Outdrive spews water when Muffed

Arminius

Arminius

Well-Known Member
Oct 30, 2019
1,068
Seattle
Boat Info
Bowrider 200 Select, 2003
Engines
5.0L MPI, 260 hp w/Alpha 1 Drive
I dewinterized my boat with the Alpha One, Gen 2 outdrive by putting the plugs back in and testing with the muffs and garden hose. Water exited below the outdrive casting but not from the center of the prop. I rushed over to the marina with my cell phone picture. I was asssured that this is normal with the drive partially up.
 
Below the casting. Picture please mine comes out of the transome exhaust amd spots a little water out the prop I think
 
randmhall said:
You are supposed to de-winterize in the lake. Just push it off the trailer, and then see if it starts as you drift into deep enough water to fully trim down.
Click to expand...
I prefer to do it at the launch, in the middle of the dock, while my family loads the boat up with coolers, food, etc……oh and go to the restroom.
 
I did notice the bilge plug hanging loose. Drained the outdrive and the oil was not milky, a good sign. The water pump impeller can wait another year. Engine oil sucker-outer would probably work better on a hot engine. Incidentally, I took Susan to the range yesterday with the idea she should use my hammer fired SP2022 and asked the range guy to explain the pistol and safety with a decocker. She broke a nail on the decocker and clearly was not helped to understand guns and be safer. Back to her striker fired Macro and I'm always reminded of the comment of the aggressive female Latino Space Marine in Aliens, "Just show me [the targets.]" I think this may be why striker fired guns now dominate. Lady cops may fire the full mag at fleeing suspects as the pistol is cleared and the slide is held back for the next mag. Her accuracy is very good and getting better.
 
It is best practice to trim the out drive as far down as possible when running on the muffs.
 
OK, I admit it. Been spitting out coffee on the last few posts.
 
Sorry I got off subject which should be Dewinterizing. Changing the oil is an effort because the cold oil is so thick. This year I ordered a magnetic 200 Watt block heater. I thought I would let the oil heat for a few days before sucking the old out through the dipstick hole.
 
Arminius said:
Sorry I got off subject which should be Dewinterizing. Changing the oil is an effort because the cold oil is so thick. This year I ordered a magnetic 200 Watt block heater. I thought I would let the oil heat for a few days before sucking the old out through the dipstick hole.
Click to expand...
And there he goes...
 
Arminius said:
Sorry I got off subject which should be Dewinterizing. Changing the oil is an effort because the cold oil is so thick. This year I ordered a magnetic 200 Watt block heater. I thought I would let the oil heat for a few days before sucking the old out through the dipstick hole.
Click to expand...
While it may initially seem like a far fetched possibility, did you ever consider changing the oil as part of the year's end activities, rather than the first thing out of the gate?

Perhaps we view clean oil differently, but I always perceived
changing cold oil as being at least a little bit counter-productive.
 
Why not just warm it up on the muffs. 5 min
 
Then there is a problem no. What good is clean oil if it can't run??
 
In theory, it should warm up enough on the muffs. Lots of cold tap water running out of this raw water cooled engine and running down the street though. I'll give the block heater a try. It no longer bothers me too much that I am not getting it all. When I first bought the boat, I tried accessing the crankcase plug through the bilge drain. Both plugs are on the same chain. Nothing much came out as I had not attempted to warm it and stir up the sludge.
 
Run it on the muffs. My boat is so quiet on muff it sounds like it's in the water. Spend 10 min. My oil drain is on my drain plug it works fine
 
The oil sucker worked this year. The oil was hot and thinner after a day of 200 watt magnetic heater on the pan. Finally worked out why flow was inconsistent and removed oil filler cap to allow crankcase to breathe. I guess I will check my PCV valve. Put that heater on a baseboard heater thermostat circuit and you wouldn't have to winterize.
 
that magnetic heater might not be a terrible idea for condensation control in a winterized boat if it’s ignition protected though….
 
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