Temporary Bilge Heater for Cold Snap

thompsdw

New Member
Apr 15, 2007
196
Richmond, VA
Boat Info
2000 Sundancer 270
Engines
7.4 MPI Mercruser
This didn't fit in the other thread and I didn't find anything after doing a search. This polar plunge is coming in a little earlier than my winterization appointment. Our forecast is 27 F now, but it seems to get colder by the minute. Is there any safe temporary (light over 1 night) way to put just a little heat in the engine compartment? I was wondering about my West Marine cabin air drying with fan. Doesn't seem like that would pose an ignition risk, because it's not an open flame and temperatures don't seem to get too high. I don't like the light bulb idea ..............

Any other safe ways?
 
This didn't fit in the other thread and I didn't find anything after doing a search. This polar plunge is coming in a little earlier than my winterization appointment. Our forecast is 27 F now, but it seems to get colder by the minute. Is there any safe temporary (light over 1 night) way to put just a little heat in the engine compartment? I was wondering about my West Marine cabin air drying with fan. Doesn't seem like that would pose an ignition risk, because it's not an open flame and temperatures don't seem to get too high. I don't like the light bulb idea ..............

Any other safe ways?

Are you in the water still - in Houston?

There are lots of threads on the site about this and what it boils down to is this .... either do it the proper way with a rated bilge heater ... or it is all about the risk you are willing to take (and what your insurance covers).

If you decide to take risk - even if your heat source of choice has no ignition hazard in its design (like an oil heater), it can always fail - and it still has a thermostat that switches and they will spark unless it is part of an intrinsically safe circuit or in an explosion proof enclosure.

If it were me and it was in the water - I would either simply run the engines until the ER is warm enough and then block the vents to maintain some of the heat for the evening. Or better still - buy a bilge heater from your local marine store if they have any left.

Any other approach has the risk of an ignition source with a potential gasoline vapor source (I am assuming there is still gasoline in the ER).
 
I agree with the above comment, buy an ER heater and you're safe. I just did this last weekend to get ready for this too. It's was easy!

Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Profile is not up to date, I am in Virginia. The boat is on the rack, so the water doesn't help in my case. I'm not even sure where to get a ER in a day or two here, that's why I was searching for a one night alternative. Friday night here is 25 with daytime highs in the 40s.
 
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Profile is not up to date, I am in Virginia. The boat is on the rack, so the water doesn't help in my case. I'm not even sure where to get a ER in a day or two here, that's why I was searching for a one night alternative. Friday night here is 25 with daytime highs in the 40s.

OK got it, I am not an expert but as a minimum if you have not done so already make sure you drain all potable water from the boat and if possible blow out the pot water lines with air.

Then - there are many marine equipment suppliers in Virginia - so I suggest you google them and find someone within driving distance that has an ER rated heater. A temporary install with the lead plugged into the outlet above decks will suffice for now.

Though not in a boating environment - I spent most of my professional life dealing with the issues of ignition sources in hydrocarbon risk environments - and I personally would never take the gamble of an unprotected ignition source in the ER, I would risk freeze damage before that.

Whatever you decide best of luck.

dave
 
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if it is accessible to get on for a short time you should be able to do a halfway decent winterization in about 30-40 minutes. good enough for one night anyway. i had to last year and it only wasted about $20 in pink. weather warmed up and i was able to do the job right
 
If you can access the bilge, I would open all the drain plugs I could find and leave them open, the block drains, manifold drains, and any drain plugs on the coolers if you can get to them. At least this way if there is any water left in the system,if it gets cold enough to freeze
it will have room to expand.
 

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