The official pre-clinton era sr sport cruiser thread

giff1 said:
Wile E: Concerning your sliding doors,check with chuckmoe post on 8-10-2009 - sliding door '86 340 EC . On his post he says he has a sheet from Sea Ray on how to remove the sliding doors. I asked for a copy of the sheet but have not received it.
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I PM'd him, Thats good to know that the info is out there. I had lost hope that there was such a document listing the procedure. Has he ever replied back to you at all?
I've been looking for something since last Nov and have yet to get anything. My Acrylic and frame are in OK shape, but the rollers are in pieces. I carry a few around with me in hopes I may get the door off and will need them to try and figure out something to replace them.
 
Wile E, I have not heard anythiing from from chuckmoe but hope he will remember and email the Sea Ray sheet to me. I hope to change out the door this winter if the $ is right. I do know you must pop out the teak screw plugs from the teak door frame. Then unscrew and remove the wood frame and metal tracks.
 
Chris,

More great pics...again thanks for sharing. The forged steel heads are new to me. Who makes them?

Also...I guess over time things change. Back in the day all marine small block Chevys had 4: bolt main bearing caps....so did the trucks and the Hi-Performance models. I guess the builder feels good enough about the 2: bolt set up to go with it or he would have drilled and tapped for the 4: bolt set up.:thumbsup:

When do you think they will run it in?
 
sprink56 said:
Chris,

all marine small block Chevys had 4: bolt main bearing caps....so did the trucks and the Hi-Performance models. I guess the builder feels good enough about the 2: bolt set up to go with it or he would have drilled and tapped for the 4: bolt set up.:thumbsup:

When do you think they will run it in?
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing. I'm surprised to see a 2 bolt main block. I have also never heard of forged steel cylinder heads?

That thing ought to run great when it's done. The 383 is a great motor.
 
Two things here, the block is the origional 1992 Mercrusier, had the Mercrusier plate above the starter motor. And I did ask about the 2 bolt mains when we first striped her down. I was supprised as well to see the 2 bolt mains.

Anyway, I did ask about that and was assured that it would be OK as they have had motors doing 500hp + with 2 bolt mains and as my motor will get max torque at 3500rpm rather than up in the 4800 - 5200 rpm (212 degree cam) all should be OK. I expect to be doing most of the running between 3000 - 4000 rpm range. I guess that if it was a street or track motor I'd be insisting on 4 bolt mains.
I did get a whole lot of technicial info., where as, when the rpm's rise the centrifugal forces start to out weigh the effects of the torque. So, that part of the conversation went over my head. I'll leave all that stuff to the experts.

All up, it is looking pretty good, may have her running on the dyno at the end of the week.

BTW, I thought they said "forged" steel, but maybe I got that wrong, but they are definately not cast iron, where I am here, in Hervey Bay, right next to the beach and tropical 80% humidity, machined surfaces rust up over night.
.
 
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giff1 said:
Wile E, I have not heard anythiing from from chuckmoe but hope he will remember and email the Sea Ray sheet to me. I hope to change out the door this winter if the $ is right. I do know you must pop out the teak screw plugs from the teak door frame. Then unscrew and remove the wood frame and metal tracks.
Click to expand...
I have removed the teak trim at the top as well as all the screws in the metal track. If you remove the dash, you can see that the screws continue, as does the metal trim, under the dash. I was told originally that the helm needed to be removed. Also, if you remove the door under the helm you can see that the door is still at least 8" behind the helm. There is no way I can see it sliding out without pulling it straight up. I think it needs to be pulled back at the very least. Unless there is some other trick. Thats why I would like to look at this "procedure".
 
It seems that this thread is a bit more friendlier than the 260 thread, maybe it is because I just got into a 1990 260 da (an upgrade I must say from a 19' bowrider)! Its definitely been a pleasure to cruise around on the river and bay. I have a couple of things that someone may have sugestions for. The seats under the console that slide out do not look sturdy at all and it looks like the tracks that they should have been in are gone... is there somewhere that may have the correct parts to put the seats back together? Also I got the boat with out a VHF radio but it had the antenna, I just can not find the connector!! How hard should that have been right... I have pulled out the console, gone down into berth and have yet found it!! I have read many of the threads here and I can tell that with the same labor that you all have put into your SR I should have something to show off after this winter also!!!
 
Chris Dauth said:
Two things here, the block is the origional 1992 Mercrusier, had the Mercrusier plate above the starter motor. And I did ask about the 2 bolt mains when we first striped her down. I was supprised as well to see the 2 bolt mains.

Anyway, I did ask about that and was assured that it would be OK as they have had motors doing 500hp + with 2 bolt mains and as my motor will get max torque at 3500rpm rather than up in the 4800 - 5200 rpm (212 degree cam) all should be OK. I expect to be doing most of the running between 3000 - 4000 rpm range. I guess that if it was a street or track motor I'd be insisting on 4 bolt mains.
I did get a whole lot of technicial info., where as, when the rpm's rise the centrifugal forces start to out weigh the effects of the torque. So, that part of the conversation went over my head. I'll leave all that stuff to the experts.

All up, it is looking pretty good, may have her running on the dyno at the end of the week.

BTW, I thought they said "forged" steel, but maybe I got that wrong, but they are definately not cast iron, where I am here, in Hervey Bay, right next to the beach and tropical 80% humidity, machined surfaces rust up over night.
.
Click to expand...

The heads are probably aluminum...would be a smart choice. The Edelbrocks are popular here as are the World Products.

Chris...ask them about a 3: angle valve job...the valves and seats are cut at 3:angles and it really cleans the flow up nicely. I can't wait to see the dyno sheets:thumbsup: Also...take a pic of your Weber...I've not seen that carb before.

This is fun for us too.:thumbsup:
 
G-Day John, I was at the builders again today, just down the road, and they had just finished weighing all the pistons and rods.
One head is in a cutting machine to lower the valve spring seats, to allow for the higher lift cam, the other head is finished.
Yes, the valve seats are cut to 3 angles, they pointed that out when the new heads arrived from Melbourne.
The heads were made in Australia, the hot roders use them on the Holden engines, which are SBC.
The carby is a Weber but is exactly the same as the Edelbrock 1409 or the Carter AFB 9000 series. Don't know who copied who, but apparently, as it was giving good combustion, going on the colour of the spark plugs, we'll use it again, for the moment.

The thing I did today was to leave the camera at home, but I'll wander down tomorow and take some more pics.
 
Has anyone installed an inverter, I'm looking to up grade the existing 1990 charger with a charger inverter and I'm looking for a location to install the unit.
 
Ruffbeinme said:
It seems that this thread is a bit more friendlier than the 260 thread, maybe it is because I just got into a 1990 260 da (an upgrade I must say from a 19' bowrider)! Its definitely been a pleasure to cruise around on the river and bay. I have a couple of things that someone may have sugestions for. The seats under the console that slide out do not look sturdy at all and it looks like the tracks that they should have been in are gone... is there somewhere that may have the correct parts to put the seats back together? Also I got the boat with out a VHF radio but it had the antenna, I just can not find the connector!! How hard should that have been right... I have pulled out the console, gone down into berth and have yet found it!! I have read many of the threads here and I can tell that with the same labor that you all have put into your SR I should have something to show off after this winter also!!!
Click to expand...

Go back to the 260 thread, we don't want you here either!!
:lol:
Do you have pictures of your boat? I would like to see what it looks like. Sorry, but I'm not familiar with that size.
One good thing to do is update your signature with your boat information, so people know what your working with.
 
I have a question about bottom paint; My boat spends most of its time on the trailer, an easy load with about 48 rollers. What is the best bottom paint ? Fresh water 90% of the time. The boat is in east texas,. Thanks, Pat W. PS The last time I had anything to do with bottom paint we were still putting red lead on....
 
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popeye said:
I have a question about bottom paint; My boat spends most of its time on the trailer, an easy load with about 48 rollers. What is the best bottom paint ? Fresh water 90% of the time. The boat is in east texas,. Thanks, Pat W. PS The last time I had anything to do with bottom paint we were still putting red lead on....
Click to expand...

Why do you need it if you can get it on the trailer to clean it up? I'm not sure of the growth in your area, so I would ask someone at the marina who has similar uses as you. If there's not much growth, I would rather pull the boat on the trailer every month or so and clean it up.
 
So are you saying there is no issue of protection to the hull from the bottom paint? The boat will in the water 2-3 days at a time, mostly weekends. then back on the trailer and back home in my barn. If the paint is cosmetic, I won't worry about it.
 
popeye said:
So are you saying there is no issue of protection to the hull from the bottom paint? The boat will in the water 2-3 days at a time, mostly weekends. then back on the trailer and back home in my barn. If the paint is cosmetic, I won't worry about it.
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The conditions you describe do not indicate that bottompaint is needed. Unless you want it for cosmetic purposes.
 
wileecoyote said:
Go back to the 260 thread, we don't want you here either!!
:lol:
Do you have pictures of your boat? I would like to see what it looks like. Sorry, but I'm not familiar with that size.
One good thing to do is update your signature with your boat information, so people know what your working with.
Click to expand...


Gee thanks Wylie! I actually don't think we are too far apart if you are in Welcome, MD. I am thinking about putting in at Benedict, MD, right now I am rolling it on and off the trailer which may keep me off the boat more than if it were in a slip. The wife is of some help but with the 7 year old well if it were a day trip for the two of us could be exciting watching him back the truck down the ramp!!!! Anyway I actually have a 1990 250 Sundancer. As soon as I get a picture I will put it in with my profile along with the other info. I am really new to this website and forum but hope to be a ong and good standing memeber here.:thumbsup:
 
Posted some more pictures today. She'll go on the dyno tomorrow afternoon, Wednesday.

DSCF6353.jpg

http://clubsearay.com/forum/album.php?albumid=214

The 2 new front engine mounts arrived from the USA today, so all I have to do is bolt on the Mercrusier stuff, raw water pump, exhaust manifolds, power steering and alternator etc., and the the whole lot goes back into the boat.

Here is a tip for those constantly leaking riser gaskets. Being a field engineer in the oil and gas industry all my life, I had found that all around the world (worked in 67 countries) they use Thermoseal / Klinger gasket material, always been regarded as the best you can get. I was going to cut my own gaskets from Klingerite, but found that Osco motors http://oscomotors.com/ have direct replacement gaskets pre cut ! These are made from Klingersil C-4401, miles better material than the OEM stuff. So, to do the job properly, I started a fresh and had the manifolds, risers and elbows milled back to good metal and then I'll install the Osco / Thermoseal gaskets. Good-Bye leaks !!

.
 
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"She'll go on the dyno tomorrow afternoon, Wednesday"

Drum Roll please.....:thumbsup:

BTW...that's a right serious looking intake manifold you have there Cap...who make that one?
 
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