Stove top safety switch 2003 300DA

When I bought boat last year, the electric stove no work. Then I remembered the plunger, it’s a safety switch in case the glass top falls, WD40, little pry up with screwdriver solved problem. Works great now.
 
Sounds good -- I'll try to get it working again before looking at a replacement or bypass. Looks like it's frozen solid.
 
So I sprayed the plunger switch with CRC Electronic cleaner. I was able to get it to move a little but not much. Then I sprayed some more and let it sit for 10 mins. When I came back, the switch was laying on the stove :eek: It had completely blown up. Looks like Ill be pulling the fridge and doing a bypass.
 
Hmm. Not sure what you mean “laying on the stove” . I would take a pic of mine but cant get to cabin cause the hatches are all off and engine parts all over cockpit.
Its a flat round metal about the size of a dime.
 
Pirate Lady said:
Hmm. Not sure what you mean “laying on the stove” . I would take a pic of mine but cant get to cabin cause the hatches are all off and engine parts all over cockpit.
Its a flat round metal about the size of a dime.
Click to expand...

The whole switch disintegrated .... like the contacts/button/insides etc. Just broke into pieces. It's toast!
 
cookwithkenyon.com page 13, parts diagram G is safety switch like mine. Its an up and down metal plunger.
Sorry i still cant figure out how to cut paste a url on this iphone.
 
HD stocks the exact cooktop which is hilarious. But the button is separate

upload_2021-6-17_17-16-32.png
 
Oh, yours is way different than mine. I have the lift the glass lid kind.
And mine is alcohol electric.
Which its a shame they got away from alcohol, i can make a feast anchored out on a 2 burner alcohol stove.
Newer boats need a gen or eating cold sandwiches.
 
I can't imagine how spraying the CRC could have caused the damge - it was probably just dumb timing. Try calling Kenyon - if no luck, you can still get this part through your Sea Ray dealer - it's the same thing used on many models.
 
Lazy Daze said:
I can't imagine how spraying the CRC could have caused the damge - it was probably just dumb timing. Try calling Kenyon - if no luck, you can still get this part through your Sea Ray dealer - it's the same thing used on many models.
Click to expand...

I don't know either. It was frozen solid, no intention of moving. I sprayed it good. It just gave up. No more please !!!! :eek:

I think I need to pull the fridge to get access to the bottom of the stove. Which is okay.
 
Phil, dont bypass the switch if you can help it. Down the road when time to sell, buyers like stuff working as original and a surveyor may point out that a safety feature don’t work.
 
Pirate Lady said:
Phil, dont bypass the switch if you can help it. Down the road when time to sell, buyers like stuff working as original and a surveyor may point out that a safety feature don’t work.
Click to expand...

Good point. When I bought this boat last year the surveyor noted "stove not operational" and I figured the stove was just all done. I think all he did was put on the breaker and try the burners. Then when I realized it could be this switch, I thought .... great! But now it turns out the switch is harder to find than a new stove.
 
It's kinda frustrating when you go to the parts manual,
get a part #,
search for it,
and the only results you get are links back to the parts manual

:mad:
 
That's because Sea Ray part number are primarily used in-house and with dealers only. There's not much transfer to the regular world. But, as I mentioned, you can get them through your dealer. Although your picture, above, looks correct? Were you able to order it?
 
Kenyon is pretty useless where the alcohol/electric stoves are concerned. I tried for a month to get a seal kit for the alcohol side so I could rebuild the thing and they were no help at all. Just said that they couldn't sell parts and don't know about a rebuild service. So I gave up on it. But the electric side is perfect.
 
The switch link was a dead end. I pulled the fridge and found the switch wiring but I didn't bypass yet.
 
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