Sounder- Transducer Installation

Starboard 6

New Member
Feb 6, 2010
41
Virginia Beach, VA
Boat Info
280 Sundancer, 2007
Engines
5.0 Mercruisers, Bravo III drives, 5.0 Gen
I am finalizing the purchase of my electronics and did not realize there were several options for installation of the transducer. Does anyone have insight?

Cutting it in, shooting through the hull or the stern (puck) options seem like a pricing decision. How much performance deference is there between the options?

I will mostly be fishing the Chesapeake Bay. (CBBT, Light Tower, etc.) I do not want to have an ineffective setup just to save a few bucks... however, this s#*t is getting expensive!

Thanks! Tom
 
Tom,

I'll be doing transducer installation this spring as well. Not too long ago I got email notification from BOE where Jim had recorded a 2 part video on how to perform the installation. I found the video pretty helpfull. Here's the link

Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcBdkjCtifA
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd-RPx34nUE

I just checked and by some reason the links didn't work for me. May be it'll work for you.

Jim, in case if you see this post could you please advise what are the working links for these two clips?

Thanks,
Alex.
 
Thanks Alex- I do not think I will be doing this myself, but I will check out the link.

I am looking for advice on what the advantages or disadvantages are ofthe various set-ups. Any insight would be helpful!
 
A shoot-thru can work, but it depends on the hull design/structure and where the puck is placed based on the hull structure.

A thru-hull (cutting it in) is a guaranteed way of getting your best performance.

FYI... your current, OEM depthfinder is a thru-hull.

You can probably google the various terms for more specific information.
 
I was going shoot thru with an Airmar P79, but when I needed to have the boat hauled out for dripless shaft seals (not) replacement I decided to go the Airmar B60 thru hull route for reasons Dennis mentioned. I am having the dealer install the B60 but I will add the DSM30 Raymarine sounder, plus radar, heading sensor, SeaTalk switch and NMEA 0183 mux.
 
I am finalizing the purchase of my electronics and did not realize there were several options for installation of the transducer. Does anyone have insight?

Cutting it in, shooting through the hull or the stern (puck) options seem like a pricing decision. How much performance deference is there between the options?

I will mostly be fishing the Chesapeake Bay. (CBBT, Light Tower, etc.) I do not want to have an ineffective setup just to save a few bucks... however, this s#*t is getting expensive!

Thanks! Tom

I've used both types. I do agree with Dennise the thru hull is very effective and works well, however, the last one I had was a transom mount and workrd perfect, I did not lose bottom at any speed. The transom mount was on my 1988 Sea Ray 30 ft Express cruiser (straight screws). I have since mounted another transom mount on my 2004 Sea Ray 215 and I've had my boat up to 40 mph and do not lose bottom. The whole key in a transducer mount is to be sure it does not have anything ahead of it that will cause turbulance, do not hesitate to ask the dealer where you buy the depth/fishfinder/gps about the proper way to install. I have the Lowrance LCX 27C and it's a great depthsounder/fishfinder/gps combo, with a good size screen. The cost is about $1100.00 Canadian up here but you will do better down south. I can't speak to any other models as the guys I know all run Lowrance electronics where I am. Remeber, the install is the key, do it right and either will work well for you.
 
Great info everyone. I think I need to get specifics from the dealer on the install costs to make my final decision. I would like to get the thru-hull option.

Lazy Daze- if you read this again, the OEM cut-thru is the Sea Ray design if I understand what you are saying. Can that be repaced with the one to match with the Garmin Sounder? Can one transducer serve the OEM and Garmin?

Thanks again for the info!
 
The timing of this is impeccable, our 280 came with a Garmin Sounder 188, which is discontinued, but seems to be a very nice unit. We also have a Garmin 440s on the old boat that we are selling. Looking at the two models I think I am going to go with the 188 on our 280 as it has a bigger screen and does (as I read it) everything the 440s does. However, I will be losing the color display.
Anyway, I just picked up the thru hull Garmin P319 transducer yesterday and log in this morning to see this thread—what timing.
My question, as Lazy Daze mentioned, the current depth finder is thru hull and not working. The placement of that OEM finder is roughly three feet ahead of the stern—Starboard. I am planning to utilize that hole.
My question, does that seem to far forward?
Another question, I have not verified it yet but the new transducer seems to have a greater diameter then the OEM finder, I am curious on how I can widen that hole if needed and without a pilot hole. Thinking sawzall it square, insert a square block and use the block as the pilot guide.
Any thought would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 
By the way, the 280 and the sounder 188; the Sounder is just hooked up to a GPS ball mounted on the arch--i want the thru hull to utilize the other features like, Depth, temp, and fish-finding.
 
Great info everyone. I think I need to get specifics from the dealer on the install costs to make my final decision. I would like to get the thru-hull option.

Lazy Daze- if you read this again, the OEM cut-thru is the Sea Ray design if I understand what you are saying. Can that be repaced with the one to match with the Garmin Sounder? Can one transducer serve the OEM and Garmin?

Thanks again for the info!

Yes, cut-thru = thru-hull (as in "it goes through the hull").

I pretty sure the OEM transducer will not talk to the Garmin unit. So, if you use the OEM hole for your new transducer, you would lose your depth reading in your SC gauge.
 
The timing of this is impeccable, our 280 came with a Garmin Sounder 188, which is discontinued, but seems to be a very nice unit. We also have a Garmin 440s on the old boat that we are selling. Looking at the two models I think I am going to go with the 188 on our 280 as it has a bigger screen and does (as I read it) everything the 440s does. However, I will be losing the color display.
Anyway, I just picked up the thru hull Garmin P319 transducer yesterday and log in this morning to see this thread—what timing.
My question, as Lazy Daze mentioned, the current depth finder is thru hull and not working. The placement of that OEM finder is roughly three feet ahead of the stern—Starboard. I am planning to utilize that hole.
My question, does that seem to far forward?
Another question, I have not verified it yet but the new transducer seems to have a greater diameter then the OEM finder, I am curious on how I can widen that hole if needed and without a pilot hole. Thinking sawzall it square, insert a square block and use the block as the pilot guide.
Any thought would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Is your new transducer square? Why not just use the hole's opening as a guide and trace out a pattern to make a round plug? Then you could make it fit nice and tight, use a little glue, wait for it to set up and then go to town! Actually, if you make it tight enough, you may not even need the glue.

However, if it was me, I would just use a Roto Zip type tool. I have some side-cutting drill bits that fit into my Dremel and it would work perfectly for that job.

If you never used one before... do some practicing. If you're not careful, it can get away from you. It's not that bad, though.
 
Thanks Lazy--The Diameter of the new transducer requires I believe around 2 ¼ (cannot remember the instructions off the top of my head) and it is round. However, the old looks to be about a 1 ¾ diameter hole—but I have to verify when I climb onboard this weekend (Ya...unwrapping her this weekend). I just remember when I was cleaning the ER, I remember saying to myself that this transducer looks a little thin.

The rotor-zip is a great idea if I need to widen the hole.

In regards to the placement—I think using the same hole as the OEM means that it is a perfect location for the replacement—Would you agree?
 
Yes, I agree. Remember to follow the instructions about digging away a little of the wood that's sandwiched between the fiberglass layers and fill with epoxy (if you have a cored hull, that is).
 
I installed the transom mounted unit. I wanted the water temp feature and didn't feel like drilling the hole through the bottom of the hull. The transom unit was less expensive as well and the hole for the wire is above the water line.
Here's some info from when I started this project ("some positive projects started")
GPStransducerinstall2-23-086.jpg

Inside Transom before
GPStransducerinstall2-23-082.jpg

I used a Forstner bit for the through hull next to the Starboard Trim tab. I verified inside the engine compartment that this area was clear from any obstructions.
GPStransducerinstall2-23-0811.jpg

This bit gives a very clean cut and unlike a hole-saw won’t grind the edges of the hole potentially separated the fiberglass layers. This way I know once I filled it with 5200 it would be well sealed.
GPStransducerinstall2-23-087.jpg

GPStransducerinstall2-23-088.jpg

I cleaned up this extra 5200, and put a piece of blue tape over it to hold the rest of it in. I should have put the tape there before I filled it.
GPStransducerinstall2-23-08.jpg


Tie wrapped everything up nice and snug.
Wireruns2-23-089.jpg

Wireruns2-23-08.jpg
 
If you are going to be using for fishing IMHO - you do not want to go with a shoot-thru. You will want to water temp feature and you don't get that with a shoot-thru.

I went with a transum mount for my Garmin system. Nice to have two depth systems on board.
 
I’m having a transom mount added to my Garmin, temp, speed and keeping the SC as a back up.
 
Thanks Lazy--The Diameter of the new transducer requires I believe around 2 ¼ (cannot remember the instructions off the top of my head) and it is round. However, the old looks to be about a 1 ¾ diameter hole—but I have to verify when I climb onboard this weekend (Ya...unwrapping her this weekend). I just remember when I was cleaning the ER, I remember saying to myself that this transducer looks a little thin.

The rotor-zip is a great idea if I need to widen the hole.

In regards to the placement—I think using the same hole as the OEM means that it is a perfect location for the replacement—Would you agree?

Fitting two hole saws on one mandrel might be an easier way to enlarge the hole. It might be close, but if you could mount the 2-1/4" hole saw over the 1-3/4" one, you should be able to engage the existing hole with the smaller hole saw and use that to guide the bigger saw to enlarge the hole. I would recommend also to seal the edge of the fiberglass with epoxy resin before installing the new transducer.
 
If you are going to be using for fishing IMHO - you do not want to go with a shoot-thru. You will want to water temp feature and you don't get that with a shoot-thru.

I went with a transum mount for my Garmin system. Nice to have two depth systems on board.

While the water temp is a nice feature, his smartcraft should already have that function. As for using the temp for fishing, I believe you're looking for thermoclines but the temp reading from the transducer would be surface temp. Thermoclines show up on many sounders, regardless of transducer mounting
 
Fitting two hole saws on one mandrel might be an easier way to enlarge the hole. It might be close, but if you could mount the 2-1/4" hole saw over the 1-3/4" one, you should be able to engage the existing hole with the smaller hole saw and use that to guide the bigger saw to enlarge the hole. I would recommend also to seal the edge of the fiberglass with epoxy resin before installing the new transducer.

I like the way you think! That one is going in my "file" for future reference. Hopefully I'll be able to find it when I need it - my "file" has been getting a lot of cobwebs, lately! :lol:
 

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