quicksilver genset issue

E

expressboy

New Member
Oct 16, 2010
92
pac north west
Boat Info
96 400ex
Engines
454
Hey All,
I am currently on a cruise up the Columbia, my gas genset will run for about 45 min. when cold.. then it auto shuts down. I noticed that just before it quits the voltage goes up to around 140v. then the unit shuts down.... any thoughts?

EXPRESSBOY
 
Mine used to cut out until I got the heat exchanger cleaned. It would run for about the same length of time. It would start after sitting for 1/2 hour. Did not look at the voltage. Do you have your blower on when you run it? A new raw water pump impeller might help.
 
Do you notice it racing before it shuts down? If yes, the governor may need oil. Is it loaded when it shuts down?
 
I found that keeping the loads on both sides even and at 2/3 rated capacity helps make it run better. If you have a heat gun (IR) check parts on the engine and heat exchanger after it warms up and when it fails.
 
Northern- tell me about getting the heat exchanger cleaned? You pulled it and took it to a radiator shop?
 
rondds said:
Do you notice it racing before it shuts down? If yes, the governor may need oil. Is it loaded when it shuts down?
Click to expand...

ir gun shows 185deg. at the heat exchanger neck, genset had a moderate equal load, lots of water flow, clean raw water strainer.....what type of oil... viscosity?
thanks for the help!
EXPRESSBOY- (LD)
 
Is there an over voltage logic that shuts down to prevent appliance damage? If so sounds like governor issue.
 
Is there an over voltage logic that shuts down to prevent appliance damage? If so sounds like governor issue.
Click to expand...

There is a shut down mechanism. I'm not sure if it's linked to rpm or voltage. I use just a straight 30w but I don't think it matters much. Check your governor for leakage. Mine leaks from the main bearing and creates a very slight aerosol, which I catch with oil-sorb sheets. I've tried some stop-leak stuff but it doesn't help. I need to take the governor off and take it apart but I'm afraid I'll F something up!
 
There are four 13mm bolts that hold the heat exchanger/maniflod to the engine. You disconnect all hoes first and drain. The gasket was not glued to the motor or manifold. Best to order a new gasket first. Took the assmbly to a rad shop. I think they charged $100 to take it apart and clean it. Mine had never been servied and was 99% blocked. There is a temperature switch on the cast iron raw water mixer muffler at the engine discharge. If your your generator fails again and will not start you might concider taking one wire off and seeing if it starts. But if you have 185 F and the discharge water is cool I would say you have an other problem. My heat exchanger required a new end cap and the cast iron muffler was corroded through. The two parts cost about 800. I got parts from http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/page.html?chapter=0&id=13 and http://www.generator-parts.com/generaconan/store/comersus_listItems.asp They shipped same day and I got them in 3 days.
 
Northern
I've ordered from partsfortechs before. Great outfit and very helpful. Did you get the gasket there as well? Good to know they have parts for that HE and that gizmo on the discharge side. I know the governor is available too, but apparently the bolt holes for the springs and such are not quite the same.

I'm always walking on eggshells with this gen. It runs very well but since QS has gone the way of the DoDo Bird, I worry! Thanks for the info.
 
I got the gaskets and ignition parts from http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...pe=7212&a=www.bing.com+Search+for+1989+NISSAN Site called ROCKAUTO They were for a 988CC Nisan Micra. They do not list it any more they list a 1.2L no idea if the parts are the same. Did see the gasket listed with one of the other companies.
Mine has 1,100 hours and others on this site have managed to get 4,000 out of theirs. I only work on mine when it does not work well, figure if not brocked do not touch. I changed coil, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor and wires this year. Could not acces the points as the distributor is horizontal and there is less than a foot between it and the fuel tank. Mechanic said to take the distributor off to change the points and condensor. Will wait until I have problems.
 
I replaced all ignition components once, plugs and wires twice - in my 7 seasons and approx 100 hours on this thing. I bought wires for a 1989 Nissan pulsar from Autozone. Each wire was about 2" longer but worked out great. Access to the distributor is pretty good so I did points and condenser. Also changed the drive belt with a Gates from Pep Boys. Have you done the timing belt?

The Micra/March used this engine for many years. I didn't know Rockauto ever had parts for a March/Micra. I had checked a few years back and came up empty (when I was looking for wires).

5137254605_2cf578340c.jpg
 
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Ditto your sentiment Ron. I worry every time I have to fire it up that something is gonna blow that I cant fix. Granted I have had my share of issues. I think the call out on the governor oil is a good one. Not many check that, god knows I didnt.
 
rondds said:
There is a shut down mechanism. I'm not sure if it's linked to rpm or voltage. I use just a straight 30w but I don't think it matters much. Check your governor for leakage. Mine leaks from the main bearing and creates a very slight aerosol, which I catch with oil-sorb sheets. I've tried some stop-leak stuff but it doesn't help. I need to take the governor off and take it apart but I'm afraid I'll F something up!
Click to expand...

so i checked the oil level...I removed bolt that says 'oil level' and oil weeped out.. any additional ideas?
thanks.
expressboy
 
Faulty temperature sender? Try to bypass it and see if it stays running???
 
I am gonna weigh in for what it's worth. My 3kw Onan was shutting down after awhile. It would start and run perfect then just shut down. After a few minutes it would restart, run awhile and shutdown again. I bypassed all the shutdown switches to no avail ( oil pressure, engine temp, exhaust temp).

I talked to a Cummins/Onan tech and he said fuel pump. They tend to run hot when they get old and shut down until they cool off.

He had me set-up a 12v jumper wire. Immediately after it shuts down, jump to the pos lead of the starter solenoid and listen for the pump to run. you should here it run. If it is silent it is probably the culprit. New fuel pump and I am running great.

This may not be your problem as I cannot explain your erratic voltage readings, but it is a possibility.
 
Dave, you have an electric fuel pump? I think our old QSs have old fashioned "manual" ones.
 
Do a search on the forum for quicksilver and there are a few threads that explain which wires do what. i know there is a specific wire on the controller board that can be disconnected to bypass each of the shutdown mechanisms. #85 maybe? i cant recall... If you do this and the genny starts up after stalling, you know its one of those sensors causing the shutdown. Then its a 1 by 1 disconnect game.
 
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