Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

Thanks Steve - every day is a school day with these boats. I am in IT so diesel engines are not my forte.
Hoping it's not something too costly.
 
Clinton Skinner said:
Thanks Steve - every day is a school day with these boats. I am in IT so diesel engines are not my forte.
Hoping it's not something too costly.
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Pull the air filter off and stick your hand in there and try to spin the turbo. If it doesn’t spin, turbo rebuild time.
 
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Jaybeaux said:
Could be stuck injector dumping too much fuel in for amount of air.
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There u go! I agree since he is saying it was up to service.
 
Jaybeaux said:
Could be stuck injector dumping too much fuel in for amount of air.
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Could be. But that's way down the list of things to look at. I like Bill's suggestion or spinning the turbo by hand. I know I'm not pulling injectors myself. I'll pull out the check book at that point!
 
Was mentioned before, but check the boot (2" diameter) from the turbo to intake. if this has a crack in it, the turbo will not spool up. I carry a spare with me as my turbo boot has blown before. With the engine running and throttle up, you can also feel the air leakage from the boot.
 
Hi all,
I have 2001 460 Sundancer. Going to be pulling the after coolers in a week or so . The port one is straightforward and easy to get to. Any of you with the tight quarters of the starboard motor on a 460 or like model. What was your route/ process to getting the Starboard one out?
 
Have done mine a few times now and personally I think changing my port impeller is worse than removing/reinstalling the aftercooler. One thing I found useful was i bought threaded studs with a hex drive drive. This allowed me to remove the bolts one at a time and thread in the stud. The stud then keeps the aftercooler in place when you are removing or reinstalling.
 
EKM said:
Was mentioned before, but check the boot (2" diameter) from the turbo to intake. if this has a crack in it, the turbo will not spool up. I carry a spare with me as my turbo boot has blown before. With the engine running and throttle up, you can also feel the air leakage from the boot.
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Bingo - this had partially slipped under the clamp and had a small gap. Also wastegate hose was a little loose.
Tightened these and we have boost. ALTHOUGH - the boost on this engine comes up a lot slower than the port, boost gauge shows approx 5-7psi less (you can see it on the rev counter when powering up, stbrd takes approx 5-10 seconds longer than port to get from 1,700 - 2,200). Have checked for further leaks but cannont find any. We are going to check pressures on wastegates to confirm they are the same.

P.S stbrd turbo spins fine by hand and looks perfect from air filter side.
 
Irie308 said:
Have done mine a few times now and personally I think changing my port impeller is worse than removing/reinstalling the aftercooler. One thing I found useful was i bought threaded studs with a hex drive drive. This allowed me to remove the bolts one at a time and thread in the stud. The stud then keeps the aftercooler in place when you are removing or reinstalling.
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Thank you .

I don't know if our engine room has the same lay out or not . My Starboard aftercooler is between the motor and the side of the boat and there is no way of getting on that side. I think I am going to have to pull the exhaust tube and many other part to get to it.

The boat is 23 years old 1100 hours and has been in freshwater all its life and the after coolers have never been done . We aren't having any cooling issues so I question if I should do it or not.
 
Joint Custody said:
Thank you .

I don't know if our engine room has the same lay out or not . My Starboard aftercooler is between the motor and the side of the boat and there is no way of getting on that side. I think I am going to have to pull the exhaust tube and many other part to get to it.

The boat is 23 years old 1100 hours and has been in freshwater all its life and the after coolers have never been done . We aren't having any cooling issues so I question if I should do it or not.
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Well, you could do the easy access one. If it pulls apart easy and there is no significant pitting on the aluminum housing, then good to go. So use it to learn the process and get an idea as to whether you need to pull the starboard one.
 
Joint Custody said:
Thank you .

I don't know if our engine room has the same lay out or not . My Starboard aftercooler is between the motor and the side of the boat and there is no way of getting on that side. I think I am going to have to pull the exhaust tube and many other part to get to it.

The boat is 23 years old 1100 hours and has been in freshwater all its life and the after coolers have never been done . We aren't having any cooling issues so I question if I should do it or not.
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After 23 years and 1100 hours, yes, you do need to clean your after coolers and heat exchangers. You Sundancer guys with the V drives have the exact opposite situation that those of us with the sedan bridges and straight drives have. Your problem is the starboard side, our nemesis is the port side.
 
scooper321 said:
After 23 years and 1100 hours, yes, you do need to clean your after coolers and heat exchangers. You Sundancer guys with the V drives have the exact opposite situation that those of us with the sedan bridges and straight drives have. Your problem is the starboard side, our nemesis is the port side.
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That is what I am thinking too.

Now I just need someone that has done it on a 460 to tell me the best route on starboard.
 
I always used the checkbook! Did the port myself and hired a mech to r&r the stbd. So much easier.
 
Joint Custody said:
That is what I am thinking too.

Now I just need someone that has done it on a 460 to tell me the best route on starboard.
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Hi - didn't do it myself but watch the mechanic. He want around the front of the engine over the black water tank (around exhaust pipe)
 
fr8dog said:
I always used the checkbook! Did the port myself and hired a mech to r&r the stbd. So much easier.
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I usually do the same however where I am at that is not a option. The shops at Bullfrog will work on gassers all day long when it comes to diesels they bring someone from 150 miles away and you pay a huge premium.
 
Clinton Skinner said:
Hi - didn't do it myself but watch the mechanic. He want around the front of the engine over the black water tank (around exhaust pipe)
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That is my plan. Might have to remove the exhaust tube then it looks like you can get to it. My admiral isn't afraid to get her hands dirty and she is a lot smaller than I am and is a huge help on the boat. She just did all the service on the mains, gen and and the racor filters I was the helper.:)
 

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Joint Custody said:
That is my plan. Might have to remove the exhaust tube then it looks like you can get to it. My admiral isn't afraid to get her hands dirty and she is a lot smaller than I am and is a huge help on the boat. She just did all the service on the mains, gen and and the racor filters I was the helper.:)
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Hey - can you send photo of the front of your engines (stbrd) where the exhaust is? I will send a photo of mine. We didn't need to remove any exhaust piping.
 
Clinton Skinner said:
Bingo - this had partially slipped under the clamp and had a small gap. Also wastegate hose was a little loose.
Tightened these and we have boost. ALTHOUGH - the boost on this engine comes up a lot slower than the port, boost gauge shows approx 5-7psi less (you can see it on the rev counter when powering up, stbrd takes approx 5-10 seconds longer than port to get from 1,700 - 2,200). Have checked for further leaks but cannont find any. We are going to check pressures on wastegates to confirm they are the same.

P.S stbrd turbo spins fine by hand and looks perfect from air filter side.
Click to expand...
UPDATE: Removed starboard turbo and wastegate valve was stuck partially open. Sent turbo off for repair, hopefully this sorts the issue.
 
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