drain hose.
I can momentarily pull the outside hose connection off from the sump box, stick it back on and the pump will prime and pump the water out.
I am wonder if the check valve being outside might be preventing the pump from self priming the pump and allowing it to pump the water out.
I have a complete new sump pump box as you can buy the complete assembly like shown in the picture from West Marine for $119.99 plus tax
Southpaw II
Active Member
Could the check valve be installed backwards?
Pseudomind
Active Member
- Jul 1, 2008
- 2,122
- Boat Info
- 2011 Hurricane with Magic Tilt Trailer
- Engines
- 115 HP Yamaha Four Stroke
I will look into this, maybe it is not working, come to think of it after your comments. I am disconnecting the input side, so why is water flowing back when this valve is disconnected?
I have a few questions concerning wiring of underwater lights on my 380 DA:
- I want to use one of the vacant dash switch locations, one is labeled "ELEC" and the other "ACCESSORY". Where can I get a matching switch ?
- I've read on other threads that these are pre wired and the wire is in the ER. How do I locate the wire.
- How do I install the switch, do I have to remove the entire panel or does it pop in and out from the face side ?
Thanks in advance.
- I want to use one of the vacant dash switch locations, one is labeled "ELEC" and the other "ACCESSORY". Where can I get a matching switch ?
- I've read on other threads that these are pre wired and the wire is in the ER. How do I locate the wire.
- How do I install the switch, do I have to remove the entire panel or does it pop in and out from the face side ?
Thanks in advance.
jpk33
New Member
I picked up the switch from my local sea ray dealer. The face panel unscrews and the switch just pop in (if I remember correctly). I ran wire for my install (from the lights), for the power feed I took a open slot in the fuse panel that is behind the glove box below the steering wheel. - Jeff
Thanks Jeff,so you snaked a new wire from the switch to the ER ?
- Feb 14, 2009
- 1,361
- Boat Info
- '07 42SS Carver, full electronics array
'03 380DA, RL80C+, ST7001, Kohl 7.3,4kw o/array sold
- Engines
- 8.1S Crusader express drives
Just my $.02...but when my underwater lights were installed, I specifically told them I wanted the switch on the dash panel. When I picked the boat up a couple of weeks later (along with several other things), I found they had installed the switch at the edge of the door on the rear deck...next to the swim platform. I went to the manager about it and he offered to have it moved when we pull it out next, but suggested I try it...and I think he is right. Having the switch located at the transom rear door seems practical and intuitive so far.
jpk33
New Member
Dasch, yes it wasn't that difficult - there is a pretty good run of wires in a chase that runs up along the starboard gunwhale that you can zip tie to. You remove the plastic insert to the right of the helm and grab them from there and run them up to the dash.
Boulder380
Member
- Nov 15, 2009
- 35
- Boat Info
- 2000 - 380 Sundancer
- Engines
- VD-T-454 Mag MPI Horizon MerCruiser
Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some advice, or maybe just answers to some dumb newbie questions. I’m sure there will be more as the season progresses, so please forgive me know…
After a few additional sensor problems, we finally got 20 hours on the new motors and needed to get the oil changed. MM did the motors, so they did the first change, but I have questions…
Is there any benefit to using synthetic oil (ie. Mobil One) after the break-in is complete? They say not, but I love the stuff in our Suburban. Anyone got any experience?
I was also investigating an oil change system for the boat. It seems that the investment would pay for itself after a half dozen changes. Again, they say there way is better (sucking the oil out the dipstick), and a system is only worth it on an oil burner. I think they leave too much old oil in the pans that way. Am I wrong, or are they protecting their business? And If I’m not, who likes what for a change system?
I now need a new compressor for the fridge, and a probably new icemaker. Does anyone have any recommendations for a refrigeration company around St. Petersburg? MM’s quote seems high (around $1350) for the compressor.
Finally, the most import questions…
What’s the best Magma grill to get?
Where’s the best place to mount it?
Where’s the best place to store it?
Hea, mans got to eat!
Thanks for anything (and everything) you’ve got to say…
I’m looking for some advice, or maybe just answers to some dumb newbie questions. I’m sure there will be more as the season progresses, so please forgive me know…
After a few additional sensor problems, we finally got 20 hours on the new motors and needed to get the oil changed. MM did the motors, so they did the first change, but I have questions…
Is there any benefit to using synthetic oil (ie. Mobil One) after the break-in is complete? They say not, but I love the stuff in our Suburban. Anyone got any experience?
I was also investigating an oil change system for the boat. It seems that the investment would pay for itself after a half dozen changes. Again, they say there way is better (sucking the oil out the dipstick), and a system is only worth it on an oil burner. I think they leave too much old oil in the pans that way. Am I wrong, or are they protecting their business? And If I’m not, who likes what for a change system?
I now need a new compressor for the fridge, and a probably new icemaker. Does anyone have any recommendations for a refrigeration company around St. Petersburg? MM’s quote seems high (around $1350) for the compressor.
Finally, the most import questions…
What’s the best Magma grill to get?
Where’s the best place to mount it?
Where’s the best place to store it?
Hea, mans got to eat!
Thanks for anything (and everything) you’ve got to say…
Boulder380
Member
- Nov 15, 2009
- 35
- Boat Info
- 2000 - 380 Sundancer
- Engines
- VD-T-454 Mag MPI Horizon MerCruiser
Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some advice, or maybe just answers to some dumb newbie questions. I’m sure there will be more as the season progresses, so please forgive me now…
After a few additional sensor problems, we finally got 20 hours on the new motors and needed to get the oil changed. MM did the motors, so they did the first change, but I have questions…
Is there any benefit to using synthetic oil (ie. Mobil One) after the break-in is complete? They say not, but I love the stuff in our Suburban. Anyone got any experience?
I was also investigating an oil change system for the boat. It seems that the investment would pay for itself after a half dozen changes. Again, they say their way is better (sucking the oil out the dipstick), and a system is only worth it on an oil burner. I think they leave too much old oil in the pans that way. Am I wrong, or are they protecting their business? And If I’m not, who likes what for a change system?
I now need a new compressor for the fridge, and a probably new icemaker. Does anyone have any recommendations for a refrigeration company around St. Petersburg? MM’s quote seems high (around $1350) for the compressor.
Finally, the most import questions…
What’s the best Magma grill to get?
Where’s the best place to mount it?
Where’s the best place to store it?
Hea, mans got to eat!
Thanks for anything (and everything) you’ve got to say…
I’m looking for some advice, or maybe just answers to some dumb newbie questions. I’m sure there will be more as the season progresses, so please forgive me now…
After a few additional sensor problems, we finally got 20 hours on the new motors and needed to get the oil changed. MM did the motors, so they did the first change, but I have questions…
Is there any benefit to using synthetic oil (ie. Mobil One) after the break-in is complete? They say not, but I love the stuff in our Suburban. Anyone got any experience?
I was also investigating an oil change system for the boat. It seems that the investment would pay for itself after a half dozen changes. Again, they say their way is better (sucking the oil out the dipstick), and a system is only worth it on an oil burner. I think they leave too much old oil in the pans that way. Am I wrong, or are they protecting their business? And If I’m not, who likes what for a change system?
I now need a new compressor for the fridge, and a probably new icemaker. Does anyone have any recommendations for a refrigeration company around St. Petersburg? MM’s quote seems high (around $1350) for the compressor.
Finally, the most import questions…
What’s the best Magma grill to get?
Where’s the best place to mount it?
Where’s the best place to store it?
Hea, mans got to eat!
Thanks for anything (and everything) you’ve got to say…
mawyatt
New Member
I was able to get similar awitches from Defender, they were about $10.
Thanks for the tip
- Feb 14, 2009
- 1,361
- Boat Info
- '07 42SS Carver, full electronics array
'03 380DA, RL80C+, ST7001, Kohl 7.3,4kw o/array sold
- Engines
- 8.1S Crusader express drives
There are some recent comprehensive oil threads...cutting to the chase the best bets were marine full synthetic FC-W motor oils, followed by marine blends.
I am in the process of my first oil change, and it is really pretty easy with a Jabsco pump or similar (about $150 or borrow a dock buddy's). I was looking at the Reverso system, but can't justify it. Can change both engines completely in about 30-45 min (also a very good thread on this).
I'm no help on the compressor.
I have the Magma Catalina, on a swivel mount, coming out of the starboard aft rod holder. It doesn't work with the Isinglass down, but otherwise is pretty handy. I'm looking at a Solaire marine unit though. Mine stores in the aft ski platform locker.
Buffalo Soldier
New Member
Hey guys,
After many months of research, phone calls, and measuring, I went with the Nautley XL Dinghy Ramp. I think it's probably the best "non flip up" davit system available to counter the problem of the transom door being in the center of the swim platform. I was looking for a solid system with removable arms and limited hardware on the platform. My swim platform is 36" deep from the door to the edge, and 23" from platform to waterline. My dinghy is a Zodiac 300 compact RIB 9' 10" by 5'4" weighing a little over 105 pounds. The outboard is a Tohatsu 6 hp weighing about 60 pounds.
It gets installed early May. I'll post some pics and let you know how it works out.
After many months of research, phone calls, and measuring, I went with the Nautley XL Dinghy Ramp. I think it's probably the best "non flip up" davit system available to counter the problem of the transom door being in the center of the swim platform. I was looking for a solid system with removable arms and limited hardware on the platform. My swim platform is 36" deep from the door to the edge, and 23" from platform to waterline. My dinghy is a Zodiac 300 compact RIB 9' 10" by 5'4" weighing a little over 105 pounds. The outboard is a Tohatsu 6 hp weighing about 60 pounds.
It gets installed early May. I'll post some pics and let you know how it works out.
