Tow a 260DA with a 1/2 ton truck

1stSeaRay

1stSeaRay

New Member
Aug 25, 2008
375
Lake Lanier, GA
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boatless
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boatless
Anybody doing it? Have you killed a bus load of nuns on a steep mountain pass?

I made an offer on a 2004 yesterday.....wondering if I'll be replacing my tow vehicle as well (2WD Expedition)

My guess is yes, although the trailer is really beefy, with torsion axles and Electric over hydraulics discs on both axles.
 
You're easily going to be in the neighborhood of 9,500lbs. Don't forget that any weight you put in your truck, other than you, gets subtracted from your tow rating limit.

I would NOT recommend towing with your current rig. It's not so much about the engine. The tranny and rear end won't survive. Plus, that's A LOT of weight pushing on a 1/2 ton axle, frame and brake set-up if you had do an emergency stop and swerve maneuver.

I'd like to say you'd be OK - I know it's not a pleasant thought to not only be buying a boat, but also a new truck. Sorry. From reading your post, I'm guessing you already knew the answer, though?

Even if a 1/2 ton had a tow rating of 10,000lbs, there is no way that is safe.
 
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This is always a heated discussion. Try a search on it and you will see lots of answers. I towed a 240da with a 4wd 1500 with air bags and it was not fun. How far and often will you be towing? Good luck with your purchases.
 
Lazy Daze said:
that's A LOT of weight pushing on a 1/2 ton axle, frame and brake set-up if you had do an emergency stop and swerve maneuver.
Click to expand...

Stop and swerves are standard practice towing at Lake Mead NRA. 2 lanes, no shoulder, steep, narrow, and winding, then add bicycles.....you get the picture.
 
If you were towing short distances you would be fine. It also really depends on which model of Expedition you have. I'm currently towing my 270 with m 07 Expedition 4x2 which is rated at 9500 lbs. I tow short distances to my ramps so I'm not too worried about it. I've had to do some very sudden stops with no problems. I keep up on the trailer brakes and make sure they are working well and are rinsed after each use. If you're talking about towing in traffic, long distances, etc then you really are asking too much of the truck. I'm looking for an Excursion right now to replace the Expedition - had one and the deal fell through at the last minute.

So - I've owned a 99 Expedition which I towed a 24ft Sunnybrook travel trailer - upgrade to a 30ft and bought a 2003 Expedition. The lease ended and I got the current one. The new one has the 3valve 5.4 with the 6spd and is really a fantastic vehicle.
 
My expedition is an 05, I also have the 3 valve 5.4.

Reading this morning, it looks like there were 2 tow packages, standard and HD. HD includes larger radiator and oil cooler, plus a standard 7pin connector, but the actual hitch hardware is the same. Looks like I'd need a weight distributing hitch to get the 9500# capacity.

My current drive is 30 miles each way, and we get out about once a week. I could use a storage place closer to the lake and cut the drive in half.
 
Another part of the equation is your insurance. Even if you feel comfy with your set-up, you should make sure your insurance company does as well. Once you've had an accident with your rig, well, that's not the time to find your insurance company decides that what you're doing invalidates your insurance.

I towed a 1997 250DA with a 2004 V-8 Dakota. My insurance company assured me in writing I was covered. But we only towed in the midwest, and the mountains here have long gone.
 
everthing's irie said:
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Doesn't that defeat the surge brakes on a trailer? If you have electric brakes, not a problem but I was under the assumption (perhaps misguided) that WD hitches defeat surge brakes by greater than 50% of their stopping ability?:huh:
 
dpvandy01 said:
Doesn't that defeat the surge brakes on a trailer? If you have electric brakes, not a problem but I was under the assumption (perhaps misguided) that WD hitches defeat surge brakes by greater than 50% of their stopping ability?:huh:
Click to expand...

It depends.
 
IMHO - It has to do with the way it is setup. A standard WD hitch will not work, you need one setup for a surge brake system.
 
I have towed my 240da with a Chevy 2500HD 4X4 for five years. Short trips with flat ramps no problem. There were many times that if I didn't have 4 wheel drive I would have never recovered the boat on slippery or steep ramps. Longer trips...I wish I had a diesel 4X4. Summer temps are hard on the engine and drive train...Tom
 
Lazy Daze said:
You're easily going to be in the neighborhood of 9,500lbs. Don't forget that any weight you put in your truck, other than you, gets subtracted from your tow rating limit.

I would NOT recommend towing with your current rig. It's not so much about the engine. The tranny and rear end won't survive. Plus, that's A LOT of weight pushing on a 1/2 ton axle, frame and brake set-up if you had do an emergency stop and swerve maneuver.

I'd like to say you'd be OK - I know it's not a pleasant thought to not only be buying a boat, but also a new truck. Sorry. From reading your post, I'm guessing you already knew the answer, though?

Even if a 1/2 ton had a tow rating of 10,000lbs, there is no way that is safe.
Click to expand...

This comment makes no sense. Most of the time you suggest that a vehicles ratings should be followed but in this instance your saying it shouldn't.

I just looked in my 2006 Chev truck manual. I checked 3 trucks, 1/2T, 3/4T and 1T in both 2wd models and 4wd models. I also checked the 1T dually 4wd for a total of 7 trucks. All these trucks are crew cabs with gas 6.0. Which truck has the highest max trailer weight rating and which has the lowest? What's your guess?

A lot of emphasis is put on the tow vehicle and there should be, but comment like 'you can pull it but you can't stop it' bother me. These comments are usually made when folks feel the tow vehicle is a too lite for the job. Guys they're all too lite for the job when it comes to braking. They need some help. Where is the discussion on the trailer and it's brakes? A properly loaded trailer that isn't impaired by the lack of maintenance or $ is as important as the tow vehicle. Your tow vehicles brakes are not intended to be the sole means of stopping what they‘re capable of pulling. There has been discussion on upgrading tow vehicle brakes so it can stop on a dime(different thread) but the poor trailer sits there with rusted up drum brakes that no one has attempted to adjust since the day they got it.

Here is the answer to my tow rating question. The 1/2T and 3/4T 2wd have the max trailer weight rating 10,100#. The 1T dually 4wd has the least 9,200#.
 
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1stSeaRay:

Don't do it.

I also live in Vegas and recently bought an 07 260DA, I launch at Callville and Boulder Bay. Just too steep of hills, Too Hot, Too much traffic. Plus with the lake so low, the ramps are either pipe mat or even dirt.

I have a F350 Diesel 4x4 and I'm glad I don't have anything smaller - trust me.
 
Woody, I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. Are you saying that I suggested to not follow the ratings and it's OK to tow higher than the truck's limit? That is not what I wrote. Please expand what you're getting at.

My comment was meant as a general comment on 1/2 ton trucks. Truck companies have gotten in a "tow rating" pissing match over the last number of years. The point is, 10,000lbs is A LOT of weight - especially on a ball mount. Now add in the factor of only using a 1/2 ton truck with it's lighter duty frame/suspension/tranny, etc and you have an unsafe condition.

Yes, trailer brakes are important. But, the OP stated immediately that he had that part under control. Besides, the first hurdle to cross is the tow vehicle, then trailer brakes. Since the tow vehicle isn't up to the job, trailer brakes are a non-issue.
 
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