Replace Sanitation / Waste Hose 400DB

PMC

PMC

Well-Known Member
Apr 10, 2009
1,454
Long Island, NY
Boat Info
2001 40 Sedan Bridge
Engines
Cummins 6CTA
I'm going to take on this job of replacing the sanitation hose this season, and needs some advice. I have the original rubber hose (1 1/2"), and started to notice some checking in the tight radius', along with a slight odor up close. Its not leaking, but the stink alone....its time to replace.

I can find the original rubber, but wanted to know if any newer products are recommended? I see several PVC type hoses, and could use some real experience feedback if they work or not. This is for a 400DB, with mostly long runs, fairly flat and level.

For those with this model boat, any idea how much hose (length) is needed? I'm looking to replace ALL of it, including the toilet to vacuum pumps (2x).
 
Certified marine sanitation hose will last 10-15 years. When I bought my boat in 2014 they said I should replace my hose because of cracking. There were no leaks and still aren't. They told me to have the marina do it, it would be about $2000. I think the replacement hose itself was over $800. Regrettably I declined. Hindsight, I should have just had it done before I took possession of the boat. It is a big job.
 
Both Sealand and Trident make a decent 1.5" 'sani shield' or 'odor safe' hose. This is one area where you buy the expensive stuff -- yeah, like 7-8 bucks a foot... It's no joke.

It's a good opportunity for you to ensure no dips are traps where waste can settle in....

You'll most likely get a discount on a 50' role... you will want one for each of your heads. On our 420 Sedan, the Heads are a solid 35' run to the Vacuflush heads. By the time you cut fresh ends, run the pump to the holding tank - you'll use up those 50' rolls pretty quickly. If you do have extra, it's great for insulating wire runs because it's smooth wall.
 
Oh great. Now I got this one to worry about. Take good notes, Paul. I'm sure I will need them soon since our boats seem to be in lock step.
 
Sea Ray used Sealand hose in the 80s and early 90s. Its a white hose. We have never had any issues with cracking or smell. I would highly recommend using it. You can buy it from Northeast Sanitation on Long Island
 
This might be a crazy thought, and a ton of work, but what about rigid pvc?
 
PMC said:
This might be a crazy thought, and a ton of work, but what about rigid pvc?
Click to expand...
There is a lot of vibration, pounding, flexing with power boats. I am not an expert but would look into the probability of eventually developing a crack somewhere.
 
I have used both the Sealand and Trident offerings, as well as the Poly X. The Poly X is the most expensive, but offers the longest life, and has the great advantage, in some areas, of much better flexibility. It is far, far easier to route around obstructions, and much easier to handle. As in all things, you get what you pay for. As to rigid PVC, I have incorporated it into my 340 (see blog for details), but not adjacent to an engine, and I fabricated silicone lined mounts to allow some flexibility. PVC, if installed correctly and with some thought, offers almost limitless life, but it has to be used properly.

Dale
 
My Motor Yacht has mainly rigid PVC. There are a couple of runs of flex but not too much.
 
When I redid some of my hoses, I seriously considered using rigid PVC. In the end, given the much shorter distance I had, along with not having as much of a "long, flat, run" as the bigger boats, I opted to just use all flex hose. I wanted to use the rigid stuff, but it just wasn't as feasible and any cost savings were negligible - given, again, the short distances. If you take into account the precautions mentioned above, there's no reason this can't work well. And in a larger boat, I think it makes more sense.

I would, however, try to avoid 90* corners in favor of 45* corners or flex hose for most bends. I would save the 90* fittings for where I had good access to them. I would also be inclined to add cleanouts in key areas. But I might be overthinking those points.
 
Tomco said:
Boogabooster replaced his hoses and made a video which might be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkjAhhQlvhc

He also had a problem with the accumulator tank .. might be of interest as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPaG2kMEh3M
Click to expand...

I have seen that first hose replacement video. Good stuff!! - I curse the Sea Ray engineers, I've been in bilge (under the VIP Bed) to replace duckbills before. It is not exactly the roomiest of places to work in.
Looks like through the years, the Vacufluch system has changed. I don't have that large accumulator tank, and separate pump. the stuffed 2 of the following images in that area
vg2_vacuum_generator_full.jpg
 
ZZ13 said:
There is a lot of vibration, pounding, flexing with power boats. I am not an expert but would look into the probability of eventually developing a crack somewhere.
Click to expand...

CougarCruiser said:
And the heat of those motors
Click to expand...

MasterFab said:
I have used both the Sealand and Trident offerings, as well as the Poly X. The Poly X is the most expensive, but offers the longest life, and has the great advantage, in some areas, of much better flexibility. It is far, far easier to route around obstructions, and much easier to handle. As in all things, you get what you pay for. As to rigid PVC, I have incorporated it into my 340 (see blog for details), but not adjacent to an engine, and I fabricated silicone lined mounts to allow some flexibility. PVC, if installed correctly and with some thought, offers almost limitless life, but it has to be used properly.

Dale
Click to expand...

Jmwarren said:
My Motor Yacht has mainly rigid PVC. There are a couple of runs of flex but not too much.
Click to expand...

Lazy Daze said:
When I redid some of my hoses, I seriously considered using rigid PVC. In the end, given the much shorter distance I had, along with not having as much of a "long, flat, run" as the bigger boats, I opted to just use all flex hose. I wanted to use the rigid stuff, but it just wasn't as feasible and any cost savings were negligible - given, again, the short distances. If you take into account the precautions mentioned above, there's no reason this can't work well. And in a larger boat, I think it makes more sense.

I would, however, try to avoid 90* corners in favor of 45* corners or flex hose for most bends. I would save the 90* fittings for where I had good access to them. I would also be inclined to add cleanouts in key areas. But I might be overthinking those points.
Click to expand...

Very interesting perspectives on rigid PVC - Going in this direction, you need to overcome temperature and vibration. Already working in tight spaces, hose is sounding a little better of an option. The longest run is parallel with the PORT engine, and is damn near impossible to gain access. It is not a very 'fabrication' friendly space to work in.
 
ZZ13 said:
Oh great. Now I got this one to worry about. Take good notes, Paul. I'm sure I will need them soon since our boats seem to be in lock step.
Click to expand...

Haha - add the bridge windshield to your list of 'soon'. I pulled it apart today, to re-bed, and tighten up the sloppy screws.
 
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