Refrigerator AC/DC?

S

Searay-Bob

New Member
Apr 4, 2010
126
Lake Champlain
Boat Info
1989 340DA, Garmin GPS4212 with sounder and radar
Engines
Twin 454 Mercruisers
How do you change over from Shore power the 12 volt for the refrig? I have a switch on the dash and one in the main control panel. What do you have to do? I am missing something:smt021
Thanks
Bob:thumbsup:
89 340DA
 
Nothing. It switches automatically, If both 12VDC and 120VAC are available, it'll run on 120.

They switch automatically. Just turn on the appropriate breakers and it's done. Sometimes you might want to manage the power source, just turn off and on as appropriate. For example, I found that the cockpit refrigerator generates more RFI on 120VAC, so back in ye olde days when I'd listen to olde-fashioned terrestrial radio, I'd turn off the 120VAC breaker for the refrigerator and run it on 12VDC.

Best regards,
Frank
 
Mine is the same only the 12V side on my Notcold doesn't work. I tried and tried to fix it, but it appears the the board behind the grate is bad. Replacement is not available, and if it is, it's almost cheaper to replace the unit. If you pull the fridge out you can check the 12V input and make sure that you actually have voltage there. The board has a series of relays that switch to a transformer that will adjust to the proper voltage. You can search for the service manual which gives wiring schematics.
If I'm out for a long time I start the genny and cool it back down. If you keep stuff in the fridge and keep it cold, it actually stays cold for a long time.
Look Here
Mine said the oscillator board is bad. From looking at the schematic it appears to me that it is just a series of relays. I gave up trying to fix it after thinking that the condenser thermistor was bad. It was open, I found a replacement thermistor and wired it in with no luck.
 
Mine has a swithc inside the fridge itself 12v or 120v
 
OK I have gotten a couple of answers and I still don't know? If there is a switch the only one that I see on the unit is the one on the bottom where it is turned on and set the temp. I have a main power switch in my main panel that is hook up to shore or gen and has a amber light. OK when that is on it works.:smt001 When I leave and shut off the power then it dosen't work? What is the switch on the dash just under the fan switches DO?? is there a fuse in there that could be bad?:huh:It say's refrigerator?
Bob:thumbsup:
 
Why are you shutting off the power? You can leave shore power on and leave your fridge AC breaker on. If you are shutting down AC power totally, you are also shutting off power to the battery charger.

As other folks have said, as long as the breaker in the cockpit is on, when you turn off AC power, the DC should kick in and run the fridge. If it is not, you have a 12 V problem.

Hope that helps.
 
wileecoyote said:
Mine is the same only the 12V side on my Notcold doesn't work. I tried and tried to fix it, but it appears the the board behind the grate is bad. Replacement is not available, and if it is, it's almost cheaper to replace the unit. If you pull the fridge out you can check the 12V input and make sure that you actually have voltage there. The board has a series of relays that switch to a transformer that will adjust to the proper voltage. You can search for the service manual which gives wiring schematics.
If I'm out for a long time I start the genny and cool it back down. If you keep stuff in the fridge and keep it cold, it actually stays cold for a long time.
Look Here
Mine said the oscillator board is bad. From looking at the schematic it appears to me that it is just a series of relays. I gave up trying to fix it after thinking that the condenser thermistor was bad. It was open, I found a replacement thermistor and wired it in with no luck.
Click to expand...

There are a few makes that will fit in the hole that are AC/DC. Search Nova Kool but they are about $1000-$1200. When my Norcrap quit I had just ordered my new swim platform and did not have the bootie for a fridge too so I went out and bought a GE 120v that fit the hole. It was great when we were plugged in but as you know, you can't always do that. So last summer I installed a Xantrex 1800 watt inverter and 2 golf cart batteries. I only use the inverter for the fridge and the TV DVD player. The inverter has a built in transfer switch and a display panel. It works great. When we are going for a cruise and I kill the 120 it switches over to the inverter and the batts.
 
Ours is an '82 so yours is a little different. Sound like if you have a toggle at the helm then there should be a fuse - not sure if that contols both 120 & 12v or just the 12v though. Just swap the fuse and see. Is there power to the toggle?

Also, the 12v has to be connected somewhere. See if you can locate the wire and trace back. It could be off at the battery or at another power source. Peek into the bilge and look at the battery bank. Is there a unattached wire or a wire with an in-line fuse there? But first make sure the 12v at the fridge is not hot.

Again, the post '83s may have a bettery wiring sytem that the previous models, ie a power block somewhere?
 
I'll throw mine in the hat here...I just purchased a 1986 Weekender 300, which I LOVE!! But I am in the same boat (no pun intended!) I can't figure out a way to get my fridge on 12v. It works great and gets very cold, but when I unplug from shore power the fridge loses power. The only control I find in the fridge is the thermostat. Anyone have this model boat tht can give me guidance?? Thanks!!
 
Lucky's said:
I'll throw mine in the hat here...I just purchased a 1986 Weekender 300, which I LOVE!! But I am in the same boat (no pun intended!) I can't figure out a way to get my fridge on 12v. It works great and gets very cold, but when I unplug from shore power the fridge loses power. The only control I find in the fridge is the thermostat. Anyone have this model boat tht can give me guidance?? Thanks!!
Click to expand...

I have an 87 300 Sundancer. The basic switches should be the same as your boat.
For shore power to the fridge:
I hook up shore power and turn on fridge breaker on the 110 panel located in the cabin.
For 12 volt power to fridge:
Batteries on, and flip 12 volt fridge breaker switch to on. The breaker switch is located at the helm, below the controls.
If that doesn't get the 12 volt power to the fridge there could be at least three reasons:
1. The 12 volt breaker is bad.
2. The 12 volt side of the fridge is shot.
3. Someone replaced the AC/DC fridge with a much cheaper AC only model.
 
Thanks for the tip. I will check next time I get to the boat, but I don't think my cockpit has a breaker switch for the fridge. The only fridge switch I recall seeing is on the 110 panel.
 
Bob, Please go HERE and download the owners manual for your boat. It clearly tells how it operates. When you unhook shore power and are running the boat flip the switch on the dash under Refrig. This will cause it to automaticly switch over to 12V power (If the fridge is operating properly). You can tell by turning off the 110V power and flipping the switch. If the light on the front of the fridge is on then it's probably working fine.
If its not working, reference the service manual on my previous post. First step for me was to pull the fridge out (very easy to do, instructions in owners manual) and check for 12V on the input wiring with the switch on.
 
Thanks for the info! I am going up in the morning and I will check it out. I think I remember a inline fuse when I took out those switches so I will check that also. Hopefully that is all it is. have a big trip planed for the 4th.
Thanks
Bob:thumbsup:
 
Bob
Here's my panel. Top right, second from the top is the AC fridge breaker. Bottom right, second from the bottom is the DC fridge breaker. To get the DC to run the fridge, the breaker on the lower right must be flipped on. If I am on shore power and both breakers are ON, it will run on AC. If I remember, I send the admiral down to flip the DC breaker on when we are travelling. If I'm on the hook for the day, I don't bother putting the DC breaker on. We keep all the liquid refreshments in the cooler so the fridge doesn't get opened much at all.

If mine crapped out (or should I say WHEN it craps out), I would give a lot of consideration to a similarly sized all-AC unit, based on how I use my fridge.

105_1968.jpg
 
Ron, You are confusing things! Our panels look like this:

A/C Breaker is on the main panel inside and is the 4th one down on the main panel. This is for A/C
3020337755_4a49155d28_b.jpg


This is the starboard panel at the helm. Notice the switch all the way starboard. This is the 12V switch that you flip to run off 12V. Couldn't be any easier.

3020284099_b066137dcc.jpg
 
OK I got it! It was missing a screw from the switch?:smt021
Thanks for all your help!!.
Bob
 
By the way my panel dosen't look like either one? But what dose it mean when there is only one amber light lite instead of 2 but everything still works?
Bob
 
what dose it mean when there is only one amber light lite
Click to expand...
One dead amber light (??)
 
I'm thinking he means the polarity lights under the shore power indicator. Mine on the main panel flicker while the A/C one stays lit. When I run off the Genny they light up the main bright with no flicker. I have switched cables last year and didnt change as I remember.
I'm thinking that probably means I need to replace the shore power plug, but I'm not sure? I was meaning to pose that same question, but never got to it. Now you've reminded me.
 
Mark
If they work with the genny and not with shore power than it's not a dead panel light. If they NEVER both work it's likely a dead light bulb. 1/2 of my lights on the AC side are dead or flicker. Assuming all three lights work, than it's probably the connections in the shore power tower that are crossed.
 
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