Tips for accessing V8 block drains, 240SD MPI

I have a metric and SAE o-ring kit. Are they actually O-rings or some other type of rubber gasket?

LMK if you’re successful tapping the fuel module. Would be so easy with a drain plug.

I didn’t have the seawater pump output hose off. When I originally backfilled with AF, I left pump plugs out until I saw AF pouring out plug holes then I plugged. Doesn’t that indicate the pump had antifreeze? I was only concerned with what might be trapped between the impeller vanes.

I feel I’ve taken more precautions than 95% of owners including those that go to either of the 3 local pro businesses that I know. I keep waiting for some to say “gotcha” and have a good laugh at what they’ve gotten the newbie to do. :)

I’d actually like to do a survey as to how many owners actually drain the block and fuel module (other than pulling the blue plugs) vs those that don’t. I think in the real world it’s probably 1 to 10. On boating forums with hard core boaters I’d guess 50/50 or maybe less because no one wants to admit not pulling the block drains and fuel cooler fittings. Maybe it’s different on boats with step-in bilges but on a 240SD I’d go with my guesses.

Thanks again
 
RaceCarRich said:
I have a metric and SAE o-ring kit. Are they actually O-rings or some other type of rubber gasket?

LMK if you’re successful tapping the fuel module. Would be so easy with a drain plug.

I didn’t have the seawater pump output hose off. When I originally backfilled with AF, I left pump plugs out until I saw AF pouring out plug holes then I plugged. Doesn’t that indicate the pump had antifreeze? I was only concerned with what might be trapped between the impeller vanes.

I feel I’ve taken more precautions than 95% of owners including those that go to either of the 3 local pro businesses that I know. I keep waiting for some to say “gotcha” and have a good laugh at what they’ve gotten the newbie to do. :)

I’d actually like to do a survey as to how many owners actually drain the block and fuel module (other than pulling the blue plugs) vs those that don’t. I think in the real world it’s probably 1 to 10. On boating forums with hard core boaters I’d guess 50/50 or maybe less because no one wants to admit not pulling the block drains and fuel cooler fittings. Maybe it’s different on boats with step-in bilges but on a 240SD I’d go with my guesses.

Thanks again
Click to expand...

If you got antifreeze to come out of the blue plug on the pump output you’re good to go. No need to pull that hose off.

The small amount of water that was dislodged when you bumped the motor will mix with that antifreeze and you’re all set.

It’s very difficult to remove that output hose without unbolting the pump and pulling it off of the hose. Save the bloody knuckles for when it’s time to change the pump or impeller.
 
I must have forgotten that you mentioned it earlier somewhere that your pump housing has plugs. Earlier versions did NOT have plugs. Yes, you are good to go with just removing the plugs - you do not have to slip the hose off. Also, disregard the comment about installing the T-drain in the line.
 
Cool. Thanks everyone.

So what’s the deal with the fuel module cooling hose O-rings? Are they generic or some unobtainium square cut type seal?
 
Just looked at Mcmaster-Carr - looks like they have a bunch to choose from. Seems more common than I was originally thinking. Could still try your local NAPA - or at least give them a call to see if you stopped in with one if they could match it. Otherwise, just measure it.
 
I’ve got several o-ring kits. Are these actual o-rings or something else?
 
From what I remember, they are square-cut o-rings. Unlike the engine and manifolds where the AF helps to keep corrosion at bay over the winter, you could pull them out to better check things out. The loss of AF from that part of the system won't matter.
 
Next year. The covers are not coming off and bulkhead not coming down before guy comes to shrinkwrap. Just learned he charges $125 to winterize engine. I’m sure he’s pulling everything <eyes rolled>. :)
 
No luck on the CF module, Rich. Looks like I scavenged it for the pumps and threw the housing away - must have been too corroded to save. I talked to another guy at the store and he seemed to think the same thing I was in that you could tap it. No guarantees, of course - but it's got a good shot of working. Drill a small, exploratory hole - see if by putting water into the cooling hose's input ports if it then drains out the new hole. Worst case, plug the hole back up. Look for a square-ish embossing on the front, stbd corner of the module. Drill there. Might be worth a call to Merc, as well - not sure if they'll be forthcoming with that info, though.
 
RaceCarRich said:
Next year. The covers are not coming off and bulkhead not coming down before guy comes to shrinkwrap. Just learned he charges $125 to winterize engine. I’m sure he’s pulling everything <eyes rolled>. :)
Click to expand...
That actually might be about right... if that is "$125 + parts" (oil/filters/etc). I do mobile winterizing (I go to their houses) and +/- that's about what the labor comes to.
 
Ah. Thanks for looking. I’m not going to worry about it until next winterization unless I’ve got to pull the module for another reason (hopefully not).

Good news is that I think I found the part # to order the cool fuel cooling line O-Rings (25-865363). I think it is the fuel line that requires you to buy the entire assembly.
 
Lazy Daze said:
That actually might be about right... if that is "$125 + parts" (oil/filters/etc). I do mobile winterizing (I go to their houses) and +/- that's about what the labor comes to.
Click to expand...

Wow. My marina gets $300 + parts for winterize. Oil change is an extra $300/engine. They even charge $50 per battery to remove them. I would have easily given the $125 just to have someone pull and reinstall the block drain hoses. The amount of time and effort required to get the Jiff push lock hose off and on the nipples without good access was crazy. If it was regular hose and clamp It wouldn’t have been bad. Next year I’ll figure a quick disconnect set-up.
 
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Good find - it "looks" right! You'll need (4) of those o-rings. I had looked at a hose bib assembly (the whole thing) on Saturday and there were two o-rings on each nipple.

Sure you don't want to do it over the winter where you have plenty of time to do it? You could shrink wrap everything high - and "square off" the back end. Then put a zipper door in the wrap and you can get in and out of it all winter! I did that one year to my old Grady when it was time to cut out and rebuild the stringers and floors. I even had a little heater and a 4' shoplight hooked up in there!

Not that I'm pushing you, or anything... But it's a nice place to go and hide, sometimes, as well! :)
 
I hear ya but I don’t want to disturb anything with antifreeze over the winter. If changing the o-rings and reinstalling the cooler lines is easy enough, a drain won’t be that important. Access to the cooler lines isn’t awful.
 
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