Official 390 E.C. Thread

I med moored one time. I'm glad I don't need to do that here as I take the boat out single handed often.
 
Water tank

if you remove ur stairs u will see have access to the water tank. U should be able to see the vent line and if it's hooked up correctly. I don't remember the size I know it's under an inch.
 
Micro, actually I have a rig I built just for that. I have an engine puller I build for pulling engines from a sport fisher. Has a hydraulic power unit on it with a sliding counterweight. Capable of 14,000# at 20'. It does require a larger crane to use it though. I am pulling the engines next year to go through them. I have 300hp 3208's as they are a retro fit. I am going to bore and sleeve the engines to 350hp, this will allow me to strip and repaint them as well. I will also epoxy coat the bilge. Do the projects ever end... I hope not
 
Thanks Saverio. I have pulled the stairs and the line many times but never measured it. I went for the drive last night and worked on it. It seems the tank vents fine until it is full then the the air stops venting and the water doesn't enter the vent hose.

Btw I think we may have crossed paths last year at the napatree anchorage.
 
I'm not sure where that is? I picked up my boat at the end of last summer and havent had any big trips yet. I plan to to go in to manhatten during the summer... check out the vent opening on the outside of the boat and make sure its clear. Bug will build a nest in it during the winter months. When they replaced the vent did they put it on top of the tank or on the side of tank?

Saverio
 
Congrats on the purchase, it's a great boat. Napatree is at Watch Hill RI, Nice Beach and quiet anchorage. The guy I saw last year had a vest on, thought it may have been you. The vent is on the top of the tank, it's a 90 elbow fitted to the tank. I have checked the vent hose and the fitting, flushed it both ways with water and air. I think it get some sort of vapor lock when it becomes full, if you take the vent hose off the tank the water comes gushing out. Thank you for the help.
 
Al

thats it thanks the second one. The part that mounts to boat that has ridge won't support door anymore. I want to post pics but been having trouble lately. My cabinets have all been replaced I have no tambers the PO installed all solid doors and installed new cabinets under. Counter top
 
Dr MicroChip said:
- if you ever have to pull the engines, the radar arch and top have to come off.Doc
Click to expand...


Actually I pulled and reinstalled my engines with the arch on, just depends on the crane you're using.
 

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Hi everyone!

The project for this spring was to fix the leak in the portside diesel tank. I did some research and asked for some quotes on replacement tanks, fixed and bladder, but the cost ran at +4000e always. We ended up doing the following:

-cut four 250x390mm holes on the side of the tank (siphoned empty of course)
-eventually found a tiny, tiny pinhole at the center of the tank
-the reason for the pinhole and the corrosion was apparently the rubber foam strips under the tank, which prevented condensation moisture from evaporating
-our tank was taped with duct tape on all sides, that is, the seam between the floor of the tank bed and the tank was sealed -> no drying -> local corrosion
-cleaned the tank with acetone and sand blasted all welding seams and surfaces
-it turned out that the rest of the tank was in perfect condition, except for the small pinhole spot
-treated all seams and surfaces with epoxy and glassed in five layers of cloth at the bottom of the tank
-the hatches were the difficult part: We got four hatches made with 22 holes in each. We used the shop-made hatch plates as templates for the holes on the side of the tank to get all 22 holes lined up almost perfectly (in the end I had to drill the holes on the tank 1mm larger)
-glued 22 bolts with fixed heads to the hatches, glassed and epoxied over (the side which stays in the tank)
-applied industrial synthetic rubber silicone on the hatch (diesel-proof)
-inserted the hatch diagonally into the tank, turned it and pulled the bolts through the holes
-inserted large washers and nuts from the outside.
-used too much silicone, but wanted to be certain there was enough
-filled it up a couple of days later
-so far no leaks (1 month).


-THEN it turned out that the port side raw water pump has developed a leak and engine cooling is compromised...to be continued.

I'll post pics of the tank job is someone is interested.
 
Does anyone know the bulb type for the navigation lights? Port side light out and I want to pick one up on the way in this weekend.
Thanks in advance.
 
Well, here it is. I have been super busy so have not had the time to work on it much. I will put the top on the boat this Wednesday and will post more pics then. Tell me what you think.
 

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for those that look at what is left of the arch and wonder why the tops are unfinished... These will not in any way support the top, they are only for looks. I will build a collar to make the connection from these to the top once the top is on the boat, the top 4" or so of these will not be seen. You will notice that they look longer, I added 8" to them to get the hardtop taller to allow me to stand at the help and be able to see.
 
looked at your photo gallery and it helped answer several questions! I had a water leak in the storage area under the floor in the salon and finally traced it to a bad hose fitting on the sump reservoir for the shower. Saw that you installed a nice new one with all the nice hose fittings. do you have any part numbers or description or even suggestions as to where I can buy one?

Appreciate the help!
 
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