towing my 26 foot sundancer with a 2007 ford expedition... what do you think??

L

LakerMatt

New Member
Sep 9, 2013
30
Fresno, CA
Boat Info
1985 Searay Sundancer 260. TRYING to pull with a 2007 ford Expedition!!
Engines
Mercruiser 260 5.7 litre
Hi all. Just picked up a 1985 searay sundancer 260, and was wondering about my towing vehicle. I looked uo.the spec for this boat, and it says dry weight is 5150 lbs. I figure with the trailer i should be 6600 lbs?? My expedition is rated at a maximum 9200 lbs. You think i will be ok? The guy i bought this boat from put 8 lug axles on it with 12" drum brakes on all four wheels. Looking to run all electric braking system. I am just worried about if this ford can cut the mustard!!! Dont want to go look for a tow vehicle.... : (
 
Dry weights are usually 1500-2000 lbs less than scaled wet weights. Dry weights are the base boat with no batteries or fluids. Remember, pulling is usually not the issue, stopping is.

MM
 
Your best bet is to weigh it, My 250 ready to go to the lake is 7,600lbs - I think your estimate is light. My tandem trailer weighs 1,600 according to the specs.

LK
 
LakerMatt said:
Hi all. Just picked up a 1985 searay sundancer 260, and was wondering about my towing vehicle. I looked uo.the spec for this boat, and it says dry weight is 5150 lbs. I figure with the trailer i should be 6600 lbs?? My expedition is rated at a maximum 9200 lbs. You think i will be ok? The guy i bought this boat from put 8 lug axles on it with 12" drum brakes on all four wheels. Looking to run all electric braking system. I am just worried about if this ford can cut the mustard!!! Dont want to go look for a tow vehicle.... : (
Click to expand...

You should have no problem pulling it or with the load on the Expedition. Just take you time and remember to leave extra stopping distance. It sounds like the trailer is well equipped with electric brakes so the truck will not need to work as hard when stopping. :thumbsup:
 
There are government guide lines for maximum towing weight based on vehicle gvw here in Canada and I'm sure you'll find similar info in Ca. Try stopping in at your local commercial transport scale and ask one of the operators. They're usually very knowledgeable and have a ton of info at hand. Our '79 260 weighed 7200 pounds loaded and I think the trailer weighed about 1400 pounds. We towed it with a Chev 3/4 ton pickup and a 6 litre engine. Stopping was okay but we sure could have used more power when climbing the mountain passes.
 
I used to have a Four-Winns Fiesta Vee 258. Dry weight was 5,200. On the trailer, I extimated it was around 7,500 lbs. I always towed it, mostly because marina fees are absurd, and partly because when I used a marina, I was concerned about the state of the boat.

I USED to have (read: ex took it) a 2008 Ford Expedition EL, with the 5.4L and 4wd. That Expedition (same as your own 2007 - same generation) towed that boat very comfortably.

I would recommend learning how to shift into and out of 4-LO mode: it makes climbing the launch ramp MUCH easier with that weight. Just do not turn the wheels on dry pavement until you are darn sure you are back in AWD or 2-HI. I'd recommend AWD at all times while towing. But that truck is FULLY capable of doing what you ask. I know, because I've used that truck to do exactly what you are asking about. But there is one last thing, and it is important...:

The Last Thing: your receiver is only rated for about 5,000 lbs of towing capacity, regardless of the vehicle tow capacity. For safety's sake, use a Weight-Distributing hitch (I use the Equalizer http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ and I found mine, new, for about $350 on eBay). That hitch makes the difference between white-knuckling and a comfortable ride. With a WD hitch is the ONLY way you can use your full towing weight capacity. If you exceed the receiver capacity (5K lbs w/o the WD hitch), keep in mind that should you have an accident, your insurance company doesn't have to cover you because you exceeded the manufacturer's specs, and by a wide margin. Protect yourself and tow right. At all times, respect your tow. Know that losing control of it endangers not only you, but many people around you. Keep it slow (I'm 55 when towing, traffic behind me be damned) and keep it boring. Have your excitement on the water, not on the road.[/off-soap-box]
 
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Rixram summed it up pretty nicely. The Expedition will tow it just fine. Heck I tow my boat with a Ranger and it does fine. The weight of the boat is under the truck capacity. If I drive it I can even get it up the ramp w/o 4x4 but if a friend is driving I tell them to use 4 LO so they don't burn my tires. I will second his plug about the weight distributing hitch. Makes a world of difference.

If your truck came with the factory tow package all you need to do is buy (I have one I'd sell!) the plug for under the dash for the electric brake controller and the controller itself then you have brakes.
 
that is great news!! I was scared that this combo was not going to work. I do not have 4 wheel drive though, as someone else was mentioning... I will DEFINATELY look into the weight distributing hitch!! thanks guys! this site is really been helpful. I am really happy with my sea ray.
 
I towed the same boat from NJ to FL once behind a 84 GMC Jimmy and did fine, You should be good! WD Hitch makes a world of difference, too! Got mine from U-Haul, not too expensive and worked like a charm.
 
I was doing some searching on the equalizer hitch.... there is several different options for the weight range they sell. which one should I be looking at?? I am new to all this converting tongue weight/ towing weight stuff...
 
Rixram said:
I would recommend learning how to shift into and out of 4-LO mode: it makes climbing the launch ramp MUCH easier with that weight. Just do not turn the wheels on dry pavement until you are darn sure you are back in AWD or 2-HI.
Click to expand...

I usually use my Durango's 4-LO on steep wet ramps. I keep it in AWD until I'm in position to pull the boat out, and usually shift back to AWD once the entire load is on level ground.
But I'm curious about why you advise to not turn the wheels in 4LO, unless you meant while standing still. I don't see any harm in doing this while moving, but I'm open to being educated.
 
4-LO locks the differentials, so if you turn the wheel while driving on a solid surface you put a lot of strain on it because the wheels are turning at different rates. At least, that's what the manual to my Jeep says.
 
src said:
4-LO locks the differentials, so if you turn the wheel while driving on a solid surface you put a lot of strain on it because the wheels are turning at different rates. At least, that's what the manual to my Jeep says.
Click to expand...

You are 1/2 correct. When in 4 wheel drive (high or low), all tires attempt to turn the same speed. When you turn, the outer tires have to travel more ground while the inner tires travel less. The differentials aren't able to work properly since both front and rear are attempting to pull and push the vehicle. So, the tires will bind and slip to release this tension. It feels as if the truck is bucking and binding as you make sharp turns.

Believe it or not, you are safe doing this on most wet surfaces. You are also fine when in mud, sand, dirt, grass, etc... You just don't want to try it on clean/dry pavement. It puts too much of a bind on the drivetrain and can damage things (axles, differential gears, universal joints, and even the front/rear suspension components).

~Will Courtier~
 
You both are correct, but leave out the the transfer case additionally locks the front and rear differentials together compounding the binding. I always come up the ramp in 4lo but shift out as soon as I'm on the flat.

MM
 
MonacoMike said:
You cannot run this wd hitch setup until you have the braking you reference. It does not work with surge brakes. You still need to confirm your hitch is rated for your trailer weight with the wd system.

MM
Click to expand...
That isn't what the Equal-i-zer says about their hitches:huh:

Trailer Compatibility
All Trailer Types
The outstanding qualities of The Original Equal-i-zer® Sway Control hitch are being enjoyed by owners of all types of trailers. The Equal-i-zer hitch works with boat trailers, trailers with surge brakes, utility trailers, horse trailers, cargo haulers, pole (or single) tongue trailers, and many other trailer types

Features:
Unique design makes system compatible with surge-type brake actuators

Does the Equal-i-zer hitch work with hydraulic or surge brakes?
The Equal-i-zer hitch will work with most trailers equipped with surge brakes because the spring arms rest on rigid Sway Control Brackets, rather than being suspended by chains. The bars slide forward/backward while turning or braking, without the tendency to "spring" back into the straight position like bars hung from chains do. This allows the surge brake to be properly activated, instead of intermittently activating/deactivating the brakes, or not allowing enough compression to activate the surge brakes at all
 
I stand corrected, as far as manufacturer claims. Not sure I trust that but hope it works as advertised.

One big concern I have is the OP has a 2wd tow vehicle. On gently sloping ramps it will likely be fine if carefully managed. Surge brakes offer NO braking backing down the ramp and the OP will be near maximum capacity of the tow vehicle. If on a steep or slick ramp the margin of error is very small. Sfergson727 shot this a few weeks ago showing what can happen in the blink of an eye on a ramp.




MM
 
LakerMatt said:
that is great news!! I was scared that this combo was not going to work. I do not have 4 wheel drive though, as someone else was mentioning... I will DEFINATELY look into the weight distributing hitch!! thanks guys! this site is really been helpful. I am really happy with my sea ray.
Click to expand...

Just a few more thoughts on your set-up thinking about my experiences and entertainment at the boat ramps from the past.
First is the braking. I replaced my surge brakes with electric for a few hundred bucks complete - best change I could have made with the few long hauls we occasionally do. And like posted before it helps with braking in a reverse situation or stopped on a hill and especially when it's raining.
The other is the load equalizing hitch and two wheel drive. If using that type of hitch I would drop the load bars before using the ramp. That should help put weight back on the rear wheels and help with traction. Be sure to watch for slippery ramps with alga growth. Try to keep the rear wheels on clean cement and out of the water if possible but that does not always get you deep enough.
Take your time and don't let anyone rush you at the ramp, that's when problems arise.
Hook her up and head for the water - :thumbsup:
 
Wired2Cruze said:
I usually use my Durango's 4-LO on steep wet ramps. I keep it in AWD until I'm in position to pull the boat out, and usually shift back to AWD once the entire load is on level ground.
But I'm curious about why you advise to not turn the wheels in 4LO, unless you meant while standing still. I don't see any harm in doing this while moving, but I'm open to being educated.
Click to expand...


There is a big difference between AWD and 4-LO. In 4-Lo, the transfer case engages a multiplier (usually x2.71). It also locks the axle differentials out. If you turn the wheels, the inside and outside tires are trying to spin at different speeds, but cannot, because the hubs are locked and the differential is bypassed. Because the torque from the engine is being so massively multiplied, that if you are on dry pavement, it will snap the axle faster than you can say "Oh, That Sounded Bad".
AWD just sends power to the wheels, but the diffs function as usual, hence why you can drive on that mode all day long.
 
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