The right tow vehicle

[Cincy Aquaholic]

I'm debating on getting a "new to me" tow vehicle to go along with either my trailer purchase or a trailer rental. I've got a friend that has a F350 dully King Ranch that will do the trick but prefer to not borrow a vehicle.

I'd like to just get it for towing occassionally and so it doesn't need to look pretty or be very new. Just reliable.

What models should I be looking at if I want to keep it under $10k that will have a 12000lb or more towing capacity? Preferably in the $7,500 range.

I don't want to do a 5th wheel trailer so do I need a dully or can I get by with a single? I assume diesel is the way to go but what about a V-10? Do I need F350 or will an F250 do it?

 

[chuck1]

IMHO - I would be looking for at least a 350 diesel. With the dry weight for your boat around the 9500lbs range you're going to be pushing 12K easily. My rule of thumb is to try and stay around 75% of towing capacity so you really need to be thinking about a towing capacity around 15K. Just my 2cent.
We've got a couple user towing boats like yours and I'm sure they will chime in with some good info for you.

 

[Cincy Aquaholic]

Thanks. Its absolutely dizzying trying to compare all of the model trucks over the years for their towing capacity. There are like 30 models of F350 in every model year!

This was one that I came across real quick. Probably could be had for high $7k. 200k miles on a diesel is nothing from what I've been told.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=262406140&dealer_id=100007404&car_year=2000&rdm=1245167410300&model=F350&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=Diesel&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=200&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&sownerid=2066148&showZipError=y&make=FORD&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=45202&advanced=y&only_photo=1&end_year=2010&doors=&transmission=&max_price=10000&cardist=218&standard=false

 

[ChuckW]

I have a K2500 Suburban for my setup. You won't haul that load with a suburban, but you can do it with a K2500 or F250 pickup. You don't "need" dualies. I won't even venture into the gas vs diesel debate, as long as the vehicle specs out for your needs is the key. Torque is great, but you can get it in gas, too. I'd be less concerned with the age and type of engine and more concerned with the state and age of the drive train. That's just me. :smt001

Keep in mind, if you haven't already, there is a lot more to spec'ng a tow vehicle than just saying I'd like a 3/4 or 1 ton vehicle. I'll list a bunch of stuff to verify as you ponder this.

1. Tow capacity - I agree with Chuck1 that you want some reserve tow capacity. I believe 75% is a bit liberal, I'd venture to push 90%. But just make sure you add up all factors, boat, fuel, water, gear, trailer, parts, tools, cargo, passengers, fluff capacity. Everything that goes into, on or behind the tow vehicle must be added up to get to your weight, except the driver. That's the only thing they grant you in a spec.
2. Drive train, make sure the axle ratio and transmission support the rated capacity. Especially on an older vehicle that might have had replacement work done to it. Transmission cooler, verify, don't assume. History of tranny fluid changes? Twice as often in a tow vehicle than a regular car.
3. Hitch - yes, verify... factory step bumpers don't cut it. Pintle hitches are best for heavier loads, but 2-1/4 ball hitches are rated pretty high as well I think 20k. For the most part trucks in your category are going to have a receiver, but you never know. If you get a truck on the smaller end of the scale, you may need to use weight distribution bars to acheive the rated tow capacity, this is usually hidden in the fine print of the manual or frame plackard. While they are great, for many reasons, they impose limitations on your brake setup. Surge can be done (I have it) but not without knowing what you need for that config.
4. Tires - make sure they have the load rating on them you need. Many HD trucks get dumbed down for that cool look. If the tires (and wheels/rims) aren't load rated for the weight, better plan on getting them. Nothing worse than a little too much wiggle in the ass-end of the truck with a heavy load, let alone failure.
5. Brakes, both on the truck and the trailer, of course. I'd prefer rear disc brakes on the tow vehicle, just in case you are at a lowsy ramp and have to plant the rear tires a bit deeper than planned. Drums are too much maintenance in water, let alone the axle.
6. Surge or electric over hydraulic. I won't debate the pros and cons of one over the other, many will, but suffice it to say make sure you know what you will be using and that you are wired or otherwise ready for it.

Have fun, always nice to buy more toys..:smt038
FYI - I put about 15k per year TOWING on this setup. Lots of road stories...

 

[Cincy Aquaholic]

Thanks!! All good tips to keep in mind. I think I'm going to go with the trailer purchase this year, borrow a friends F350 and see how that works out then, next year look at the right vehicle.

I suspect I should focus on 4x4, right? I think I will stick with a diesel. Would like to here pro's on the dually debate. Prefer not to have to go that route but will if necessary.

Does anyone have a link to a good chart for towing capacity comparisons between different models and years?

 

[beerman]

Here is the Trailer Life link, hope this helps.
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0oGkj3R4...ttp://www.trailerlife.com/output.cfm?id=42175
How far and often are you going to be towing? There has been lots of discussion on this in the past.

 

[tdappleman]

Here's a good resource for you - follow the foot notes on the models you are interested in to ensure you understand which axle or drivetrain was used to get the specific rating you are looking for.

http://www.trailerlife.com/output.cfm?id=42175

Good luck - I'm in the middle of finding a new tow vehicle as well. I'm currently towing with a 2007 Expedition and am hopefully finalizing a deal on an 03 Excursion V10. I'm avoiding diesel due to the increased cost at purchase along with the increased maintenance costs. The V10 has plenty of torque for my application and doesn't require 15 quarts of oil, reg fuel filter changes, etc. Just my 2 cents and don't want to start a diesel vs. gas thing - I just couldn't justify an additional 3-5k on a used truck to get the diesel - plus I didn't want the 6.0 Powerstroke which was used in 03-06.

 

[Lazy Daze]

When buying a tow vehicle, you need to buy based on "what if" circumstances. A 3/4 ton will work, but if you have to stop quick/veer hard, you've got an awful lot of weight pushing you around - especially on that 2 5/16" ball, which acts as a lever since it sits further behind the vehicle's center point than a bed mount. Better safe than sorry, get the 1-ton - it adds A LOT of security having those extra wheels and wider stance.

More than likely, you'll have to upgrade the current hitch to a stronger/higher rated one (if it hasn't already been done).

Diesel or gas? Once you go diesel, you don't go back! :grin:

I would also HIGHLY recommend the electric over hydraulic brake set-up for the trailer. It works noticeably better than surge brakes, and is usually only about a $600 - $800 option. IMO, well worth it.

 

[MExcelsior]

Hi Cincy Aquaholic,

290 with twin 5.0, gen, etc., etc.? 3/4 ton isn't even an option. That is one heavy boat. Depending on the trailer, that cruiser with trailer will be pushing 14-15k if not more. 1-ton should be fine, but you will definitely know/feel the boat behind you. : )

Diesel is better for this application if you are going to "travel" any distances, but Gas will do also. I would go with a 4x4 since you are probably going to get your back tires wet fairly often. You also don't necessarily need a dually.

Hope this helps.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[everthing's irie]

I tow our 290 with a 350 (diesel) single using a weight distribution hitch. A 250 will not do it. Better would be a 350 dual or a 450. Off the hitch with out a weight distribution a 350 single max is 12,000 pounds. You have to add the trailer weight, fuel, water, gear, and passengers in the truck.

I empty the water, holding tank, and have 1/4 tank of fuel. With all above included I was at 11,700lbs. Look for a 15Klbs trailer. There is a group in Panama City that quoted me $6,000 for a new trailer.

 

[Cincy Aquaholic]

Thanks all. I'm told a steel trailer is going weigh about 2200lbs. Aluminum will be slightly less but not much. Maybe 2k. So i think i will come in around 13k max with partial fuel and water so I think capacity up to 15k will be plenty.

Thoughts on the aluminun dual bunk style trailer? Steel guy tells me it will be bad for my hull but don't the majority of people use this style without issue? I plan to store the boat on the trailer so it will see significant time on it.

 

[ChuckW]

Thanks all. I'm told a steel trailer is going weigh about 2200lbs. Aluminum will be slightly less but not much. Maybe 2k. So i think i will come in around 13k max with partial fuel and water so I think capacity up to 15k will be plenty.

Thoughts on the aluminun dual bunk style trailer? Steel guy tells me it will be bad for my hull but don't the majority of people use this style without issue? I plan to store the boat on the trailer so it will see significant time on it.

Ask for the specs, I don't believe it. You'll want to compare galvanized steel to aluminum. Stainless parts, torsion axles, LED lights, etc.

The aluminum trailer will be significantly lighter. If it isn't something's wrong with the steel trailer. The dual bunks provide excellent support for the hull. Easy to float off and on (I never power load). Mine lives on it's trailer. I have a Road King RKAV 24-26TRB 11k gross, 9500 net. So my trailer is only 1500 lbs. Comparable steel for mine weighed in at 2800 lbs. Your's will be heavier, but so won't the steel.

Check out Road Kings Trailer specs at the bottom of http://www.roadkingtrailers.com/RKAV.htm Gives you a frame of reference if nothing more. They are great trailers.

Here' s a pic of mine loaded on the trailer. It lives on it when I'm not on the water. Never had a problem with the bunks and loading. It tracks straight, runs smooth and is just a great setup. I wouldn't have done it any other way.:thumbsup:

 

[Lazy Daze]

Steel guy tells me it will be bad for my hull

And the aluminum guy says the steel trailer is no good, right?:smt001

A steel trailer will be right at 3,000lbs, an aluminum will be 2,000lbs.

Don't sweat the aluminum - it'll be perfectly fine. I've never even heard someone saying steel is better for the hull:huh:

 

[ChuckW]

All that being said, not all aluminum trailers are equal. Neither are all steel. There are manufacturing techniques that you will want to familiarize yourself with.

When I researched mine, I found some aluminum trailers that didn't require an engineering degree to realize they were "cheaply" made and you'd get what you paid for.

 

[Woody]

I have a steel Eagle tri-axle 13,200# load capacity, 15,240# gross. It weighs a little over 2,000#. I recomment you get brakes on all axles , some states even require it. Compare carefully. One of my pet peeves are the trailers that have a few feet extra tongue because they fit a range of boat lengths. I also don’t like the trailers that are all u-bolted together so they can fit a variety of boats.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I have a steel Eagle tri-axle 13,200# load capacity, 15,240# gross. It weighs a little over 2,000#.

That's all that it weighs? I pulled that 3,000lb figure right off Load Rite's website (not that I recommend LR - I absolutely don't). But, I'm surprised at the difference.

Heck, even my ShoreLand'r dual axle weighs almost 2,000lbs. Not discounting what you're saying, just surprised at the difference. Both Eagle's and ShoreLand'r's are welded frames.

 

[Woody]

The stee Eagle tri-axle(8,300# load capacity) I had for my 270SD weighed 1,680#.

 

[berth control]

How often do you plan to tow the boat and how far? Approx. miles/year?

I don't agree with all the "oh my gosh, you will rip the hitch off a 3/4 ton and blow the engine and transmission on the first trip" opinions. (exageration, but not much!)

 

[Kameroo]

Cinci,

I can't help with the tow vehicle, but here's another option: Look at what you'd spend for a new F250/350, and go get yourself a nice cuddy or center console that you can tow to explore other areas. Best of both worlds.

 

[Woody]

Lazy Daze, Question: what does the SR dry weight mean/include? I was told it was the base boat. In other words on a boat that has twins vs the base single engine you should add for another engine and drive weight.