paulswagelock
Well-Known Member
15-19" adjustable arm with 1/2" shaft.
I don't remember the blade length off hand.
I don't remember the blade length off hand.
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15-19" adjustable arm with 1/2" shaft.
I don't remember the blade length off hand.
In my humble opinion the wiper is more headache than it's worth. I removed mine, rain-x the glass, and haven't looked back.
In my humble opinion the wiper is more headache than it's worth. I removed mine, rain-x the glass, and haven't looked back.
OK....I have to ask....why did you feel that way?
OK....I have to ask....why did you feel that way?
15-19" adjustable arm with 1/2" shaft.
I don't remember the blade length off hand.
In my humble opinion the wiper is more headache than it's worth. I removed mine, rain-x the glass, and haven't looked back.
Removing the fridge is relatively easy...some screws and brackets.
The bad news, I think, is that its removal will not reveal direct access. I feel like there is another panel in between, but it's been a while since I've removed my fridge so it's worth a try.
I used a $30 bore scope from amazon to check and make sure there is an access panel behind the fridge. There is, so I'm going to try and take it out tomorrow. As far as removal, are the screws around the outside edge of the fridge just for holding trim, or do they have to be removed? I see in the manual, that there are 2 screws on either side of the interior of the fridge that are covered by plugs.
Is there anything else that I need to be aware of prior to taking it out?
Thanks.
It's been a while, but I seem to recall it was about 8-10 screws. Take those off and it pretty easily slid out. (Note that I have a 2011 which is the black fridge/door style; you might have the newer SS/drawer style so there could be some differences.)
I feel like the cable could have been longer and found myself trying to find a decent spot to place the fridge once out.
Last but not least, you'll be exposed to SR's "rough" fiberglass so you can expect no less than 5 blood-drawing cuts, so wear gloves or have band-aids/H2O2 nearby.
Back to the cold beer issue. When I took out the fridge, it already has the 120v rectifier installed. All I need is to get a 3 prong cord and an outlet. Is there any benefit to running it on 120v instead of the 12v with the battery charger on "dock power mode?"
My radio only has power when the ignition is turned on. I saw some other threads stating that there is an accessory position, but it doesn't appear to be an option on my boat (2014 300 slx).
Is this how the radio is typically wired, and if so, is there any reason I shouldn't just find a wire that is powered independent of the ignition?
The reason is that i typically switch off my port battery and turn the starboard switch to the 2nd batter, which is a bigger deep cycle, when I am on the hook. When I do this, my vessel view states that there is an alarm for low voltage and the vessel view is on the entire time.
On another note, what is the angled cleat at the base of the anchor roller for on the 300? I tied off on it this weekend, and within 2 hours, the friction from the anchor roller cut through my anchor line causing a lot of excitement. I'm going to make a Y snubber to go between my two bow cleats and attach to the chain, but was curious what that other cleat is for.
Thanks.
We're wired the same way; ignition keys must be switched to on for the radio to work.
Do you have any issues with leaving the starboard battery on the entire time you are on the hook? I was switching it off but it seems to cause more problems that it fixes.
I have to take a look into the electrical panel as i'm having an issue with my rear speakers, so I'll see if mine is any easier to change than yours was.
With the windlass, do you use a snubber from the two box cleats when you are on the hook, or do something else?
Thanks for the help. On a positive note, I did learn how to do a rope to chain splice pretty quick, I think ...
2012 250 SLX
Does anyone have a link to where I can read on how to operate the toilet on my boat - or post here how it works exactly? I bought my boat used and it did not come with any directions on how to operate the toilet or how to empty the tank.
It looks (and smells) like its never been used before. Do i need to add some type of water or chemicals before or after use? It seems like there should be some sort of flush mechanism or something to clean the bowl after someone uses it but all i have found is a "trap door" to allow the bowl to empty itself down into the holding tank. Does it work like a port-a-john in which you must have some liquid in it before you use it? Sorry, i'm clueless here, does not seem intuitive to me and never owned a boat with a head before.