towing my 26 foot sundancer with a 2007 ford expedition... what do you think??

[Rixram]

You cannot run this wd hitch setup until you have the braking you reference. It does not work with surge brakes. You still need to confirm your hitch is rated for your trailer weight with the wd system.

MM

Monaco, that is not correct. You cannot run a chain based WD hitch, but the equalizer is designed with solid bars on sliding attachment points. It permits the surge brakes to function as usual. Electric brakes are not needed (and IMO, not advisible, since one is dunking them in water).

I've been running the 12K lb Equalizer hitch since 2006, have studied the design closely before buying and I confirm that it works perfectly well with surge brakes, and DOES NOT compromised surge brake operation in any way.

Your statement applies ONLY to chain-based WD hitches (typically found on RVs).

 

[Wired2Cruze]

There is a big difference between AWD and 4-LO. In 4-Lo, the transfer case engages a multiplier (usually x2.71). It also locks the axle differentials out. If you turn the wheels, the inside and outside tires are trying to spin at different speeds, but cannot, because the hubs are locked and the differential is bypassed. Because the torque from the engine is being so massively multiplied, that if you are on dry pavement, it will snap the axle faster than you can say "Oh, That Sounded Bad".
AWD just sends power to the wheels, but the diffs function as usual, hence why you can drive on that mode all day long.

Very good explanation, thank you!

 

[KC_Sundancer]

(and IMO, not advisible, since one is dunking them in water).

A note on electric brakes and dunking them:
The whole mechanism is much simpler that hydraulic and operated by a simple electro-magnetic force.
No cylinders, sleeves or brake lines to corrode and bind-up and no fluid.
I had put over 150,000 miles all over the east half of the country using and maintaining surge brakes. Since switching to electric, trailer maintenance and repair has been reduced substantially.
Towing has been much more relaxed too, having better control of the trailer regardless of the road conditions. Just my experience :huh:

 

[LakerMatt]

wow... I am amazed at all the knowledge, experience, and advice... thank you very much guys! the braking system on this trailer is already set up for electric brakes, so all I need to buy is the controller for inside the cab. my expedition already has the plug ins underneath the dash ready to go. as I stated, these are 8 lug axles with 12" drum brakes. the previous owner said that with 4 wheel braking in the trailer with these 12" brakes, that this would literally stop the boat and the expedition if need be. (don't know the truth of that yet). I have seen and heard instances of the tuck slipping into the water... not good, and my biggest fear. if this gets anywhere close to that happening, I will look into a 3/4 tow vehicle. I have dreams of my family cruising the bay someday... but I don't want my expedition going with me too!! LOL

 

[MonacoMike]

I stand corrected, as far as manufacturer claims. Not sure I trust that but hope it works as advertised.




MM

Monaco, that is not correct. You cannot run a chain based WD hitch, but the equalizer is designed with solid bars on sliding attachment points. It permits the surge brakes to function as usual. Electric brakes are not needed (and IMO, not advisible, since one is dunking them in water).

I've been running the 12K lb Equalizer hitch since 2006, have studied the design closely before buying and I confirm that it works perfectly well with surge brakes, and DOES NOT compromised surge brake operation in any way.

Your statement applies ONLY to chain-based WD hitches (typically found on RVs).

I have already noted my comments did not apply to the linked WD after Woody pointed it out. I'm glad it works for you but surge brakes already suck and to add WD to them is is still another binding point. With all the benefits of electric brakes I suggest it a great upgrade, Electric over hydraulic is the best of both worlds.

MM

 

[Rixram]

Very good explanation, thank you!

My pleasure!

 

[Rixram]

I have already noted my comments did not apply to the linked WD after Woody pointed it out. I'm glad it works for you but surge brakes already suck and to add WD to them is is still another binding point. With all the benefits of electric brakes I suggest it a great upgrade, Electric over hydraulic is the best of both worlds.

MM

I appreciate that you have an opinion about surge brakes. The WD hitch I commented on also incorporates a sway control aspect as well, further increasing control. For you, MM, it sounds like the ideal setup would be the Equalizer + Electric brakes. I boat in salt water, and am very reluctant to immerse electrical connections in salt water. Heck, I got salt water on my plug once, and that was enough of a problem, much less immersing it. It created a short from ther 15 amp pin to the lights, killing the battery and creating some arcing as well. Not a pleasant discovery after a weekend on the water.

 

[Rixram]

wow... I am amazed at all the knowledge, experience, and advice... thank you very much guys! the braking system on this trailer is already set up for electric brakes, so all I need to buy is the controller for inside the cab. my expedition already has the plug ins underneath the dash ready to go. as I stated, these are 8 lug axles with 12" drum brakes. the previous owner said that with 4 wheel braking in the trailer with these 12" brakes, that this would literally stop the boat and the expedition if need be. (don't know the truth of that yet). I have seen and heard instances of the tuck slipping into the water... not good, and my biggest fear. if this gets anywhere close to that happening, I will look into a 3/4 tow vehicle. I have dreams of my family cruising the bay someday... but I don't want my expedition going with me too!! LOL

Before using the ramp, I strongly encourage you walk down there, and look for any problems. by problems, I mean anything that will compromise your 2WD traction. Since you're only running power to the rear wheels, and those are the wheels that are most likely to encounter algae, sand or other traction reducing materials, take a good look and be darn sure what you are about to step into. I recommend also having a tow strap, maybe 20', and carry something to help with traction. My biggest concern would be algae growing at the ramp bottom.

Not to scare you, but with the 2WD, you'll be using a bootfull of throttle to climb up that ramp with that much tow behind you. Do not defer on your tow vehicle maintenance. Ensure you have GOOD tread on those tires. Be patient, and don't let others rush you (which someone did state).

FYI: Murphy's law dictates that there will be some arrogant SOB criticizing you at least once. For me, it was the first time I tried that rig out (mentioned in my original response). I had some 60+ y.o. guy walk up to me, "I'hve been fishin' heah foh fowtah yeers, and I'hve nevah seen annah-one pull a boat that big outta heah, and nevah wit a trook dat small." My response, "Well, enjoy the show." My tow vehicle at the time was Gen-1 Dodge Durango. And despite that my trailer winch webbing snapped, I pulled the boat just fine. He didn't have any further wise-assed remarks. Don't bother explaining, just do what ya need to do.

Can anyone else add to recommendations for him?

 

[keokie]

FWIW, I have a lot of experience towing and will add my two cents:

The sliding type equalizer does not work well with surge brakes. I have used both the 10K and 14K set ups. Simply put, while it does slide somewhat, any significant tension on the spring bars (which is required to work) creates a lot of friction and noticeably reduces performance.

I have used all forms of brake systems. I prefer straight electric for their effectiveness, simplicity, and reliability. They hold up beautifully in freshwater, and I have used them some in salt, without problem.

Finally, on a 12 inch eight lug set up, the brakes come in a 5K per axle and 7K per axle set up. The only difference is the magnet, everything else is the same. Performance with the 7K brakes is significantly stronger than the 5K.

If it were me, I would use a 10K Equal-i-zer set up with 7K electric brakes, 10 ply bias light truck tires on the trailer, and radial E rated tires on the truck.

 

[boltman]

Don't worry the truck in the water is a GMC hahaha can't handle weight , be art as we did chock your tires with rubber chocka , I trailered a 420 and never once put it in the water with a sliding truck BTW had a goose neck trailer to but it's much bigger boat .
Expeditions don't like tongue weight , but you should be ok with this rig , not sure I'd do the weight distributing hitch at all though