Official 390 E.C. Thread

I put mine up for 1st time a couple weeks ago & it's tough to get the 1st 12 inches but once you get it there it slides up nicely & locks in place with the pin nicely...It really isn't that heavy but if the spring hasn't moved in awhile, it'll take a bit of umph to get it to move the 1st time
 
There is a string/cord attached to the sliding portion then it goes back to the balance mechanism, sort of like the way Andersen house windows operate. The string is visible in the aluminum track it slides up and down in, if it is still intact. When functioning properly it balances the panel and makes the up and down operation very easy.
 
When completely retracted down our mirror/divider was difficult to lift out of it's hiding place. The previous owner had screwed a stainless loop that you could pull on to get it started. Problem was the loop didn't have the clearance and prevented the mirror from being pinned in the up position.

Today I installed a flush retracting hatch pull. It works great and allows an easy initial lift of the mirror and it can also go all the way up and get pinned in place.

http://www.perko.com/catalog/cabinet_hardware/331/flush_pull/

Definitely not for the faint of heart cutting an inch deep rectangular hole in the decorative wood and in the aluminum frame below the wood but since mine was already hacked by the P.O. I had nothing to lose. It turned out great and looks better than the silly loop that was there.
 
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Refrigerator Door Realignment?

In order to close the Fridge and Freezer doors we have to lift them to get them to shut and seal. The hinge pivots are not sloppy and there does not seem to be a way to adjust the hinges.

Am I missing something?

I suspect the doors are drooping from excessive weight in them over the years or some kid hanging on them when open. Do I need to get physical with a 2x4 and fulcrum to realign the doors upward?
 
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There is a string/cord attached to the sliding portion then it goes back to the balance mechanism, sort of like the way Andersen house windows operate. The string is visible in the aluminum track it slides up and down in, if it is still intact. When functioning properly it balances the panel and makes the up and down operation very easy.

No string or cord in sight. I do see a pin where they would attach to the side of the sliding partition though. The balancing mechanism must be buried in behind the track somewhere. This has the appearance of being a major operation to gain access.
 
Hi everyone! I've been away a long time and I can see I've got some catch up reading to do! Work and trying to avoid wedding planning have kept me extremely busy the last 9 months but I finally broke away to take a crew of 12 out to Catalina for the day. All was going well until I started getting a water alarm about 2/3 of the way there. Opened the aft bilge and found the problem - the bilge pump didn't seem to be working. Not a huge deal - we made it to Avalon and manually bailed it out before we left. Funny other interesting tidbit - the freshwater tank was empty! I hadn't checked it before we left but we use so little fresh water on our day trips it was surprising to find it was all gone. We got walloped by rough seas on the way home and I was slightly nervous about our malfunctioning bilge pumps.

Got a call from the mechanic today. He suspects that the hot water heater (in rough shape) developed a leak, so that water would get pumped from the fresh tank to the hot water heater and into the bilge, where the bilge pumps fried out over time due to the rust and metal particles. Two probably common sense lessons I'm taking from this experience: (1) leave the fresh water system off unless the boat is in use and (2) clean out the bilges somewhat regularly to avoid metal and rush accumulation with our aging vessels.

Anyone know how much two knew bilge pumps and a new hot water heater will cost (and what a suitable water heater replacement would be)?
 
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I just replaced my forward bilge pump myself. It's a 1500 GPH and I paid around $80.00 I did the float switch while I was down there and it was an additional $28.00. I did mine in less than an hour in 95 degree heat so I wasn't exactly hurrying. That gives an idea on the time they should bill.

The rear one would take slightly longer because the rear seat has to move to get access to that hatch.

As for the water heater I can't offer any info. I haven't replaced that. Yet...
 
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Do you have your line voltage pump plumbed to a separate thru-hull fitting? Is this pump sealed to respect the ignition protected requirements in the ER? Do you have a link to the pump that you have installed? I suspect that a ordinary run of the mill submersible pump with a float switch would do the job nicely. I have one of those sitting on the shelf in my shop doing nothing. I may be interested in doing the same as you did. Where did you locate the pump Saverio?
 
I replaced my hot water heater this spring with a seaward 11 gal with rear heat exchanger set us back some where around 400 and i put it in myself it holds heat longer than the others. it draws about 15 amps when starting up cold. hope this helps.

Jim
 
Thanks guys - this was all very helpful information. We got the pumps replaced and in the process we learned from the mechanic (was willing to do the bilge pumps myself but didn't have time to do it soon enough) that we'll need to replace the fresh water pump and that our heat exchangers are 75% occluded, which might suggest why we've often been running low on coolant. Just a parade of horribles at the moment, unfortunately, but I guess that's to be expected with a nearly 30 year old boat.
 
Hey guys. Have a 88 390EC with subfloor issues in the cabin. I've had the boat several years and have completed update of upholstery, floors, etc. in 2012. Floors seemed okay then, however I have noticed over the past few years an issue with the subfloor getting worse, seeming to give around the stairs and sink. No noticeable water leaks, and remains under a covered pier and out of the elements. I do know the water tank was replaced in 2009, so don't expect issues there.

About to tackle ripping out floors down to stringer and needed advice on how you address pulling the cabinets, as I'm assuming these have to be removed before pulling the subfloor. I've looked through several threads and see pictures with them out, but nothing on how to pull them out. Anyone have any advice on how to do this?

:smt100
 
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