Serpentine belt pulley not aligned - 2007 240 SD 5.7l 300hp

MN240SD

New Member
May 31, 2020
3
MN
Boat Info
240 Sundeck 2007
Engines
300hp 350 Magnum Mercruiser w/Bravo III drive
We have owned the boat (2007 240 Sundeck, 5.7l 300hp Mercruiser) for 3 years and never had an issue until now.
The belt came off (not broken) under idle and noticed that the pulley on the bottom is missing a bolt and has slide out of alignment from the others. The pulley only rotates a few degrees back and forth by hand.

Marine Max is 2-3 weeks out on service and not sure if we'd have it back in time for fourth of July so I might have to fix (or try to) myself.

Anyone have this problem before? Not sure what the pulley drives and seems odd that bolt came loose without there being a bigger issue.

Thank you for any advice or comments :)

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That is normally where the raw water pump is positioned. Does it look like the shaft is walking out of the housing? Not bad to replace on a trailer but in the water it is below the waterline.
 
That isn't a threaded hole for keeping pulley on. It is for removing the pulley with a puller. Would be very rare if that pulley is walking off the shaft. I would check the bolts that attach the raw water pump to the engine block. Something will be very obvious. There are only 2 bolts that hold the bracket on. I just replaced mine last week. PIA, but doable. And if in the water, just turn off the seacock and you will be fine. Keep us posted.
 
So you're saying it moves in/out but only spins a few degrees either direction?

Is it just the pulley/shaft moving back and forth? Or the pump/bracket?
 
It's not the pulley walking off of the shaft, it's the entire shaft walking out of the housing. This can happen on earlier water pumps when the bearings fail. It may be possible to repair with new seals and bearings but at this point you are likely better off just replacing the pump. Hardin marine makes an improved version that some have had good luck with.
 
Also, it only turns a few degrees because there is a tight fitting rubber impeller in there. With a little extra force, a properly working pump will spin, just not as easily as say an alternator or power steering pulley.

I believe the pulley alignment bulletin deals more with the alternator and/or the idler pulley, not the sea water pump.

If your seawater pump pulley is out of alignment, I would say catastrophic failure of the pump is imminent.
 
It's not the pulley walking off of the shaft, it's the entire shaft walking out of the housing. This can happen on earlier water pumps when the bearings fail. It may be possible to repair with new seals and bearings but at this point you are likely better off just replacing the pump. Hardin marine makes an improved version that some have had good luck with.
+1

If you can move the pulley in and out of the housing, your bearings inside the pump are toast. A new pump is in order.

Hardin Marine Gen 7 Plus. Get it with the pulley already installed for an extra $100.

It's easy to understand how to remove the pump, but a PIA to remove it, mainly because of the hoses. Take your time and you'll get it. It's two bolts and one nut, then two hose clamps, unless you have a quick disconnect for the intake hose, which on mine is red.
 
Thank you everyone for the replies! Much appreciate it.
I will be looking at it closer today and update again.
 
I just had this happen to me the entire shaft and pulley came out! The fix is a new pump. When we looked at it the housing did NOT have a grove for the clip that is supposed to hold the bearing in place, also no clip to be found.
 
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Those pumps shafts and bearings can be replaced unless it’s catastrophic failure and there is damage the housing. You also may need to replace the pulley it’s pressed on, pulled off and it is a 50/50 shot of getting the old pulley off the old shaft without damaging it in the process. (May need to verify that part#)
 
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View attachment 107354 Those pumps shafts and bearings can be replaced unless it’s catastrophic failure and there is damage the housing. You also may need to replace the pulley it’s pressed on, pulled off and it is a 50/50 shot of getting the old pulley off the old shaft without damaging it in the process. (May need to verify that part#)

Thanks for that ... are there instructions for r/r of the pulley? Just wondering if a standard puller will work on either end -- like maybe pull the pulley off from the front, then turn the puller around to get the pulley on the new shaft? Shouldn't need a hydraulic press to get it on?
 
Thanks for that ... are there instructions for r/r of the pulley? Just wondering if a standard puller will work on either end -- like maybe pull the pulley off from the front, then turn the puller around to get the pulley on the new shaft? Shouldn't need a hydraulic press to get it on?
There is a special puller that attaches to the groove in the centre and threads in to the shaft to "push" the pulley back on. https://www.amazon.ca/HFS-Automotiv...ocphy=9072430&hvtargid=pla-570590600313&psc=1

I don't think you will have much luck with a standard puller. I used a shop press and had to support the pulley very close to the hub to avoid bending it.
 
Thank you to everyone that replied. Very much appreciate it.
Due to the location of the pump and not having enough time to take it on myself I brought it in to have replaced.
Total cost of a complete new pump and labor was just over $900.
 
…unless you have a quick disconnect for the intake hose, which on mine is red.

Do you have a picture of this quick disconnect? Is it something that can be added to existing installs? Would be wonderful to have on my STBD side pump.
 
Do you have a picture of this quick disconnect? Is it something that can be added to existing installs? Would be wonderful to have on my STBD side pump.
Poor photo but you can see the red hose below the manifold and the connect/disconnect
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Poor photo but you can see the red hose below the manifold and the connect/disconnect
View attachment 110432


Thanks. I found the parts numbers - but it seems to be on the pickup side only (I only looked at one parts diagram). The output doesnt have the quick disconnect. Do you think it could be added to the output as well, or perhaps concerns over water pressure?

Today - I have to disconnect both hoses from the far end (strainer and trans cooler) and pull everything forward with 2-3ft of hoses attached - through brackets that hold each hose - all because I cant I cant get the hose off the pump. Not nearly enough space. I end up taking out the mechanical fuel pump / raw water pump as a single assembly. Disconnects would surely help! Or maybe there is some magic lube to apply to the pump housing nipples that makes the hoses slide off easier?

Sorry for the thread hijack.
 

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