Stuck drain plug

[Coz]

I have 2 drain plugs in my bilge. The top one has probably never been out in 12 years. I would like to remove it for a plug light but it’s froze. It’s a standard bronze garboard plug.

I’m sure if I got my breaker bar I could get it to turn but I’m a bit nervous.
Is there any chance the female part could break loose?

 

[b_arrington]

Sure, it’s possible.

Before to go torquing the heck out the plug, apply some penetrating oil. PB Blastrr is very good. Spray on and let sit. Repeat. And repeat. My outboard repair teacher called it Jesus Piss for its ability to work miracles on froze parts.

Also, impact can work a part free more than just straight torque. The impact can break free the corrosion. Try a wrench and tap it with a hammer. A judicious application if heat can also be useful.

 

[Chip S]

PB Blaster is a miracle worker. Just be patient. It takes time to do its thing.

 

[Express 390]

I have 2 drain plugs in my bilge. The top one has probably never been out in 12 years. I would like to remove it for a plug light but it’s froze. It’s a standard bronze garboard plug.

I’m sure if I got my breaker bar I could get it to turn but I’m a bit nervous.
Is there any chance the female part could break loose?

Do your self a favor and don't install the plug light I tried one it was useless and burnt out in a short time.

 

[stephens013]

I have 2 drain plugs in my bilge. The top one has probably never been out in 12 years. I would like to remove it for a plug light but it’s froze. It’s a standard bronze garboard plug.

I’m sure if I got my breaker bar I could get it to turn but I’m a bit nervous.
Is there any chance the female part could break loose?

Penitrationg oil, let sit, then apply heat. Obviously not so to effect the female bonding surfaces, just enough to make the two metal surfaces give a little. Use a heat gun or maybe a hair dryer

 

[atrick]

Go get a 8 point socket before you try and round off the end!

 

[Bt Doctur]

After 12 years , forget it. Replace it

 

[DWABoat]

I bought my 280 this summer. The PO has “temporarily” put a galvanized plug in the top hole. Of course, it had been in there for a year. I tried every lubricant on the market for weeks to get it out.

Instead of risking damage to my transom fiberglass (fractures), I just removed the entire garboard plug receiver. It needed a good resealing anyway. It was much easier than fighting the corroded plug. In fact, I removed both and cleaned, sealed, and reinserted.
Note - one of the screws, likely the top one, is probably a skinny through bolt with a nut and wire on the inside of the transom for the bonding wire. This will fall off when you remove the garboard receiver. I keep my boat on a trailer, so it doesn’t really matter in my case.

 

[mesquito_creek]

penetrating oil and heat... If that doesn't work real easy then I have drilled a hole in the center of the plug, which is really easy on a brass plug. Then repeat oil and heat...

 

[Skuza]

Just pull it. At this point the amount of torque it’s gonna take to break free it may also break the base free. Play it safe and just replace the whole setup or take it out then remove the stick plug. Don’t wanna risk your transom. A little thing like this can turn into a nightmare-wet transom.

 

[GCHOG]

Try using "Kroil" , its a awesome penetrating oil. Ive been using it for years in my shop. I also use PB Blaster, its good stuff, but Kroil is much better at the really tough ones. Apply, wait, repeat. Be very careful applying heat.

 

[Leardriver]

Like DWABoat says, remove the entire garboard assembly. They are dirt cheap, and you have no drama or broken parts.