Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Replacing belts. Besides getting the guards off being a royal bitch...I found my starboard idle pulley mount bolt was sheared off. Looks like it's been sheared off for a long while and isn't easily coming out...

View attachment 160472



Trying to decide best way to handle. I'm pretty sure it's not easily drilled and removed with an easy out.

Maybe drill and re tap?

Best practice?
 
Hope you have a steady hand and a really good set of drill bits :cool:

As I get closer to baseline, during my intake/breather/filter/air system repairs, I found the hoses running to the AIRSEP were permeated with oil.

CAT has an update on these hoses with non-permeable material.

One long hose, cut to fit and two breather collars.

Here's how it comes and how it looks once installed:

BEST !

RWS

IMG_5850.JPG



IMG_5877.JPG



IMG_5878.JPG
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
Hope you have a steady hand and a really good set of drill bits :cool:

As I get closer to baseline, during my intake/breather/filter/air system repairs, I found the hoses running to the AIRSEP were permeated with oil.

CAT has an update on these hoses with non-permeable material.

One long hose, cut to fit and two breather collars.

Here's how it comes and how it looks once installed:

BEST !

RWS

View attachment 160607


View attachment 160608


View attachment 160609
Click to expand...
I was just looking for something like that. Ended up with exhaust hose.
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
Hope you have a steady hand and a really good set of drill bits :cool:

As I get closer to baseline, during my intake/breather/filter/air system repairs, I found the hoses running to the AIRSEP were permeated with oil.

CAT has an update on these hoses with non-permeable material.

One long hose, cut to fit and two breather collars.

Here's how it comes and how it looks once installed:

BEST !

RWS

View attachment 160607


View attachment 160608


View attachment 160609
Click to expand...
Question - on the coalescer there is that rubber reducer fitting then that fitting clamps onto the ribbed hose. How does that clamp on the hose? It doesn't seem like it would ever be able to seal or clamp down.
 
M
ttmott said:
Question - on the coalescer there is that rubber reducer fitting then that fitting clamps onto the ribbed hose. How does that clamp on the hose? It doesn't seem like it would ever be able to seal or clamp down.
Click to expand...
My thought as well, however it's set up the same as the original was.

The new collar appears to function exactly the same as the factory Airsep setup.

It's a very tight fit getting that coiled hose into the collar.

Had to use a needle nose and some soapy water to even get it started.

Guess the clamp is not really needed but does provide some insurance :)

The old hose was brittle AND saturated.

Another step closer to baseline.

Question: Since I had the room, I set the small breather filters up straight, not at an angle as is generally seen. Any logical reason to tilt them?

BEST !

RWS
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
M

My thought as well, however it's set up the same as the original was.

The new collar appears to function exactly the same as the factory Airsep setup.

It's a very tight fit getting that coiled hose into the collar.

Had to use a needle nose and some soapy water to even get it started.

Guess the clamp is not really needed but does provide some insurance :)

The old hose was brittle AND saturated.

Another step closer to baseline.

Question: Since I had the room, I set the small breather filters up straight, not at an angle as is generally seen. Any logical reason to tilt them?

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...
The little filter will be just fine. I think that the evac of the crankcase isn't going to work as designed and you'll start to see oil dripping where that hose goes into the rubber fitting. I think an adapter is needed. Adapts to the inside of both the ribbed hose and rubber reducer.
 
ttmott said:
The little filter will be just fine. I think that the evac of the crankcase isn't going to work as designed and you'll start to see oil dripping where that hose goes into the rubber fitting. I think an adapter is needed. Adapts to the inside of both the ribbed hose and rubber reducer.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tom, good observation on the ribbed part.

These are CAT hoses, an update for this application, and the fit is physically "tight"

I've run her at the dock with that hose arrangement, but not on the water just yet.

While it's still good and clean , will run a decent bead of silicone on that joint to handle any possible future seepage.

BEST !

RWS
 
Walker sell replacement hose but ist pricey. I'm thinking the exhaust hose is a good alternative.

If its 1" ID, i've got a chunk of 1" exhaust hose that might work.

Edit...looks like its 1-1/4 ID...Can anybody confirm?

Hose has gotten hugely expensive $15-$20 a foot !!
 
Yes, it's a lil pricey...

2........................6I2068 HOSE............................51.57..................................103.14T

210....................423-1983 HOSE-1/2" (CENTIMETER)................0.66.................138.60T

But, I know it will fit, and I'll likely NEVER have to deal with it again !

BEST !

RWS
 
Why don't you plug the filter? straight into the reducer hose?

Mine looks like this - oh, and subsequent to this pic I have deleted the old breather pipe.

filter.jpg
 
I suppose I should have asked the price prior to ordering it, just never thought to ask.

They sent that and the breather "O" rings.

Ray, looks like you came up with the best alternative.

BEST !

RWS
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
Oil change time is coming, so I have simply been watching the oli level and not adding anything.

Havent added anything since last August.

Seems to me - and I have zero data to prove this, that I am using zero oil when I maintain the oil level at the fill mark.

Am I alone on this?

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...
I use none also, at least not any I can notice , and except the time I left the dip stick not properly seated back in engines get light use only
 
Oil change next month.

I'll be filling both engines to the add level only.

Stay tuned for the results.

BEST !

RWS
 
I guess up north were on different cycles. We change the oil in the fall. The reasoning is you don't want the old oil sitting in the crankcase all winter.
 
Here's a new wrinkle.

Since installing the BOOST and PYROMETER gauges, they have been displaying identical readings.

Even as recently as 3/2/24 when she was fully loaded with fuel, water and passengers.

Did a 40 mile round trip, day trip yesterday and found the boost displaying significantly different numbers.

Boat ran fine, no issues, no other differences in exhaust temps, oil pressure, water temperature or anything else. My NMPG may have been a tiny bit down, as it usually runs a bit better than what is displayed, however this is variable as to wind, tides, load and when the bottom was last serviced.

Full water here - 100 gallons and 3/4 tank of fuel - those old Floscans are deadly accurate.

I should note I replaced the starboard turbo when I bought the boat 2 years ago as the freeze plug area was rusted out and the PO did an epoxy repair.

Actual engine hours are 70 more than what is displayed.

Cat did the timing/injectors/valves 2 years ago and both aftercoolers were cleaned last year as part of getting the boat back to baseline.

My best guess is that it's going to be the port turbo, but that's just a guess.

Please take a look at these photos.

Comments are appreciated.

BEST !

RWS

2300 RPM

IMG_6183.JPG



(BELOW) 2400 RPM - 27 MPH and .79 NMPG (.90 SMPG) not too shabby for a 45' 32,000 lb Sundancer !

IMG_6211.JPG
 
Without some other symptom paricuarily black smoke, I would check the boost gauge tubing/fittings first. Could be an instrumentation issue.

The second thing I would check would be the turbo outlet to aftercooler connection. It’s a short section of hose, but I’ve had one let loose and you know immediately there’s a problem! But you could have a loose clamp or a leak developing there.

Hopefully nothing serious.
 
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