Re bedding portlights on 1995 270 DA

[wrvond]

Re bedding portlights.
All four of my portlights have started leaking, so I obtained new gaskets and screens.

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I was going to use butyl rubber tape to bed with, but have reconsidered that. Primarily because there is a space where the two halves of the port frames overlap that need sealant, but it's too tight to get the rubber in there.
In this photo, you can see the bits of dried up sealant (the black stuff) that fell out when I separated the two rings.

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So I think I'm going to go with 3M 4000 UV for this project.
While far from rotten, the core has suffered some damage from water intrusion. The gelcoat has separated from the core and pieces of the gelcoat actually came off with the sealant. I'm not sure, but based on the difficulty of removal, I suspect Sea Ray used 5200 to bed these originally. Any way, I need to get some epoxy to build this area back up a bit and help the gelcoat adhere to the core.

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[NotHerDecision]

I cannot see the pictures on your post.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[boatman37]

pictures are fine here i just don't have any help to offer

 

[Lazy Daze]

Any way, I need to get some epoxy to build this area back up a bit and help the gelcoat adhere to the core.

I wouldn't worry about building up the area with new gelcoat. Just give it a coat or two of epoxy to seal things and then the sealant will take care of the rest.

When I redid mine, I used black LifeCalk between the two trim pieces as it will last a long, long time. I think I used LifeCalk between the trim piece and the hull, although I may have used LifeSeal as it's a little easier to work with (less messy). When I did the area between the two trim pieces, I used many, many little pieces of paper towels to make it look nice. FYI, a plastic sandwich baggie with the corner cut off works great to dispense a small amount of sealant in a controlled fashion.

I can see the pictures, too.

 

[wrvond]

I wouldn't worry about building up the area with new gelcoat. Just give it a coat or two of epoxy to seal things and then the sealant will take care of the rest.

When I redid mine, I used black LifeCalk between the two trim pieces as it will last a long, long time. I think I used LifeCalk between the trim piece and the hull, although I may have used LifeSeal as it's a little easier to work with (less messy). When I did the area between the two trim pieces, I used many, many little pieces of paper towels to make it look nice. FYI, a plastic sandwich baggie with the corner cut off works great to dispense a small amount of sealant in a controlled fashion.

I can see the pictures, too.

Great information, thanks.
Did you assemble the two halves then fill between the two pieces or coat one and install the other on it?
I am thinking the way to go is install the inner half, fill all voids between the frame and hull, then lay a big bead around the perimeter for the outside half of the assembly. Does this sound right?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Yes, that sounds about right. Install the inner, then add sealant around the perimeter of the hull (I didn't worry about the space between the inner and hull) and install the outer. I also added some directly to the backside of the outer ring and before installing. After that was set, I came back and filled the little gap between the inner and outer.

Another tip... use PLENTY of painter's tape on areas you don't want sealant to get on and to make clean up easier. You can piece together tape around the perimeter of the outer ring (on the hull), as well. But, don't go crazy with the sealant under the outer ring (and the area it will seal against)... Just do you best to guesstimate the amount you will need to have a little extra squeeze out the holes of outer ring's mounting holes and the edges. Otherwise you're just creating more cleanup work. If you fill the backside of outer ring, and lay a nice, single bead on the hull, that will be sufficient.

 

[dpmulvey]

I too see the pix. The third ne down appears to show rot. might be a shadow. If it is rot, it needs to be taken care of. Otherwise all is in vain.

 

[wrvond]

Dennis, great information. Thanks for the tips. I'm going to go with 3M 4000 UV for the bed and black Life Caulk to fill the center ring.

David, the big black mark is on the foam backing of the interior vinyl. While the wood is dry and firm, there is some separation of the wood at the raw edge. I intend to seal that with epoxy, though that area should never see water again!

 

[dpmulvey]

^^^Glad to hear.

 

[wrvond]

How good is "good enough"?

I have all four port lights removed and have been cleaning the hardware of each in the evenings. I spent today cleaning the hull and hole of the starboard side aft port light. So after scraping and scraping with a razor blade until my finger tips are raw, I went over the surface with a 3M 320 grit sanding sponge and wiped it down with acetone. I can still see traces of old caulk but I'm thinking that it's "good enough" to seal. However, I want to get the expert opinion of those that have done this sort of thing before. As bad as this is to do, I don't want to have to do it again any time soon.
Here's some pictures:

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[Bob & Sue]

Re: How good is "good enough"?

Good looking job so far, I did mine in 2013 when we sold it last month the 3m 4000 uv looked like it was just applied. Take a look at these 2 posts you might find some useful info in them. It's a pain but I'd get all the old caulk off before putting it back together, the new caulk won't adhere to old in my opinion from trying to take short cuts they cost you later.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/45694-Porthole-leak-How-to-fix/page2?highlight=porthole+gasket

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/58324-Rebedding-Portlights-with-New-Gaskets-amp-Screens

 

[Lazy Daze]

The only thing I would worry about is if a silicone-based sealant had been used, but based on what you have said in this thread and what I'm familiar seeing, I very much doubt the old stuff was silicone. The problem there is that "sometimes" it can be difficult to get a new sealant to stick well after silicone has been used since it leaches into the gel.

But... I definitely don't see any need to go any further than you have. Any little bit of sealant that is still hanging around on there is very well attached and "has earned the right to stay around longer". :smt001

 

[Bob & Sue]

Here are pics of my before and after. Check the links in my previous post for details.

 

[wrvond]

Re: bedding portlights on 1995 270 DA

Thanks for all the input guys! I finally finished all the reading, some I had read before, but now that I have everything apart it all makes much more sense. I read where Turtle recommended keeping all the screws segregated, but mine do not have nuts on the outside, they are just wood screws on both sides. I kept all the port lights, frames, screws and such separated and labeled, then realized that they are all standard production line parts and probably interchangeable. But since I have them all labeled anyway, no harm in putting them all back where they came from.

I have all the port lights cleaned and ready to go back in as soon as I get the hull prepped. Here's what I have done:
Inside half ready to disassemble and clean-

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Remove lexan window -

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Remove old gasket and screen. Clean all surfaces with acetone. A drill with brass bristled wire wheel makes short work of old caulk on the outside ring -

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Old style gasket and screen -

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New screen has a hard plastic frame -

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Notice there is an inside and an outside -

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The new gasket has a self adhesive back -

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There is a seam where the ends of the gasket are glued together, it should be oriented at the top of the frame when you install it -

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There is a groove for the screen frame to fit into -

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All cleaned up -

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Ensure the groove is on the inside edge -

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Insert the screen -

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I don't know how the lexan would handle acetone, so I used alcohol to clean old, hard gasket material stuck to the surface. Install the lexan window, you'll probably have to adjust the dogs out to allow for the new, thicker gasket -

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Four spiffy port lights ready to go back for another 20 years!

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