Raymarine C120

yachtjim

Member
GOLD Sponsor
Aug 19, 2004
84
Annapolis, MD
Boat Info
1974 CC
Engines
250 Yamaha HPDI
This year I added the Raymarine C120 to my boat. I actually bought one of the remanufactured ones but it showed up as new. I am very impressed with how easy the installation and setup has been. I am still in the process of hooking up other components to it such as my Standard Horizon Matrix VHF, but the basic Raymarine system is in the boat and operating flawlessly.

Installation: The instructions were very easy to follow and Ray provides a cutout template, the hardest part was cutting such a big hole in my dash! :shock:, one the hole was cut the unit dropped right in. I found the supplied mounting bolts to be too short as my dash is cored, and I still haven't found adequate bolts, but I cut my hole in the dash very tightly so the unit is staying there on its own at the moment, but proper bolts are at the top of my priority list, I certainly will not go out in any rough seas until I get the bolts in place but the unit is fine for the orientation cruises i am doing right now.

The C120 uses the raystar 120 (now called the 125) GPS antenna for GPS reception. The antenna is Seatalk compatible but has exposed wires on one end instead of a seatalk plug. I used the Raymarine part # R55006 junction box to connect the GPS antenna to the seatalk cable that plugs into the back of the C120. Raymarine provides 3M Scotlok connectors to accomplish this but i found the R55006 to be a much cleaner setup. I flush mounted my antenna on my t-top which is also a very clean look and easy to do. GPS antenna installation and hookup was straight forward and easy to do.

Next was hooking up the radar. I have the 2kW dome which is the easiest of the Ray radars to hook up. It basically plugs right into the back of the C120 with no further wiring necessary. I will do a review on my radar installation later.

Finally I hooked up the DSM 300 (formerly called the DSM 250). This too was plug and play and easy to install. the DSM 300 requires it's own power supply so i wired it to a fused switch on my dash. There is really not much to describe about installing this component as it simply bolts to flat surface, gets plugged into the boats power supply, and gets plugged into the C120.

Operation: When I finally got around to firing everything up I was pleasantly surprised to see it all working perfectly. The radar required no adjustments, it was literally working perfectly. The FF was also putting out a perfect picture of the bottom of my 3' deep slip! Many FF have a difficult time reading this shallow but the DSM is working great for me. The GPS acquired a fix in record time too. I did not need to tell it what state I was in like many GPS's so they can acquire that first fix. It knew where I was right away with absolutely no user input or setup required.

Raymarines interface is very intuitive and they make great use of the soft keys (the buttons at the bottom of the screen that have changing labels depending on what screen you are on). There are plenty of screen layouts available too, although i have already created a set of my own. I have played with the chart/radar overlay feature and find it to be very useful at planing speed going in a straight line, but at slower speeds or when turning it would be greatly enhanced by having a heading sensor. I currently don't have one, and will probably not use that feature until i do. I am adding an autopilot and hope the included heading sensor will help.

The FF holds bottom well at all speeds too which is impressive.

Cartography: the C120 has decent cartography but I still prefer the Garmin Blue charts. If this unit can stand to improve anywhere it is in this area. It looks like Ray has already improved upon it in the new E-Series with navionics Platinum cartography. With that said the chart detail is still awesome. I have also only used it in an area (where I live) where most of the water is shallow and there are no marinas and not too many buoys so there is not much to look at on the chart. I'm sure when I get some cruises in to Annapolis, or once I get out to do some fishing I will have a whole different perspective of their quality.

Summary: I wish there was more to talk about but ther really ins't. Installation is a breeze, and is all plug and play except for connecting a few wires on the GPS antenna. I will follow up in the next few days with some pics of the installation.
 
greetings from miami, jim. :D

very ineresting to see what the guy who can install anything ends up installing.

curious why you didn't bother w/ 4w radome.
 
I only use my radar for navigation and there is very little difference in 4kW vs 2 kW except the price tag. If I was out on the high seas I might be able to use more power but with my current setup and the locaion I use it I can be on one side of the bay and see exactly where all the fishing boats on the other side of the bay (5 miles) are anchored.

For navigating at night it is perfect too. 4kW would not be much benefit.
 
raymarine C80

Jim,

Your post is very encouraging. I have been debating as to whether I should install a raymarine C80 system myself or let the dealer do it. The difference in price is right around $1600.
I'll be installing the 2kw radome, gps antenna, and the C80 display. My boat has a radar arch with access panels. I don't see how the installation could be worth $1600.

Thanks,
Charlie
 
I'm not familiar with this unit, so it may not mean anything, my unit is not screwed in at all. My unit has a threaded hole for a bracket installation on each side, and whenI screw in the knobs that would tighten its position from below the dash, its locked in and not moving, a little silicone for cusioning and thats it. there is a piece of white starboard between the dash cut out and the rl80.
 
Re: raymarine C80

charlieft said:
Jim,

Your post is very encouraging. I have been debating as to whether I should install a raymarine C80 system myself or let the dealer do it. The difference in price is right around $1600.
I'll be installing the 2kw radome, gps antenna, and the C80 display. My boat has a radar arch with access panels. I don't see how the installation could be worth $1600.

Thanks,
Charlie

Assume $80/hour for a marine technician.

To get to $1,600 they are saying it would take them 20 houre.

Now it my take 20 hours for a novice to do the job, given it would be the first ever instillation. However 20 hours for a dome, GPS & screen seems excessive.

You may want to get another estimate from another company.
 
Re: raymarine C80

Presentation said:
charlieft said:
Jim,

Your post is very encouraging. I have been debating as to whether I should install a raymarine C80 system myself or let the dealer do it. The difference in price is right around $1600.
I'll be installing the 2kw radome, gps antenna, and the C80 display. My boat has a radar arch with access panels. I don't see how the installation could be worth $1600.

Thanks,
Charlie

Assume $80/hour for a marine technician.

To get to $1,600 they are saying it would take them 20 houre.

Now it my take 20 hours for a novice to do the job, given it would be the first ever instillation. However 20 hours for a dome, GPS & screen seems excessive.

You may want to get another estimate from another company.

Thanks,

I had the same thought. If the tech is worth $80+ an hour then he shouldn't need 20 hours to install a few pieces of equipment that are advertized as "plug and play".

-Charlie
 
I installed a C-80, RayStar 125 GPS, and 2Kw radome last summer on my boat. Its connected to an Icom 504 DSC/VHF radio.

Next season, I am adding a DSM 300 sonar and a ST60+ graphic display to the system. I just purchased the ST60 from BOE Marine - for some reason, I only recently became aware of BOE Marine.

The boat did not come with depth or speed gauges, so I am using the C-80 system for this information. However, the display of these items within the C-80 is a bit small, so I am going to dedicate the ST60+ graphic display to depth and speed. The result is they will be in large, easy to read numbers that are displayed all of the time, rather than be reduced to a couple of small indicators within the C-80 display.

I plan on expanding the system further in the future. For example - Bennett now has a NMEA 2000 enabled trim tab display sensor. Currently, the C-80 cannot display this parameter, but I'm told that they are working on the next C-series firmware release for spring of '07.

I have no relationship to RayMarine (other than being a customer), and I am not privy to what new features will be included in the next release, but my hope is that the Bennett tabs will be. All of my information has been from conversation with their tech support folks. For the last couple of years, RayMarine has added many new features to the C-series displays, notably AIS and Engine monitoring features, so hopefully they will add a few more in '07.

The one issue with the C-series displays is that there is no direct NMEA 2000 interface. RayMarine's technical support will show you how to configure a SeaTalk2 cable to work with NMEA 2000, but you have to go to tech support for this information - its not in the instruction manuals.

It would be nice if RayMarine would publish a book about interfacing their systems, but at least they do have a very responsive tech support department. They have answered my many questions on a very timely basis - usually 24 hours or less.

I went with a 2KW radome for many reasons, one of which is my concern about radiation. In an earlier career, I was an electronic technician, and have worked extensively with high-power RF transmitting systems, so I have always been respectful of RF energy.

My feeling is that a 2KW radome is simply safer than a 4KW unit. Not to say that a 4KW unit cannot be installed and used safely, but the primary issue is you must put some distance between the radome and you. Higher powered units have to be placed further away from the occupants to be safe; so characteristics such as the height of your radar arch become predominant factors in deciding where the "safe zone" is.

Beyond the safety issue, I believe there are two significant performance characteristics to keep in mind when comparing different radomes, whether they are 2KW radome, 4KW radome, or open arrays.

The first issue is one of resolution. A 2KW radome might detect two boats close together as one blip, but a 4KW unit might be able to pick out the individual boats. However, my primary reason to have a radar is collision avoidance, so if the issue is whether you avoid one larger or two smaller blips, there is not much significance between the different resolution capabilities.

The more important issue to me is "fade margin". This is a technical term that describes how much signal degradation a system can have and still work.

Radar signals are attenuated somewhat by fog and mist. In these conditions, the signal "fades", resulting in a reduced distance the radar can "see".

For instance, on a bright sunny day, a 2Kw radar might have a 10 mile range, but in bad weather conditions, it might only have a 6 mile range due to attenuation of the signal by fog. In the same situation, a 4Kw unit, having a more powerful signal, may not have a reduced range. This is the whole concept to fade margin.

The last factor is that for DC current, wire distance is an enemy. If the wire size to the helm is marginal, an increased current flow in the wire (although it may still be within safe margins), can result in an excessive voltage drop to the instruments, which might lead to operational issues. For this reason, it is likely that a 4Kw radome will result in the need to run a dedicated DC power circuit to the unit, whereby I can get by without having to run new power cable with a 2Kw radome.

Assessing factors such as likely need for radar coverage distance, weather, and pocketbook will all determine what system you go with. All of my boating is on the Great Lakes, and most of the time, we run up and down the coastline, so we are usually always within 3 miles of shore, so I felt the 2Kw unit was the best fit.

I'll estimate that it took about 2 days for me to install the C-80, radome, and GPS receiver. I did this in steps, so its hard to remember how many actual hours it took. However, I am quite meticulous in these things, and generally take more time than necessary. The 2 days estimate also included distractions like running to the local discount hardware chain store to find those long metric screws required to mount the display unit at a thick helm.

I realize that it is a challenge for many folks to commit to cutting a huge hole in their boat, but for a $1,600 installation charge, it seems to me worthwhile to attempt this project yourself. In the worst-case scenario, it would probably cost less than $1,600 to have someone fix the hole should you find out you made a mistake.

I am simply a boater (a consumer), and am not employed by anyone in the marine industry. My opinions and comments should be considered amateur in nature, and simply come from my direct experience with boating, or from my technical profession, which is non-boating in nature.

My boat is a '95 Carver 325 Aft Cabin.
 
yachtjim said:
This year I added the Raymarine C120 to my boat. I actually bought one of the remanufactured ones but it showed up as new. I am very impressed with how easy the installation and setup has been. I am still in the process of hooking up other components to it such as my Standard Horizon Matrix VHF, but the basic Raymarine system is in the boat and operating flawlessly.

Installation: The instructions were very easy to follow and Ray provides a cutout template, the hardest part was cutting such a big hole in my dash! :shock:, one the hole was cut the unit dropped right in. I found the supplied mounting bolts to be too short as my dash is cored, and I still haven't found adequate bolts, but I cut my hole in the dash very tightly so the unit is staying there on its own at the moment, but proper bolts are at the top of my priority list, I certainly will not go out in any rough seas until I get the bolts in place but the unit is fine for the orientation cruises i am doing right now.

The C120 uses the raystar 120 (now called the 125) GPS antenna for GPS reception. The antenna is Seatalk compatible but has exposed wires on one end instead of a seatalk plug. I used the Raymarine part # R55006 junction box to connect the GPS antenna to the seatalk cable that plugs into the back of the C120. Raymarine provides 3M Scotlok connectors to accomplish this but i found the R55006 to be a much cleaner setup. I flush mounted my antenna on my t-top which is also a very clean look and easy to do. GPS antenna installation and hookup was straight forward and easy to do.

Next was hooking up the radar. I have the 2kW dome which is the easiest of the Ray radars to hook up. It basically plugs right into the back of the C120 with no further wiring necessary. I will do a review on my radar installation later.

Finally I hooked up the DSM 300 (formerly called the DSM 250). This too was plug and play and easy to install. the DSM 300 requires it's own power supply so i wired it to a fused switch on my dash. There is really not much to describe about installing this component as it simply bolts to flat surface, gets plugged into the boats power supply, and gets plugged into the C120.

Operation: When I finally got around to firing everything up I was pleasantly surprised to see it all working perfectly. The radar required no adjustments, it was literally working perfectly. The FF was also putting out a perfect picture of the bottom of my 3' deep slip! Many FF have a difficult time reading this shallow but the DSM is working great for me. The GPS acquired a fix in record time too. I did not need to tell it what state I was in like many GPS's so they can acquire that first fix. It knew where I was right away with absolutely no user input or setup required.

Raymarines interface is very intuitive and they make great use of the soft keys (the buttons at the bottom of the screen that have changing labels depending on what screen you are on). There are plenty of screen layouts available too, although i have already created a set of my own. I have played with the chart/radar overlay feature and find it to be very useful at planing speed going in a straight line, but at slower speeds or when turning it would be greatly enhanced by having a heading sensor. I currently don't have one, and will probably not use that feature until i do. I am adding an autopilot and hope the included heading sensor will help.

The FF holds bottom well at all speeds too which is impressive.

Cartography: the C120 has decent cartography but I still prefer the Garmin Blue charts. If this unit can stand to improve anywhere it is in this area. It looks like Ray has already improved upon it in the new E-Series with navionics Platinum cartography. With that said the chart detail is still awesome. I have also only used it in an area (where I live) where most of the water is shallow and there are no marinas and not too many buoys so there is not much to look at on the chart. I'm sure when I get some cruises in to Annapolis, or once I get out to do some fishing I will have a whole different perspective of their quality.

Summary: I wish there was more to talk about but ther really ins't. Installation is a breeze, and is all plug and play except for connecting a few wires on the GPS antenna. I will follow up in the next few days with some pics of the installation.


Where did you buy it?
 
AWBoater said:
.......I went with a 2KW radome for many reasons, one of which is my concern about radiation. In an earlier career, I was an electronic technician, and have worked extensively with high-power RF transmitting systems, so I have always been respectful of RF energy.

My feeling is that a 2KW radome is simply safer than a 4KW unit. ........

Please tell me more.

Say you had two choices.

Choice one puts the unit 2’ further away from you however the unit was now closer to the height of your head.

Choice two puts the unit higher, above your head but the distance from the unit to your head was 2’ less.

What option is better or more safe?
 
I would say choice 2 because your head should then be out of the main lobe of the antenna. You'll always have side lobes, but from a 2kw radar I wouldn't worry too much about those.

We have a Raymarine 2kw unit on our 320DA, and I'm pretty impressed with how well it picks up small targets.

-CJ
(another former radar tech from many moons ago)
 
Radar by nature is quite directional. For the RayMarine 2Kw and 4Kw radomes, they have a 15 degree pattern off center.

If you can visualize a line, dead-center on the radome, facing forward; straight out at a tangent to the radome, you can think of that as a center-line. The radiation expands from that center-line in a 15 degree angle, both above and below the center-line.

Remember though that even with the radome, the antenna is spinning inside, so radiation will travel 360 deg around the dome on the horizontal plane.

So the answer is that it is always better to be below a radome, and especially if you can be below the 15 degree cone, for there is little radiation at that point.

So I also pick answer 2.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,229
Messages
1,428,969
Members
61,120
Latest member
jingenio
Back
Top