Stopping my Boat on land.

[Cj2law]

I have been contemplating rebuilding the brakes on my trailer. It is a tandem axle haul-rite with dual disk brakes. It started making a clunking sound and gives a little jerk when starting from a dead stop almost as if the actuator is sticking. My question is has anyone done this before, where did you start your process of elimination, and was it easier or harder than you expected? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, by the way, It is a Titan model T4750520 actuator.

 

[brewster16]

Maybe I'm misinterpreting, but clunk and that jerking after a full stop....isn't that the actuator releasing the brakes after you had previously come to a stop which had engaged the brakes?

 

[JimG]

Yep, my surge brakes have always clunked when pulling out after a stop... that's the release sound.

 

[TNT8808]

I agree with you guys, but perhaps if he's noticed a change maybe he's low on brake fluid in the actuator?

 

[Quint4]

I converted to electric brakes and loved them. It is nice to have brakes when backing down the ramp and they worked much better on flat ground than surge.

 

[yobub]

The actuator may clunk when you pull away from a stop, but the brakes shouldn't jerk - they should just release.

As mentioned above, I would start with the hydraulic fluid and work from there. You could be low on fluid so the brakes aren't releasing when the actuator resets. You could also have debris (rust) in the fluid that is preventing the movement. You could bleed the system and then go from there.

One thing I found to be helpful when troubleshooting trailer brakes - I pull the hitch tongue with the ball attached out of my receiver and put it in the trailer coupler. It makes it much easier to flex the actuator when testing.

 

[Lazy Daze]

This is only when starting off - not when braking, correct?

It's normal to have a clunk when starting off, but it should be a minor clunk. You can minimize by starting out the first few feet very slowly (even just idle). I make a habit to stop a few feet early then let off the brake for the last few feet.

However, if this is a new clunk - louder/harsher than before - then that is not correct. Certainly start with your fluid, but there's a good chance the shock absorber is worn out - possibly the springs.

 

[Cj2law]

Yes this is a new problem. It always made some noise and you could feel the release of the brakes but now it sounds as though someone is hitting my hitch with a sledge hammer and when stopping you feel the weight of the boat pushing you and when taking off it feels like you are breaking the tires free. Just got this boat last year and only took it to Mark Twain Lake once but this summer was planning on traveling to the Lake of the Ozarks and and Bull Shoals from St. Louis. I may be being paranoid it just feels different than it did last year.

 

[Lazy Daze]

So then it IS happening when you brake, as well? That's a different scenario. Probably a shot MC and all the fluid has leaked out. If you're not comfortable with this, in addition to a boat shop, most local auto garages can help you. What you are describing is definitely not right... and very dangerous. Fix ASAP.

 

[Cj2law]

So then it IS happening when you brake, as well? That's a different scenario. Probably a shot MC and all the fluid has leaked out. If you're not comfortable with this, in addition to a boat shop, most local auto garages can help you. What you are describing is definitely not right... and very dangerous. Fix ASAP.

Thank you for your response. Yes it is happening when stopping and taking off. I am usually pretty capable of doing most of my own mechanical work but sometime I need to be started in the fright direction. I guess my next question should be if I'm going to replace the Master Cylinder should I go ahead and replace the thing that looks like a little shock absorber also.

 

[atrick]

Is the pin that goes thru the hitch and receiver worn or the holes themself worn and not tight with the pin. Had mine wear and when you touched the brakes there would be a clunk and the when you started there was another clunk. Sometimes there would not be a clunk when braking if you coasted a little while before breaking but always when starting out.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I guess my next question should be if I'm going to replace the Master Cylinder should I go ahead and replace the thing that looks like a little shock absorber also.

Might as well. Check your parts diagram or look closer at the unit... you may have two shocks on that model.

If you end up paying someone - price out a brand new, drop-in unit as opposed the parts and labor it would cost to rebuild it. Often it's cheaper to just pop a new one on there than pay them the labor to change things out piece by piece.

 

[Cj2law]

Is the pin that goes thru the hitch and receiver worn or the holes themself worn and not tight with the pin. Had mine wear and when you touched the brakes there would be a clunk and the when you started there was another clunk. Sometimes there would not be a clunk when braking if you coasted a little while before breaking but always when starting out.

The pins look like they are pretty tight still. The previous owner of the boat and trailer hardly used the trailer. The boat was stored in a dry rack and the trailer was sitting in the weeds. We store the boat on the trailer at the marina so we only move it from one side of the marina to the other. So I am thinking that the failures are moving parts that have seized up over the winter do to consistent use after 16 years of sitting

 

[RollerCoastr]

I went through trailer brake hell a few years ago. The drum assemblies were suffering from years of saltwater anyway, then the trailer was stolen. When recovered, it had an $8 Harbor Freight hitch where the actuator had been!

My brakes have a smooth engagement. I can feel it, and even modulate the truck's brake to control it. At release, my actuator produces a definite CLUNK. My method has always been to stop somewhat short of a red light, so I have room to pull ahead enough to release the brakes right away.

How's the tongue weight? If the boat is too far forward on the trailer, excess pressure on the actuator can have a significant impact on operation.

Eastern Marine was an awesome resource for me. They have a helpline with knowledgable and friendly staff whether your parts came from them or not.

 

[CliffA]

a little off topic but related...when i use to trailer boats i used this type of hitch...it has a polyurethane insert where the pin goes through...this works to dampen the shock from the surge brakes...worked pretty well.....

https://www.etrailer.com/search/Shock+Absorbing+Hitch#/

 

[Cj2law]

Might as well. Check your parts diagram or look closer at the unit... you may have two shocks on that model.

If you end up paying someone - price out a brand new, drop-in unit as opposed the parts and labor it would cost to rebuild it. Often it's cheaper to just pop a new one on there than pay them the labor to change things out piece by piece.

You where correct once I started removing parts to get the parts number so I could order replacements there are definitely 2 shocks on it and both of them look to be broke. I will post a picture of them when I get them removed completely.

 

[Cj2law]

I went through trailer brake hell a few years ago. The drum assemblies were suffering from years of saltwater anyway, then the trailer was stolen. When recovered, it had an $8 Harbor Freight hitch where the actuator had been!

My brakes have a smooth engagement. I can feel it, and even modulate the truck's brake to control it. At release, my actuator produces a definite CLUNK. My method has always been to stop somewhat short of a red light, so I have room to pull ahead enough to release the brakes right away.

How's the tongue weight? If the boat is too far forward on the trailer, excess pressure on the actuator can have a significant impact on operation.

Eastern Marine was an awesome resource for me. They have a helpline with knowledgable and friendly staff whether your parts came from them or not.

I haven't ever had the tongue weighed, when I purchased the boat and trailer from a reputable dealer they told me that the trailer was custom made for that boat and just took their word for it.