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Hmmm, I did not know this. Well, if my DIY stuff does not get it I must just do that.Give your insurance company a call. Things like this are covered. A friend ran into a sandbar on the ICW and packed both motors full of sand. Insurance covered a full removal and cleaning of the raw water cooling system.
This is my boat as we were working on it this weekend. The white tank that sits on top of the heat exchanger, with the radiator cap, what is that called? I assume it has to be removed to get access to both end caps on the heat exchanger so I can manually clean them? If yes any tips and tricks, do's and don'ts when removing it?
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Absolutely agreed, which is exactly what I'm doing. The mechanic I am using to bring the boat up to date on service is scheduled for the week after next. He was supposed to do it earlier but had to move the dates out. I am now doing as much as I can, really my girlfriend's brother-in-law caterpillar mechanic is with me watching, to learn and save money before he comes. I have been communicating my updates to him.You have stated that you have no service history.
If you are going to keep this boat for awhile, suggest you establish a BASELINE.
Thats what I did on the advice of Tom Mott and Dr Webster and my own need/desire/demand for a safe, reliable, mechanically sound boat.
Yeah, my carpets do look like ship, but the engines, hatches and portlights are totally, 100% shipshape, and my bilge is so clean you could eat pizzas off the floors !
Costs are negligible if you spread the initial cost over the service life
Now its just the regular maintenance stuff
BEST !
RWS
Thanks, I've always assumed the plastic one with the black cap is called the expansion tank, I didn't know what the white metal one is called.Coolant expansion/reservoir tank ? Anyway, I just removed the inside cap (w/3 zincs) on the port engine with easy access.
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Absolutely agreed, which is exactly what I'm doing. The mechanic I am using to bring the boat up to date on service is scheduled for the week after next. He was supposed to do it earlier but had to move the dates out. I am now doing as much as I can, really my girlfriend's brother-in-law caterpillar mechanic is with me watching, to learn and save money before he comes. I have been communicating my updates to him.
All of this was supposed to be done before I brought the boat home but I got ghosted by two different diesel mechanics.
Thanks, I've always assumed the plastic one with the black cap is called the expansion tank, I didn't know what the white metal one is called.
Cut the seacock off, remove the hose. Place a water hose in the top of the seacock and pack it off with some good rags. Turn the water on first, then slowly open the seacock. I used dish soap in the seacock to let me know when the intake was cleared. Then reverse the job. Two very important notes,
Do Not leave the seacock or get distracted! You will get water but it won’t be a flood. Just be ready to cut the flow.
Don’t forget to cut the seacock back on once everything is back together. You don’t want to trash a brand new impeller.
Another test would be to remove the strainer cap and cut the seacock on. The strainer should fill very fast. If it doesn’t the problem would be between prior to the strainer. I say this because you had said the strainer was full of mud. Check the hose as well, it to could be clogged up.
Good luck with this and please let us know what you find.
I’d let you borrow my Jobu, but you’re too far.Thank you. I am planning to bring my rabbit's foot, check all hoses starting at the seacock, for blockage, then pull the cap(s) off the heat exchanger, than check/replace the raw water impellers. I will then throw some salt over my shoulder.