Teak Wood Redo

[chrissrv195]

Was wondering if anybody has used anything other than teak oil on their boats. I was thinking about using clear polyuerthane to make it shiny for good, but a guy told me that teak is naturally oily and the polyurethane might not stick and start to peel off, he sugested boiled linseed oil. Any advice?

 

[katricol]

I don't think poly will work...

 

[kybishop]

Lots of discussion on this one.

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18365&highlight=classics+teak

My brother and I prefer to keep it oiled. Looks the best and most natural of any of them and not hard to maintain. We are in the minority though. The sikkens and others all tend to look to shiny or orange or too much like a typical piece of home furniture to me. Part of the beauty of the classics is the teak and nothing makes the teak look as good as teak oil.

 

[JVM225]

The teak on my boat was finished with poly urethane when I got it. The finish was already starting to crack and peel when I got it and I let it weather a bit more.
After sanding off the last remaining parts of the poly urethane last spring I cleaned it with the Te-Ka two part cleaning kit, and finished it with Sikkens "Natural Teak". It all came out like new. The Sikkens gives it a nice sort of natural look that looks finished without being too shiney.
The Te-Ka and Sikkens were very easy to use. The only thing I can caution you about is to keep the surrounding area wet when using the cleaning kit and have an assistant standing by with a garden hose to quickly rinse away what drips out of the teak from the Te-Ka. Other than that, just follow the directions and you will be very happy with the results.
The finish held up well all season and still looks good. I plan to just rough up the surface a bit with some 120 sandpaper this coming spring, and follow up with another coat of the Sikkens.
I use those disposable foam brushes for the Sikkens so the clean-up is super easy.

 

[chrissrv195]

Thanks for the info JVM225, your info will have saved me a ton of time and grumbling undoing what would have been a mistake. Are the products you used readily available at boat retailers, or online?

 

[ghuskin]

Chris,

first year - did teak cleaner/restore/oil. looked good for a week. what a pain.

third year - finished with Sikkens in spring. still looks good. even the teak on the swim platform.

Currently refinishing the interior teak/wood this winter.

 

[JVM225]

Thanks for the info JVM225, your info will have saved me a ton of time and grumbling undoing what would have been a mistake. Are the products you used readily available at boat retailers, or online?

Yes, I bought them locally at the boatyard where I used to keep my boat. I think you can also get them from West Marine. Just check their website. I've never looked for these products on Amazon, but I'll bet they have them too.
Again though: I can't stress enough about wetting the surrounding area and having an assistant standing by with a hose to rinse off the stuff that comes out of the teak when you use the two part Te-Ka cleaner.
It would be even better if you could remove the teak from the boat to do it, but not essential if removal is too difficult or time consuming.
The actual cleaning and finishing of the teak is a really easy process.
The Sikkens is actually a kind of Poly, but not nearly as shiney as the regular stuff. It's a lot more natural, and I think it lets the wood breathe just a little better. I like it because it's easy to use, puts on a nice finish, and really brings out the grain in the wood.

 

[fxsales]

As usual, I'm the minority.... I used oil one year. The sanded it smooth and used Minwax Helmsman Spar Polyurethane, high gloss. My gunwhale teak is about 4" wide, and it looks great. After 13 months in the Florida sun it still has a deep gloss. I used about 6 coats with a cheapo sponge brush, as it smoothes out better. I like it so much that I have pulled all the teak trim in the cockpit and replaced it, sanded the steps to the flybridge, and the instrument cover on the flybridge. They will all be done with the spar by Christmas. I think the key is to make sure that you cover all of the teak, including the bottom. If it is completely sealed there is less chance of peeling. I will use a fine grit sandpaper when I do the trim and re-do the gunwhale. Besides taping it off, it is not time consuming, and if it lasts in the Florida sun, I likeit, and it has a deep rich look to the wood. I will post when I have finished the project...
FWIW
Trying to stay cool in Florida...
j

 

[KRB64]

...sugested boiled linseed oil. Any advice?

I use linseed on the handles of all my hand tools. Works excellent for that but not sure I'd put it on teak or a boat. It has the ability to spontaneously combust under the right conditions - like the application rag wadded up and stuck in a corner somewhere.

Oiling teak on a boat is good therapy for me. Glass of bourbon, good cigar, beached on the lake...

 

[just me]

I like lemon oil

 

[dtile]

Dont use or test first home depots brand, it took my teak way to dark....big mistake, i was looking to "save" a few bucks and not head to Westmarine...and ruined my "look" I like the lighter look but after it dried....bla....ya, i should of tested...

good article...
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/29.htm