Screw removal

Bottom Line

Well-Known Member
Oct 6, 2006
1,809
Table Rock Lake(Branson MO)
Boat Info
2003 360 DA
2002 Sea Doo GTI (sold)
2002 300 DA (sold)
Engines
Twin Mercruiser 8.1L
Westerbeke Generator
I put new speakers in my boat this weekend. I used the screws provided from Polk. I stripped the heads on 4 screws out. I drilled pilot holes about 1 drill bit size smaller than the screw. One screw I had to end up snapping off and redrilling. I know there are alot of guys on the board who do wood working. Has anyone ever used a screw remover like these? Do they work? Is there something better?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952154000P?vName=Tools&keyword=screw+remover


It also made we wonder if I should have bought my own screws to use....because surely professional installers dont put up with frustration like this.
 
There are numerous styles of what you linked to. I've never used that particular style, but I think it would be fine.

If you're snapping off heads, the pilot hole isn't big enough. When working with fiberglass, the drill bit you use should be slightly larger (in diameter) than the screw shank - in between the shank and the threads.
 
There are numerous styles of what you linked to. I've never used that particular style, but I think it would be fine.

If you're snapping off heads, the pilot hole isn't big enough. When working with fiberglass, the drill bit you use should be slightly larger (in diameter) than the screw shank - in between the shank and the threads.


I wasnt snapping the screw heads off...but just stripping them out. I did snap one of the screws off behind the speaker, just because I couldn't get it to move anymore.

Thanks for the tip on using slightly larger drill bits....I didnt know that about fiberglass. I had the worst problem in the radar arch with the fiberglass and wood.
 
I didnt know that about fiberglass.

The reason is because fiberglass doesn't compress as much as wood.

Also, SS screws are softer. You really have to hold good pressure on it. But, if it's getting that hard to turn, back it out and re-drill slightly larger before it becomes a problem.

Did you also counter-sink the holes? Otherwise you may get spider-cracks. Basically, you can use a drill bit that is larger than the threads. By hand, twist the bit to remove enough of the gelcoat so the threads will not touch any of the gel as you...ummm... screw. :smt001
 
For the price, it would be a good first step. I've had success with mine on some screws, but had no luck with them on others. If the extractor doesn't work, use a drill bit slightly larger than the shank of the screw (not the head) and drill the head off of the screw. Lift the speaker away and then use a pair of vice grips to unscrew the remainder of the screw.
 
Try putting a dab of valve grinding compound in the screw head. It works wonders!
 

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