Question about trailer

[Lazy Daze]

Do they give wet weights?

No, but that's why I provided him the instructions on how to go about doing that. In the end, it's just basic math

 

[Espos4]

Hello everyone!

I'm looking to purchase a 2009 Sea Ray 240 Sundeck. Unfortunately it does not come with a trailer. Can someone tell me if this Load Rite trailer will work please?Here are the specs...
2002 Load Rite Boat Trailer. Galvanized. GVWR 5950. Previously garage stored. Surge brakes. Measures 20' from the bow roller to stern roller. I have attached some pics of it.
Thank you very much for your time
Corey

I have a 2007 240 Sundeck.
It’s identical to the 2009 that you are looking at. You’ll need a little over 23’ from bow roller to the stern. I can measure mine tomorrow to get the exact number.

If you go with a roller trailer, get something with at least 48 rollers. 64 would be even better.

Figure on 6000 lbs wet weight.
4800 dry weight
2 batteries
65 Gallons fuel
20 gallons water
Canvas
Chairs
Tools
Umbrellas
Bimini top
Etc.
It adds up very quickly.
If it’s a box beam trailer, make sure it’s 3x5” beams. The smaller 3x4 beams are not strong enough and will flex with the weight of the boat.
Speaking from experience.

 

[boatman37]

I have a 2007 240 Sundeck.
It’s identical to the 2009 that you are looking at. You’ll need a little over 23’ from bow roller to the stern. I can measure mine tomorrow to get the exact number.
If it’s a box beam trailer, make sure it’s 3x5” beams. The smaller 3x4 beams are not strong enough and will flex with the weight of the boat.
Speaking from experience.

It's an aluminum I-beam. Looks just like mine, which are either 5" or 6" but hard to tell from the pics.
I don't have great pics of mine but here it is

 

[FuzzDaddy]

Hi guys. The people sold the trailer on me before I got there. Which wasn't fair at all since I even left a deposit. My local marine max called me and said they had a trailer that would work for me but it was a private sale. I bought it on the spot for $3000. It's a magic tilt trailer aluminum I beam. The bunks are 3" x 11". Coincidentally the trailer was sitting next to a 240. So I measured the length from bow hook to transom which is 21'. Right now the trailer is set up for a 20' boat. Looks like I will need to adjust the winch stand closer to the front 1'. This magic tilt trailer has a carrying capacity of 6000lbs which basically puts me right there.
Dry weight 4680 lbs
Fuel 65 gallons 410 lbs
Water 20 gallons 210 lbs
Totals 5300 lbs
Than I multiplied 1.1 which is what a website said to add for other gear.
So my total weight is 5830 lbs.
That only gives me 170lbs leeway. Maybe if I don't fill the water tank until I get to the marina that will save me a additional 210 lbs. I hope I made a good purchase.
What do you think?
Here are the pics....
Again I want to thank everyone and I apologize for all the confusion with all the different trailers. I needed to make a decision quick and that just stressed me out making me crazy. I can only hope that someday I can help someone out on here just like everyone has helped me!

 

[blaster]

Congratulations, the load guides are a nice added feature.

 

[boatman37]

Should be good. Best bet would be to leave all tanks empty until you get close to your destination anyway. I never completely fill our water tank anyway. Usually only fill it to 1/3 or maybe 1/2 and that will last us weeks. We don't drink that water.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Magic Tilt, while not top of the line, has been around for a long time and is a solid trailer. You'll be fine with that weight you posted - even that it's close to max. I wouldn't worry about it. As long as everything checks out good - go for it.

 

[FuzzDaddy]

Excellent news!! To keep the weight down for towing back to the lake in the spring from winter storage at my house should I leave the fuel tank half empty or do I need to fill it for the winter to avoid condensation? I always add fuel stabil. Again I only use the trailer twice a year about 45 mins each trip. I don't even use it to put the boat in the water. Also I have attached a pic of the trailer below. Is it ok to move the winch stand and put it where I have my trailer receiver sitting on the trailer? If I can put the winch stand there my transom will sit flush on the bunk. I'm just not sure if I can move the winch stand there which is only 12" forward from where it is now. Thank you for all your time and patients!
Corey

 

[Lazy Daze]

Yes, that's possible. But if you move it too far forward, you could end up with way too much tongue weight along with too much weight on the front axle. In that case, you'd need to move the axles forward.

Gas tank... "best practice" is either full or empty, not in between. Empty is not realistic with built-in tanks.

 

[boatman37]

I moved mine forward about 12". Here are some pics. Not sure if I have an after pic but can run outside and get one and follow up. You can also move your bunks but be sure to keep proper weight distribution on the trailer. I moved my bunks and winch tower forward about12". The way it was I had no tongue weight and could lift the front of my trailer by hand with the boat on it. I moved the winch forward about 12" but then my bunks hung too far out the back so I moved them forward by drilling new mounting holes in them
before:

After:

 

[FuzzDaddy]

I moved mine forward about 12". Here are some pics. Not sure if I have an after pic but can run outside and get one and follow up. You can also move your bunks but be sure to keep proper weight distribution on the trailer. I moved my bunks and winch tower forward about12". The way it was I had no tongue weight and could lift the front of my trailer by hand with the boat on it. I moved the winch forward about 12" but then my bunks hung too far out the back so I moved them forward by drilling new mounting holes in them
before:

After:

Hi Boatman, I see you bolted your winch stand right on top of the area where the 2 I beams and tongue meet. I didn't know that was acceptable. If I can do that I only need to move mine 6". I over compensated because I thought it could only be on the tongue beam itself. But if it's ok to do like yours where all 3 meet I'll do that.

 

[boatman37]

Let me run outside and get better pics. Be right back and will explain it better

 

[Lazy Daze]

Hi Boatman, I see you bolted your winch stand right on top of the area where the 2 I beams and tongue meet. I didn't know that was acceptable. If I can do that I only need to move mine 6". I over compensated because I thought it could only be on the tongue beam itself. But if it's ok to do like yours where all 3 meet I'll do that.

Your base plate looks shorter than Boatman's - but as long as it fits (u-bolts), it's fine.

 

[boatman37]

So here are some better pics I just took. In the one pic you can slightly see the marks where it used to be mounted. In one pic you can see spacers that were included with the trailer but I moved them back behind the post cause I didn't need them with where it is mounted now. Mine has 2 sets of holes in the front to allow for more adjustability so that helped me. In the one pic you can see the marks in the 'rug' where my old bunk mounting holes were so you can see where it used to be and how far forward I moved them

EDIT: you can see that I had limited range on my post. It's moved as far forward as it can go unless I move it substantially cause of the side rails being in the way of the u-bolts. Same thing when I moved it forward. I had about a 6" range that I could not mount it cause the front bolts would have been right through the side rails

What I don't like about your trailer and it would be a pretty easy fix is that you have no bunks towards the front like mine does
Hope this helps

 

[Creekwood]

You should also price a new trailer from one of the good manufacturers. I know trailers are not overly complex, but if you buy a crappy one and have to replace surge brakes, bearings, tires, bunks -- the used $ vs new $ difference can get pretty small and maybe piece of mind might make it worth it. Especially if you intend to trailer any distance.

 

[Thornton69]

The fellow that we purchased our boat from used a bottle of desiccant beads that he connected the vent line from the fuel tank to for extended storage periods. Believe it was a similar situation where he didn't want to travel long distances with the tank full of fuel. He lived 300 miles from the coast and would only use it for a few weeks out of the season. He said the beads would change colors if they started to saturate with moisture but would keep it all out of the tank. The tank is 40 years old and is in great shape.
We bought a bigger trailer, really don't have extended storage periods and keep the tank full so not an issue for us.
May be something worth your while to look into.

 

[FuzzDaddy]

Hi Everyone, I'm going to pick up my 240 on Saturday. I was just looking over the trailer to make sure everything is accounted for. I noticed I don't have the galvanized metal eyelets attached on the rear of the trailer for the transom eye ratchet tie downs. I do have a eye hooks on the bunk but they are only screwed in the wood not bolted on the other side. Is it ok to just use the eye hooks on the bunks? If so the eye will be about a foot farther back on the bunk then my transom. Also on my winch stand I have the ratcheting strap and the bow eye chain. Is there a need to attach a double adjusting hook on the bottom of the winch stand to connect to the bow eye? Please see pics for reference....
Thank you and have a good night

 

[Juliery]

I would not rely on a screw eye into wood. The transom straps should attach to the trailer frame - either the strap hook through a hole in the frame or to a welded eye.

Both the winch strap and the safety chain from the winch post should be hooked into the bow eye.

 

[FuzzDaddy]

Yes I will attach both the winch strap and the safety chain from the winch post into the bow eye. It is necessary to use the lower winch post eyelet with a 3rd ratchet going vertically? I am not sure where to attached an eye into the frame. It is ok to drill a hole in the flat top part of the aluminum I beam to attach the ratchet strap hook? If not I can buy the eye bracket but attach through which bolt?

 

[Juliery]

No, you do not need a third attachment at the winch post. Instead of drilling the flange, drill the web (the vertical part of the I-beam) about center and minimum 3/4" from the end. Put the hook through that hole.